lowrider

I ran into major funding issues with my board/club as well. To get past that, and hopefully run it flat instead of at a loss, i instituted a pay site arrangement, with 2 levels of subscription service. A web-only membership costs $15 per year, you get more hosting/uploading space on the site, access to a private board, you can change your member title, can go in on group buys from my supporting vendors, and are allowed to post FOR SALE ads. (the biggest reason people buy a membership) A 'premium membership' costs $35 per year, you get all of the above, plus a discount card for the supporting vendors, 2 decals, a shirt, and discounts at a local mitsubishi dealership for parts. Since i've instituted this i've almost recouped all my losses since i took over this board. The way it works for payment is people pay the site or a paypal account. The money goes on a credit card that is set up as "calgary DSM". I and a couple others have signed authority. The hosting charges, forum licencing, etc, all come off that card. People who want to buy extra tshirts and stuff do so ultitlizing the same CC#. Any extra monies at the end of the year go into a 'slush fund' that will be used for track days, dyno sessions, BBQs, etc. My supporting vendors pay to use the site as advertising, and i've given each of them their own forum and moderator power within to sell their goods. Good luck, guys, this is only a suggestion, and i'm not the only board that's done this. http://www.4wheeler.ca -- Brian, the main admin, a good friend of mine, instituted a similar 'supporting member' status $25 per year gives you access to the for sale sections and to a private board. Just my .02.

Yup. You will need: Some wood, super T, 3" PVC pipe, grille cloth, fiberglass resin, Fibreglass, bondo, a massive amount of sanding, access to a paint booth, more sanding, lots of patience. They are great, and to my knowledge, i have the only WD21 with factory appearing cup holders. good luck.

I did this mod too. Had a bunch of ladies complaining they couldn't see anything when they'd get in my truck. Took apart the dome light and mounted 12 hiper white LEDs in it. Then put 4 of the same LEDS in each footwell. Built a small bracket to hold them up and out of the way, so you only see the light, not the source. Also installed a toggle switch on the dash to turn all the interior lights on at once, including the footwell lighting, my pathy didn't have a dash mounted switch to turn them all on.

It shouldn't. my tcase stick doesn't come near it in 4 low. I don't know about with a body lift, but it should be fine, IMHO. sorry about the big pics, dial up guys

you know what you need man? cupholders.

Merry Christmas, Happy Hannukah, Thrilling Kwanza, Wonderful Winter Solstice, a Tip Top Tet, and a solemn and dignified Ramadan. Oh and enjoy your festivus!

you shorted out the parking light wire that's behind the stock deck. pull the deck out again, locate the parking light wire and ensure the insulation isn't torn or frayed in any way. Make sure the connection between the parking light wire and the new deck is secure and properly crimped if you used a butt connector or soldered properly. Replacing the fuse will fix it until that wire touches something again.

My locked up rear drives like a spool. Parking lots suck, but other than that, i really don't mind driving with it at all. Took about a week to get used to, but it's fantastic. I wouldn't trade back to a regular LSD ever again. Its a cheap, easy thing to do and makes a WORLD of difference on the trail.

i used to have the chrome's on my xe. i hated the offset. Went to toyota sr5 aluminum rims and i think they look great on the pathy, good aggresive offset, and they're pretty light. oh yeah, and they're everywhere and they're uber cheap. Just my .02

What small town in Salem?, i may know of it. I grew up in NJ (scotch plains), but now live far, far from home in western canada. Should we bore the rest of the board with tales of the garden state?

Ok, i have a dumb question after reading this thread. Is Nissan liable to replace the tranny cases like a recall? or is this just the correct repair procedure so they can rape you after your tranny breaks? My tranny is whiney as hell, and i've kinda ignored it for the most part, one of the guys told me to swap my fluid ASAP, and i've been too busy. That's really no excuse. This is sunday's project, but i can't seem to find anyone who stocks MT90 locally. One question: would it be useful to just top up the tranny with a quart or two (or whatever it'll take) of dino oil until i get the red line? i really cannot afford to pop a tranny, be down a truck and be out the money for a replacement tranny.

Umm....i would either keep the 'poor mans spool' moniker or 'converting your stock LSD to a pseudo-spool' or something like that.

Well, just a little update. When we slid the drivers side axle back in, we broke the outer axle seal. Took a couple days and a wheeling trip to notice the gear oil, took it to nissan and had it replaced (so far the only thing i've had done to the truck by a mech.) cost $150 cdn. My truck has 340,000 kms on it, so it was just a matter of time before i blew a seal. Winter driving is fine, i don't have 4wd right now (casuality of the trail taking out a cv axle combined with zero free time till jan) and it's fine, the roads here were an icey, sketchy mess for 2 weeks this month, and i had no issues. When you get it sideways on snow and ice, it's way easier to hold it in a drift, and you don't get that one outside wheel spinning away and turning the truck around and around. Trail: FAWKIN AWESOME. one wheel Waaaay up in the air, and both spin, you can now get out of way more than you would be able to with a stock LSD. I added the slipping agent a couple weeks ago and it made around town driveability much easier to deal with. This is a mod that i would definitely do again. I love it.

You're driving a 91 four door, right? The crappy ass stock 4" in the 6.5 mounting plates do suck, you're absolutely right. You can fit just about any 6" or 6.5" speaker, when i did mine, i simply took out the speaker, the pod that it's in in the door, and it interfered with the power window operation. No big deal. Took the trim rings that came with the speakers, flipped them around and voila! they're spaced out properly, fit fine, don't interfere with the window operation or door panel fitment. Also, take that crappy felt out of the door panels thats stuck behind the factory grilles. You'll get alot more response out of them that way. Good luck.

The wattage of an amplifier obivously has a direct correlation to the amount of current it draws, the power drawn is proportional to signal amplitude on an exponential curve. If you take the bottom of the case off, you should be able to read right on the circuit board the fuse size it needs. It'll be stamped with '15A' or something like that depending on the size. The recommended fusing size of car audio amps generally follow a 1.45:1 ratio. Therefore, a 100W amp, the maximum current it will draw is 14.5A. Since there is no such thing as a 14.5A fuse, it'll have a 15A fuse, so on and so forth as the wattage increases, the current draw follows the same scale. In that example, the current draw is measured BEFORE the amplifier starts to clip. A bridged load on a A/B amplifier will clip at a lower volume than a stereo load on the same amp or a <2 ohm load on a true 'D' path amp, bridging a class A/B amp to a 4 ohm split load (the amp will see 2 ohms) creates undue heat, which the amplifier loses by clipping and distorting, and in turn, draws more current to run (think about how hard your truck works up a hill on a hot day) and will thereby pop a fuse. When the amplifier is 'resting' or turned on but no volume is present, it should not draw more than 1A. Measure that with a multimeter. Also, it never hurts to overwire. Remember how long the run of wire is from your battery ALL the way to the back where your amp is. If you're running 10AGU, rip it out and put 8AGU in, or preferably, if you can afford it, too, do a single run of 4AGU, then you'll be set if you ever upgrade or add a 4 channel to run your speakers. Hope this helps.

Hi Kari where in new jersey are you? Nice truck, btw

I'm so flattered....

counter steering is your friend. I have 2wd only right now, a locker and mud tires with 50% tread and a manual tranny. You can imagine how sketchy my pathy is especially considering how much ice we get here. So far so good this year, my best advice is stick it in 2wd, go find a parking lot (without poles) and learn how to drive your truck sideways. I wouldn't hang it out sideways at 80 mph, but it will help you get your confidence for aroudn town driving. You'll soon find it's super fun to drive like that, and the trucks are so balanced and predictable you're once you get used to it, you're not gonna feel outta control, they're very easy to hold at the limit, and get back if it oversteers too much. I think i put the truck in 4wd twice last year over the whole winter. Bottom line is these trucks are very predictable to drive in the winter, just a matter of getting used to it. Good luck.

As per my first post --- Perhaps somehow a bunch of ice got lodged in the cowl vents, but i would think that would just cause the heater to not blow as hard with a blockage and would theoretically blow heat on recirc which it didn't either. I'll try bleeding the air out like you said, Kevin, i hadn't thought of that. This is the first time it's happened, so hopefully was just a fluke thing. I'll have to remember to put it in timer mode, then it'll idle for 5 mins every 2 hours and hopefully not get so damn cold. Thanks for the quick feedback, fellas.

Will that make a difference in what happened today, Kev? Not that i'm questioning your method, but since it got up to normal op. temperature fine, wouldn't have still blown cold air regardless? Thank god it's going to be 11C (50F) on Friday.... -bounce-

From the latest round of disco potato related wildness. Last night it dipped down to -25C or -15F. FAWKIN COLD!!!! I got home abnormally early yesterday at seven, shut the truck off and didn't start it again until this morning, via the remote, at around 7 (i was running quite late). Ran for 10 mins with the remote start, hop in and it's still blowing hella cold air. No big deal, temp gauge hasn't moved at all, figure i'll have heat by the time i get to the highway. Get to the highway, it's at about a quarter of the way on the temp guage, no heat. COLD air is blowing out, no matter which vents i swtich it to. The temp gauge climbs to normal operating temperature and stays there, still blows cold. At this point, i'm going about 120 kph (70 mph) and nothing, nothing, nothing, just cold air. There is a very strange noise coming from the cowling area, like a crunching noise, its hard to describe. I get to 16th Ave, which is about 20 mins into my commute, and finally hit the fan switch again, and have heat. That was an hour and a half ago and i still have limited feeling in my feet and toes. Anyone have this happen before? I would like to figure it out so as to prevent that kind of commute again, but i have no idea what happened? Perhaps somehow a bunch of ice got lodged in the cowl vents, but i would think that would just cause the heater to not blow as hard with a blockage and would theoretically blow heat on recirc which it didn't either. Any thoughts?

i did replace just the solenoid in mine the first time it went and it was ok for about a month, then same thing. I think it was a dead spot in the starter. For the $110, i would just do the whole thing, you'll get a warranty and you'll be good to go. glad we could help. how to replace the starter --- http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6407&hl=

VW, This seems to be a common problem with pathy starters. Myself, and tow other guys in our club have had the same issue. It appears that when the starter decides to finally go, this is the exact symptom it will have. Hit the key, and nothing. Mine gave me issues for the last month or so, it would occasionally do it, if you left the key on for about 10 secs, or hit the starter with a hammer, it would fire up. Monday morning, no dice. Bought a starter, threw it in and it's fine. Same thing with the other guys and their pathy's. A couple easy ways to check the starter....unplug the solenoid wire and stick a voltmeter on the truck side. Have your wife crank it and see what it reads. It should be getting voltage, if it is and it won't start, it's the solenoid. If it's not gettting enough voltage, it won't engage the solenoid, you can wire up a simple relay to ensure its getting max. voltage (ask me how if that's the case) Is it a stick or auto? You can jumper out the clutch safety if its a stick and eliminate that too. Last case, crack the starter with a hammer (you'll need a broomstick or something to put on the solenoid) and then see if it starts. My money's on you needing a new starter. I posted a writeup a while ago on how to replace it, the first time i did it wrong, but when i put that new one in on monday, executing proper procedure, it took less than half an hour. Just my .02, for what its worth Good luck.

3/4 oz. of galliano 3/4 oz. of gin over ice add club soda till full add lime wedge YUM!

a much easier thing to do which i did for a client. get a waterproof backup camera. Have someone flush it into the left side mirror housing. get a small (3.5") screen and flush it into the center vent Presto, now you can see out that side, turn left and pass that dump truck without spending a fawkin arm and a leg converting it to LHD