dududuckling

Any link? I figure out the mounting will be the hardest part, right? I don't really care about the looks coz they end up being behind the bumper anyway...

The bulbs in the bumper fog lights always fuse out every 3 - 4 months. Its the IPF fog lights in the arb bumper, which I thought was supposed to be good... but not really. I replaced them in April, August, and December. What happens is that the right side will burn out exactly two weeks after the left side dies out. The two weeks interval is almost certain. I brought it to the shop today to get the wires checked and bulbs replaced. The guy told me that he found dry mud on the H3 bulbs (both on the glass and metal part). He said there is also some moisture inside the housing that contributes to the constant bulbs failure. The bulbs are completely dry with only traces of mud. Is this true? The last time I went wheeling was in October and the bulbs were fine until the beginning of January. When I wheel, I don't switch them on and sometime, there might be muddy water in it, but only at a very tiny amount. On the other hand, I'm thinking that there may be an exposed wire that touches the metal part of the pathy or the housing, which explains the regular interval of bulbs failure. While the guy in the shop asked me to replace the lamp housing altogether, I'm thinking of simply rechecking the wiring system and putting a layer of silicone around the lens to prevent future water entry. I'm also intending to put more layers of electrical tape surrounding the connectors. When I wheel in the water, I'm not gonna be there for more than a minute and these alternatives should be able to keep water out of the housing in the future. Do you think this is a good idea? Or is it better to replace the lamps altogether? Thank you for the input, I really appreciate it.

Fueler, how long did your LED bulbs last? I've a couple of extra bulbs and am thinking of refunding them. Based on what you said, i guess I'll keep them for spare instead. And which company did you buy from that offer lifetime warranty? Autolumination or superbrightleds? Thanks!!! As well, AROYK, if you decide to go with LEDs, just remember that one bulb can fit nice and tight with one base and sits very loosely with another base from the same circuit board. You just gotta be patient with the work. I have no clear explanation of why is that so, but its simply based on my observation. And be cautious when changing those bulbs, turn off everything just to be on the safe side, so the circuit board doesn't go smoking. You can also change the dome light to 36 leds for the extra brightness, as well as the a/c control if you have the manual one. Good luck!

I believe you should be fine with PB Blaster and wrench, hahaha... And aside from towing, I use it for rear protection and rear recovery point on the trail as well. I'd rather scraping the hitch on the rocks than having my plastic bumper ripped out.

I'm pretty sure you don't have to remove the rear bumper. You just have to unbolt and discard the tie down plates (secured by 3 bolts). Then align the holes on the hitch with the original holes for the bolts and put them back on. That's what we did on mine. I don't have a spare tire underneath like yours, so the procedure might be different. Passenger side: Driver side:

Do you want me to pimp Pepsi up? I can change your bulbs to LEDs as well, hahaha... I wanted to reply to this thread several days ago, asking him to simply switch the cluster bulbs to LED. But I wasn't sure if its in anyway related to the interior dome lights that aren't working. On my R50, there are 4 bulbs for the speedometer backlight and 1 bulb for the odometer. Your bulbs might simply be loose, as stated by Alkorahil. My circuit board is written in Japanese, and yours might be too, so you gotta take a smart guess on which bulbs are the ones responsible. You gotta twist and remove the bases from the circuit board. To remove the bulb, simply pull it out of the base with a plier. They sit really tight to the base. If you decide to go with LED bulbs, I THINK you might need #74. These bulbs sit more loosely in the base than the stock bulbs, but they are all functional. The hardest part of replacing or tightening the bulbs is the removal of the cluster gauge panel due to the space constraint between the steering wheel and the dashboard. Gotta be patient and smart... brute force and ignorance. As for the dome lights... I've not a clue. Ever tried spilling beer on the R50? Another guy in the other forum spilled beer in the garage and his electrical problem on the fog light was miraculously solved.

Congrats!!! Lotsa of good pictures this month...

If you go with the 2001+ R50, you can get the 3.5L V6 as well that comes with 240 hp. To do the lift on the R50 is pretty pricey, in my opinion, and the biggest tire you can stuff without any major modification is probably 32-33", depending on the backspacing and slight trimming or removal of the fender.

Okay, now I'm not sure about the part number for Bilstein. I'm going with Rancho...

I've been eyeing at this product for quite sometime. I wonder if I can use this on top of the AC lift in order to get 3" lift in the rear, then use a 1" strut spacer in order to get 3" lift in the front. Just a thought...

Nice pathy!!! Are you using the Rancho 9000XL?

In summary, The part numbers for KYB GR2 struts: 96-98 R50 uses #335015 and #335016 99-01 R50 uses #335030 and #335031 02-04 R50 uses #335032 and #335033 Based on the shocks sold at AC, it appears to me that all 1996-2004 R50 share the same part number for the shocks. Am I right in saying this? 999010 for Rancho and F4BE52790H0 for Bilstein? Thanks a lot guys.

No more input???

I just woke up, logged into NPORA, and was about to start another thread like this. Rod, you are an efficient man! For the Rancho 9000XL that is compatible with the lifted R50, is the part number RSX900096? I pulled that out from AC website, but I'm not sure. I need the ones that fit a lifted R50, lol... As for the KYB GR2 struts, is it the ones for a stock pathfinder with the part number # W0133-1612313 (Front left) and # W0133-1612246 (Front right)? As well, does anyone running Bilstein shocks remember the parts number? While I'm sure I want KYB GR2 struts, I'm debating between Rancho VS Bilstein shocks. There are people who are happy with Rancho, there are also people who have had bad luck with the products. I'm not sure if this has been discussed in another thread, but any help with the part numbers and your opinions are much appreciated! Thanks, guys!

Check the transmission if it shifts beautifully. I've had bad luck since I first bought it, but I just got a new transmission. And see if he has done the fuel filler recall (I think it covers all R50), but you can always do it. I believe its free of charge from the dealer. Like Adam said, the weather stripping is expensive, I have to replace mine, but its alright for now. And see if there's any rust hole or sign of rust around the wheel well... I can't think of anymore problem I've had with the R50.

Hahahhaa... Markham, Ontario... not Brampton I live right in the city and I can pretty much drive without headlight at night because it is just so bright. In the winter, I can be one of those guys who fall off the ditch in 407 (yep, I've seen it before) and I can start snacking while waiting for the tow truck, hahaha...

I'd like to add to this topic as well... Recovery strap Shovel Umbrella Fire extinguisher Spare key Map book LED Worklight Tire patch kits 12V tire inflation stuff Battery jumper stuff (I should charge that stuff again) 12V power inverter bungee straps Work gloves Jumper cable And a long screwdriver to adjust my headlight aiming... In the winter, I also pack a dozen bottles of water and some food (beef jerky, etc) so that in case I'm stuck, I won't go hungry. I also have a couple of hoodies, clean clothes, and lighter. I guess I'm a very paranoid about all kind of things, but I'd like to play it safe in case I slide into the ditch with no one in sight. When I go wheeling, I carry some tools as well just in case

Pete... I believe the 255/65R16 is around 29.0", depending on the manufacturer. BFG MT KM2 has something on 255/70R16, which is 30.3". Its the closest I could find when shopping for a stock-size mudtire and you won't feel the difference.

I had the same problem too back in Aug. I came to the garage smelling fuel and having inspected everything, there's no visible leak on the ground or anywhere in the vehicle. I took it to the dealer for the fuel filler recall, free of charge, and its fixed ever since...

EBay for sure... you can even get the blacked out headlight housing that comes with clear turn signal. Your headlight looks tinted but its not. In my opinion, it looks cool, but I find the light dispersion is worse than the OEM headlight housing.

Just to add a little more and not sure if its been discussed, but I've been running 255/70R16 BFG KM2 on a stock 2000 R50 without rubbing. It looks no different to me than the 255/65R16

Great on rocks and snow, not so great in wet rocks and mud... My friend with a 31's Mickey Thompson Baja Claw does better in both muds and rocks. But my tires are pretty quiet on the highway. I've put about 20,000 km on the tire and when I checked last friday, they had 14/32" remaining. I go a lot on the highway and have been on the trail five times so far. I've always been interested in 32x10.5" DC Grappler, they look pretty aggressive and probably will fit on my stock rims as well... I'm pretty sure that will fit if I do the AC lift... maybe my future mods.

I've got the 2000 SE and it runs on 255/70/R16 BFG MT KM2. When I go on the trail, I neva heard or felt it rubbed at all.

Are you referring to me, Simon? Lol... Well, I also had difficulty engaging the first gear and sometime it would grind and jerk back into neutral. Sometime it gave me a shock when I was sleep-driving, lol... When my friend changed the transmission fluid, he found several teeth on the drain plug and I ended up with a new transmission and clutch. Whatever it is, I hope its not gonna be an expensive repair like mine. By the way, are the transmission and clutch considered to be the weakest link in the pathy that comes with standard transmission? I'm just wondering...

Yes... 22" on the driver, 21" on the passenger, I think