lowrider

Thanks slick, but i think the shipping charges to calgary would kill me. Looks like possibly an old school DSM-style head job on a budget

It was idling when it happened. I cranked it somewhere in the neighborhood of 200 more times trying to find the other issues. There are definitely bent valves, you can hear/feel them. I may try and slap on a new belt tonight and start it and see if it runs or not. But i doubt it will. No idea how many km's were on that belt, i checked it in sept. and noticed it had (my own ballpark) another 20k left in it. But wheeling, etc, getting all kinds of crap in there, not surprising it went earlier. Now i have to decide what to do. I was planning on selling the truck in late april to buy my roomates Montero. However, i can't get much for it with a blown t belt and the laundry list of other things that need attention. So, suck it up and fix it? Or send it to pick n pull? It was always "i'm going to do the belt and water pump after i do..." since sept. Everybody, this weekend, pull the upper timing cover off and check your belts, and remind me never to buy anything with an interference head design ever again.

Well, well, well........transistor's fine. Coil's fine. Fuel's Fine. Hey, wait a minute...the distributor doesn't turn..... Timing belt is not fine..... :sniff:

Thanks Simon, i'll check it out. The aftermarket coil i bought doesn't come with the power transistor, so i'll have to buy a coil from satan if that's the issue, as the nissan ones come with it. Partsource doesn't list the power transistor at all.

so should that magic grey box have voltage going into it? how did you fix yours? someone from the calgary nissan 4x4 board suggested the timing belt may have skipped a tooth. he had the exact same problem and that turned out to be the culprit.

Thanks Simon I'll check that tomorrow after work when i go visit my truck, i'm going to owe you a cold one after all this advice in this thread.

New coil. no start. f *ck sakes.

Coil is dead. Anyone in the calgary area have one for sale?

It's in Calgary at the Bull and Finch (southland and elbow) Stupid eli question ---- how do i run codes?

Yes, the engine turns, but won't fire up. The clicking is coming from the fuel lines. I had the same starter issue, and replaced mine in Nov, never had a problem with the starter since.

see, it was only about -13C last night (9F) and it was about the same temp. this am. Last week got down to -38C (-36F) with the windchill and no issues (other than the rad...grr...) My fingers are crossed. thanks simon.

I'm thinking frozen gas too (and hoping for it). I'm going to where the truck's parked after work to see if it'll fire up. If not, tow strap tow to my buddy's stereo shop and leave it parked indoors for a few hours to hopefully thaw out. Maybe the fuel rail is frozen? and the clicking is the injectors trying to cycle, sending signal to the ecu, attempting to juice the coil, sending a false signal to the tach?.........unlikely.

i should've put that in the first post. with the key 'on' the pump will whine. after some time under crank, the tach will shoot to 4000 then down to 1000 even though it's not running. leaving the key on once the tach shows 1000 is when the underhood clicking starts.

I'm not going to do my usual long winded post, cuz i'm way too pissed off right now. Get fuel last night ($10 of cheap @!*%e, that was all that was close) Go to the pub. It's cold outside, but not stupid cold. Remote start the truck from inside when it's time to go, pages back to the remote that the truck started, then shuts down. Go outside, truck won't start with the key. Assume it ran out of gas or the lines froze. Added 5 gal of gas and 2 bottles of gas line antifreeze. Still won't fire up but i can hear a 'clicking' from under the hood and can feel the fuel lines pulsing. My truck is still in the parking lot, as i had to go to work this morning. Fuel pump shot? How hard is it to do, it's in the tank i think, but is there separate access through the truck or do you have to drop the tank? Any other suggestions? this happened not six days after my rad froze and left me stranded on the side of the road in -40C weather for 2 hours. :help:

where are you tmorgan? i have my stock springs still, you're more than welcome to them. and i'll have an extra set of lower spring perches shortly.

meh...i've seen better. *paging mookie* seriously, any SAS'ed pathy is sweet!

The absolute best mod i've made to my truck, and anyone else with the same i'm sure will agree with me...is the addition of a traction aid in the rear. I did a poor mans spool (see my post) but there's air and elec. lockers avail. and full time drop in lockers. Over tires, lift, and everything else that's done to my truck, it's made the most amount of difference. I snapped an cv shaft on a pretty hard trail shortly after i did it, and had no problems finishing the rest of the run in 2lo with the rear locked, where guys with open diffs and worn lsd's were stuck all over the place. Just my .02.

do a 'poor mans' charge test....i've done it many a time on the side of the road beofre smacking my alt. with a hammer to get me home. Start the truck. While it's running, disconnect the positive lead on the battery, be careful not to touch it to metal. If the truck dies, the alternator isn't charging. If it stays running, you are good to go. Good luck. post results. I'm on Alternator number 2.5 right now, so i feel your charging pain. You can clean out the alternator too, i do this every time i change my oil. Take the alternator off, carefully take it apart, clean everything out, rinse with tons of water, regrease the bearings and brushes. Every since i started doing this, i have had no charging issues (as opposed to smacking my brand new alternators with said hammer many times on the side of the road, always goes over well while you're on a date, lol)

cool. welcome aboard

hey 88, do you remember what year of truck those shocks are for?

I kinda forgot about that...good bug out for the pathy...and hopefully i won't be in the same state as i was at the rally on Nov. 6th :oops: BTW, did you ever post the recovery pics from that rally?

I wanna go wheeling!!!!!!!!!! I wheeled/camped every weekend from august to mid-october, then got a second job, then quit the second job and got sick....no time to fix my truck, no time to wheel...total BS! Feb's a pretty busy month for me, but i should be able to get everything done to the truck and then go hit the trail.

Ok, so i've spent the last two hours ignoring my girlfriend and trying to figure out what shocks to get that will allow for more travel while still bolting up properly and without spending an arm and a leg. I have 2"-3" of poormans lift (tbars and ford coils). I had a parts truck a while ago that had RS5000's on it. I compared them to the stock shocks and struts and they had exactly the same travel, and the same uncompressed and compressed dimensions. The recommended 9000X rancho's for the pathfinder have LESS travel than stockers/5000's I stole a bunch of info off rancho's site and came up with this: Stock pathy rear shocks: 14" Compressed 22.250" Uncompressed 8.250" Total Travel Stock 93-98 Toyota T100 4WD Rear shocks 14.875" Compressed 24" Uncompressed 9.125" Total travel Not bad, almost an extra inch of travel Stock 72-93 Dodge D100, D150 2wd 1/2 Ton pickup rears 15" Compressed 23.750" Uncompressed 8.750" Total Travel An extra 1/2" of Travel Stock 87-91 V3500 Chevy 1 ton 4wd pickup rears: 16" Compressed 26.250" Uncompressed 10.250" Total Travel 2"! will they fit? 1961-1971 Dodge 2wd 1 ton Fronts are: 15.375" Compressed 24.250" Uncompressed 8.875" Total Travel As far as the fronts (this is proving more difficult to find something longer travel) Stock: 9.7000" Compressed 14.990" Uncompressed 5.290" Total Travel I can't find something with the same mounting and longer travel. Any help would be appriciated!!! and yes i did a search first, and came up with nothing.

The ECU's underneath the passenger seat, just fyi. and yes, simply unplug the old one and plug the new one in (and make sure it's the same tranny like simon said)

I've had bronchitis for the last couple weeks and its seriously hindered my ability to work on the truck. Finally started feeling better and last night did the following: Changed oil Installed steering stabilizer Swapped tranny fluid for MT90 Cranked drivers side t bar (was sagging a little) Topped up rear diff (don't ask) Bled and refilled clutch cleaned throttle body cleaned MAS cleaned K&n filter A great start to what i need to do before march. Next on the list: Finish custom (and uber cool) rear bumper (pics to come) replace rear axle housing, axles, and brakes Passenger side CV shaft Repack front bearings Timing belt and water pump Then, it's back to fun stuff! Thanks to all the threads on here, and my buddy johnny's nissan expertise, stage one only took about 2 hours last night (including beer breaks) i love my truck again -bounce-