dududuckling

Are you getting the 35W or 55W ballast? I've the 55W, 6000K HB2/9003 Hi Lo. The high beam is halogen and its really useless. You can't see anything with it. Knowing HID is way brighter than halogen, I aimed mine slightly downward and I can still see better than having a regular halogen aimed properly. The beam pattern is wider and further. I've never gotten flashed from anyone or been in trouble with the cops in both Canada and the States. I'm thinking of switching to 8000K. Having 6000K and mud stains in the headlight give you brown HID (no more nice white light). You won't notice with halogen, but you'll see the difference with HID. And when it comes to HID, I believe its all personal preference.

That bumper looks real good! Nice work! I like how you still got a good approach angle.

I normally lean on the glass handle and push it real hard until I hear the click sound... then I know that its locked and the glass hatch can't swing open anymore

If the rear glass is not shut tight, the door light comes on, even when the rest of the doors are shut and locked. Tried this when I transported my table and had to open the rear glass in order to fit it in...

That is brighter than my PIAA520s!!! And I like the cut offs!!!

Regarding the backspacing, the lesser the number, the more the wheel will stick out and so does the tire. So 3.75" backspacing will stick out more than a 4.5" wheel, and a 4.5" backspacing will stick out more than the stock wheel. AC says that minimum of 3.75" is required; ideally they want you to get 3.75" backspacing or lower, so your tire will clear the struts for sure. With the R50, the thing to keep in mind when upsizing tires will be tire-to-strut clearance. With the stock wheel, if I'm not mistaken, approximately 0.5" of the tire is right under the strut. Its not a big deal if you keep the tire size stock, which is 30". But as you go up to 32's or 33's, the tires will rub the struts. I personally think that you might still need wheel spacer if you get the 4.5" backspace wheel. But I don't think you'll need any with 3.5" backspace wheels or lower (correct me if I'm wrong). You can always go with stock rims and use spacers up front, then stuff 33's like 01silvapathy. There are lotsa options, just remember that you want about 4" or less backspacing, so the tires will stick out more and clear the strut and you're good to go... but not way out that you can't turn or the rear tires hit the fender flares when flexed.

It could be that the new bases weren't good. When you reinsert the original bulb, did you use the new or the old base? I used the old bases for all the LEDs. And you'll need 4 LEDs to cover the cluster. Someone might have their input here? Here's some readings if you haven't come across them: http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-replace-instrument-cluster-lamps-t461756.html http://forums.nicoclub.com/changed-the-dash-lights-t368004.html http://forums.nicoclub.com/almost-completed-01-pathfinder-stereo-upgrade-includes-avic-z2-t350117.html

Were you trying to change the warning lights in the cluster or simply the background speedo? I managed to change the background light (around 4 bulbs, if I'm not mistaken), but things got messed up and weren't successful when trying to replace the warning lights into LEDs. Did you get the right LEDs? I think its #74, if I'm not mistaken. Did you damage the base while changing into the LED bulb? When you put the stock bulb into the base, does it come loose? Did you damage the original bulb while removing it? I crushed a couple of bulb while removing it from the base. Can you try inserting a different base with working bulb into the same slot to make sure its the base that's damaged and not the slot? Be sure to have the pathy turned off when replacing the bulbs. I read on NICO forum that some guy tried to replace it and the cluster went smoking. Just my suggestions,

Year: 2000 SE Lift : AC 2" coils Wheels : Stock OEM wheels 16x7" (no wheel adapter) Tires : Michelin X-Ice 265/70/16 for winter and BFG KM2 255/75/16 for summer Notes: For both winter and summer setups, there's no rubbing on struts or inner wheel well when turning at full lock or bouncing at any angle. I had the BFGs before I installed the lift and ARB bumper, that's why they were that small and no rubbing either.

I think he's got 1.5" spacer as well for the front, the rear is stock

Yep, its the GL4 for sure. Adam, what you said is true. The vehicle has to be COMPLETELY stopped before I can shift to the first gear. Even then, there are two possibilities that might happen. Firstly, the lever might not go into the first gear and I'm guessing the teeth in the transmission didn't align properly. In this case, I've to bring it back to neutral, let go and re-depress the clutch fully, then shift it back to the first gear or sometime I just start from the second gear before getting honked at. Secondly, the lever might go to the first gear, grind, and kick back to neutral. In this case, I just hit the clutch a little longer (count to one thousand), then bring it back to the first gear or sometime just start from the second gear again. The probability of both scenarios happening is less than 10% - used to happen more often in the past, I guess I've changed my driving habit. I haven't checked any of the clutch/trans fluid level. I'll bring it to Nissan in the spring and get the fluids replaced and checked for leakage since I don't have the skill nor the space to do it right now.

Crap!!! Last time I replaced the fluid was when I replaced the clutch and the transmission at 132,000 miles. Gonna do it again when spring comes. I'm hoping there's still warranty since I got them brand new from Nissan. Now that I'm used to the condition, I just hit the clutch early before the light turns green and keep the cabin pressure to make sure the smell doesn't get inside (Close the vent and turn on the a/c or heater and let the air recirculate within the cabin). I don't know what I did wrong, I don't even ride on the clutch or down-shift unless I really have to - hate doing the leg workout unnecessarily, hahaha... And I've only seen a couple of trails since got them brand new.

Replaced the outer release bearing (I think that's what Nissan said) at 100,000 miles. Replaced the transmission at 137,000 miles and now it starts to give me problems again a 162,000 miles. Not sure if its the clutch/transmission. When I shift from neutral to the first gear, I've to fully depress the clutch and count up to 1 sec. before shifting the lever, otherwise it'll grind and jerk back to neutral. And then comes the smell of burning oil in the cabin when the transmission works hard (I.e. on a hot sunny day in traffic or after being on the highway for an hour). There's no leak at all. I probably have to get the trans fluid changed or just wheel an A/T.

Did a little search and came across this http://www.ramsey.com/automotive/docs/Grille%20Guard%20Brush%20Guard%20update.pdf http://www.ramsey.com/automotive/mounting_systems.html They probably mounted a universal brush guard on the pathy with a winch on it.

Same thing goes on mine. There's one occasion when I started the pathy, the dial for the rear wiper was in off position, but for some reason, it was going at full speed - scared the crap out of me. And it would occasionally get stuck when the weather's cold. Had to switch the dial a couple of time to bring it back to its original position, otherwise it'd get stuck in the window.

This is what I can dig out from my desktop. I had the air intake rerouted so that it sucked air from the back of the air box instead of the bottom, but everything else under the hood remained untouched. If you need more pictures, I can always take a good one tomorrow morning when the sun's up. I'm not sure if its what you're looking for. Hope it helps.

x2 on what Pezzy said. I was happy that my hitch hit the rocks than if it was my plastic bumper. I've used the hitch to do a recovery and I think it works great.

Got the fog's HID from China for $50 incl. shipping and headlight's HID from a HID shop online for $150. The results are the same. Both items are plug and play

I'm most likely to be the guy that Simon wanna fire up his off-road lights on, hahaha... I installed HIDs on the headlights and fog lights. The headlights have a 55W, 6000K, Hi/Lo (High beam halogen, low beam hid in a single bulb), H4 bulb. The fog lights have a 35W, 8000K, H3 bulb. I didn't modify the headlights and fog lights. They contain factory halogen reflectors,. The HID produces a lot of glare towards oncoming drivers. When you install HIDs on normal halogen housings, you'll see two bright spots (the aim from the left and right bulbs) and another bright spot where the glares intersect. The halogen housings are meant to spread the halogen beams that are dimmer than Xenon. While you might blind the oncoming drivers, the glare that bounces off enable you to see road signs and road side more clearly. The HIDs are better suited for projector housings that have cut offs (little to no glare at all above the cut off). You don't piss anyone off and will be able to see the road very clearly as all the beams are focused on the road. But you won't be able to see the signs, etc as brightly. My fix to this problem is to aim the lights real low - lower than usual especially since the pathy has a higher stance than most sedan. I've driven right behind cops and around the street with the HIDs for the past one year or so. In my opinion, with all the reflected glares that bounce off the road (since the beams are focused real low), you'll still be able to see farther and wider than the halogen lights. As well, after hitting a couple of trails and have mud stains in my headlights, the beams are light brown instead of cool white, hahaha... One problem I've encountered with the HIDs are that it requires ballasts. The conversion is not always perfect and when I turn the lights on, 99% of the time, one of the lights will not light up. I've to turn it on and off a couple of times or use the high beams for a bit and switch it back to low beam, then the HIDs will kick in. My friends who install HIDs in their vehicles also encounter the same problem, even after using the relays. Its no big deal if you're in the parking lot, but on the road, I'll be looking for reflections off someone's rear bumper. And you might have electrical connections when you hit mudholes (i.e. my fog lights). They short circuit themselves after a deep water crossing. The bulbs aren't burnt and they are still working. But once I turn them off, they will not light up until I turn them on couple hours later. Hope that helps, Andrew

Hi, if u look closely behind the headlight, u see two circular items that look like an old-school coke bottle cap. They are low profile, so its kinda hard to spot from the top. Those things are mounted vertically, which means they are parallel to the radiator and perpendicular to the ground. Anyway, you'll need a long and thin phillips screwdriver of some sort to rotate it. One of the "bottle cap" is for vertical adjustment (up or down) and the other one is for horizontal adjustment (left or right). For the up or down, if u turn clockwise, ull go up and anti-clockwise to go down. I don't remember about the horizontal adjustment though. I'll take pics. later today to clarify things.

If you want really good lighting, you can always get HID conversion kit from ebay, cheap stuff and made in china, lol... 55W/H4/Hi-lo/6000K bulb is all you need. I'm not sure if its legal in your state. I aim the light lower so it doesn't blind the oncoming traffic. Even though the focus of the lights will then be about 20m in front of you (you'll see two bright patches of light on the road), the overall result is still brighter and shines further than a stock halogen setup. Depending on your budget, you can even retrofit the headlight housing with projector setup that goes well with HID and doesn't blind people at all because it has cut off. If you decide to keep to stock halogen bulbs, I've heard good reviews about PIAA bulbs. Its your own preference. http://www.lightwerkz.net/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=4386

Hahaha... I read about that, but wasn't so sure, thats why I asked him to read on. You need 3.75" backspacing so that the inner, top corner of the tire will clear the struts. The lower the number, the more the tire will stick out, so you'll be fine. But I'm not sure whether it will rub any other part of the vehicle if the tires stick out too much. If you gonna fit 33's with lift, there's a thread about it too.