dududuckling

I really like it. Its nice and clean, most importantly it works as it should. Been thinking of doing this on the R50

The light blue is cool white if you see the pics. So between that and blue (or dark blue), I'd go for dark blue. But its personal preference, hahaha... PS: Dude, where about in Michigan do you live??? I should update my location to Rochester Hills... I go to school in Detroit.

Sure that's another way to do it. As for me, I didn't take the stereo off. So I had to take the knobs off, so that the face plate can come off. The bulbs were hidden behind the plate. Towncivilian - The leds look good!

I think the knob just snaps off. Again, go easy from the side. I broke one off, glued the inside back together, and stuffed the knob back in. Been working fine, no problem. You can get it from www.autolumination.com or http://www.superbrightleds.com/ The bulb is #74 if I'm not mistaken, someone correct me if I'm wrong. And its the same bulb for the speedometer as well. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2F74-xHP3.html

I don't know if this is what you meant. But hope this helps. There are two clips at the top, three at the bottom. I used the smallest flat head screw driver to get the clip out. Just be gentle so you don't break any of it. http://s687.photobucket.com/albums/vv237/dududuckling/How%20to%20change%20ac%20unit%20bulbs/

Holy crap! No rust at all behind those flares... your pathy looks real good

I'm gonna try - old pic. Sometime its good being a low rider Dududuckling St. Catharine, ON

Fluids Engine Oil - Royal Purple Motor Oil 5W30 Coolant - Nissan 70:30 with Royal Purple Radiator Additives ATF - N/A (Manual) MTF - Royal Purple Max Gear 75W90 Transfer Case - Royal Purple Max Gear 75W90 Front Diff - Royal Purple Max Gear 85W140 Rear Diff - Royal Purple Max Gear 85W140 Brake Fluid - ATE Super Blue Dot 4 Clutch Fluid - Nissan Dot 3 Power Steering Fluid - Nissan PSF II Filters Oil Filter - K&N Air Filter - K&N In-Cabin Air Filter - Nissan Fuel Filter - Nissan ATF Filter - N/A (Manual) Change intervals Fluids Engine Oil - 5000 km Coolant - 2 year ATF - N/A (Manual) MTF - 2 year Transfer Case - >5 years Front Diff - >5 years Rear Diff - 2 year Brake Fluid - >5 years Power Steering Fluid - >5 years Filters Oil Filter - 5000 km Air Filter - Washed once a year In-Cabin Air Filter - >5 years Fuel Filter - 2 year ATF Filter - N/A (Manual) 2000 Nissan Pathfinder has 277,000 km.

You should take out the new out of new4x4r now...

Does it come with any hardware? Top mount or middle mount? My lift is almost two years old, the front has settled pretty good. Struts top out are not very likely. I don't like the tow-truck look. Might be interested in strut spacers to get it level again.

I might be wrong, but you might not need wheel spacers or lift to fit 31s. I have a 2" lift, but that doesn't change the tire-strut clearance. I fit 265/70/16 (30.6") on stock wheels without spacers. And if you rub the flares, you can always trim it.

http://www.nx4industries.com/

Also note that AC will actually give you 2.5-3" lift in the beginning and it settles down to 2"... still enough room to fit 32-33's.

Here you go, this is on the driver-side headlight: This is the one that's easy to access You'll need longer screw driver for this one as the screw is all the way down: Adjustment screws are vertical position, my bad... just grab longer screw driver, stuck it in, and turn it clockwise/anti-clockwise.

Behind each light, you'll see two horizontal screws, kinda like the beer caps. One is located at the top and easy to access, the other one is located much lower and you'll need longer screw driver to get to it. One screw adjusts left/right and the other adjusts up/down. They turn clockwise/anti-clockwise since they're in the horizontal position. When you have HID, you might wanna aim them lower than suggested because HID has wider beam pattern and scatters everywhere. I'll try to get a picture of it later today.

I'm gonna try Mine, Ontario, Canada

Tire-to-strut, inner wheel well, etc: There's no rub in the front on full-turn to the right. There's slight rubbing on full-turn to the left and you hit a bump. I'm gonna trim the flares a little more. I've a strong feeling that I'll rub in the rear when flexed. So I did a quick Photoshop of what I intend to do in the near future

Thanks to 01Silvapathy, Alex, and Rick_13 for the help. I ended up with a set of used 285/75/16 Goodyear MTR (5) and a set of Pro Comp steelies (4), 16x8, 6x5.5", 3.75" BS. I ordered the wheels from 4wheelparts.com for $300, including shipping. Unmounted (without wheels), the tires measure barely 32.3" for 285/75/16 and my old km2, 255/70/16, measured barely 29.5" approximately. I removed 95% of the front inner wheel well and trimmed front fender flares. It was an easy job coz my fenders are all rusted out, so it didn't take much to pry the plastic off the fender. They were already hanging loose.

271,000 km or 170,000 miles...

I got my shocks and struts from autopartsway.ca, because they do free delivery within Canada. KYB GR2 Part no.: K11335030 (left) and K11335031 (right) As long as I can remember, 96-2004 share the same rear shocks, no change in part no. As for the struts, 96-99.5, 99.5-2001, 2002-2004 are different. I think they have different mounts. Andrew

Come on guys, R50 looks better every time... Its an older design, and yet it looks proportional in terms of the windows, tires, stance, etc. The body panels of R50 are simple, but they do have curvatures that look pretty good under the daylight (its pretty obvious in a silver R50 in daytime). You get to see the reflection of the sky, and things at the horizon. As for the R51, I find the fender flares are oversize, and the body panels are too flat, boxy-looking. I like the front-end though

Just do the lift already, hahaha... Are you on CNTC as well? You can do the 2" AC lift and fit 32's, 4" SFD and fit 33's, or 6" altogether and fit 35's...

Actually, there's something more important came up: P1491... vacuum cut valve bypass valve... Dammit! A set of 255/85/16 is about $150-$200 cheaper than a set of 285/75/16. I asked alex what he did to fit the 255/85/16. He had to roll in the lip of the front fender quite a lot and that fender flares have to go. I'm giving it second thought.

I love Grimsby mud!!! Hahahaha...

Yep. But they are all approximates. Top of front bumper to the ground: 30" ---> 32.5" Top of rear bumper to the ground: 28" ---> 31" Center cap of the spare tire to the ground: 37" ---> 41" I think I gained more at the back coz the ARB is pretty heavy.