dududuckling

Does it come with any hardware? Top mount or middle mount? My lift is almost two years old, the front has settled pretty good. Struts top out are not very likely. I don't like the tow-truck look. Might be interested in strut spacers to get it level again.

I might be wrong, but you might not need wheel spacers or lift to fit 31s. I have a 2" lift, but that doesn't change the tire-strut clearance. I fit 265/70/16 (30.6") on stock wheels without spacers. And if you rub the flares, you can always trim it.

http://www.nx4industries.com/

Also note that AC will actually give you 2.5-3" lift in the beginning and it settles down to 2"... still enough room to fit 32-33's.

Here you go, this is on the driver-side headlight: This is the one that's easy to access You'll need longer screw driver for this one as the screw is all the way down: Adjustment screws are vertical position, my bad... just grab longer screw driver, stuck it in, and turn it clockwise/anti-clockwise.

Behind each light, you'll see two horizontal screws, kinda like the beer caps. One is located at the top and easy to access, the other one is located much lower and you'll need longer screw driver to get to it. One screw adjusts left/right and the other adjusts up/down. They turn clockwise/anti-clockwise since they're in the horizontal position. When you have HID, you might wanna aim them lower than suggested because HID has wider beam pattern and scatters everywhere. I'll try to get a picture of it later today.

Tire-to-strut, inner wheel well, etc: There's no rub in the front on full-turn to the right. There's slight rubbing on full-turn to the left and you hit a bump. I'm gonna trim the flares a little more. I've a strong feeling that I'll rub in the rear when flexed. So I did a quick Photoshop of what I intend to do in the near future

Thanks to 01Silvapathy, Alex, and Rick_13 for the help. I ended up with a set of used 285/75/16 Goodyear MTR (5) and a set of Pro Comp steelies (4), 16x8, 6x5.5", 3.75" BS. I ordered the wheels from 4wheelparts.com for $300, including shipping. Unmounted (without wheels), the tires measure barely 32.3" for 285/75/16 and my old km2, 255/70/16, measured barely 29.5" approximately. I removed 95% of the front inner wheel well and trimmed front fender flares. It was an easy job coz my fenders are all rusted out, so it didn't take much to pry the plastic off the fender. They were already hanging loose.

271,000 km or 170,000 miles...

I got my shocks and struts from autopartsway.ca, because they do free delivery within Canada. KYB GR2 Part no.: K11335030 (left) and K11335031 (right) As long as I can remember, 96-2004 share the same rear shocks, no change in part no. As for the struts, 96-99.5, 99.5-2001, 2002-2004 are different. I think they have different mounts. Andrew

Come on guys, R50 looks better every time... Its an older design, and yet it looks proportional in terms of the windows, tires, stance, etc. The body panels of R50 are simple, but they do have curvatures that look pretty good under the daylight (its pretty obvious in a silver R50 in daytime). You get to see the reflection of the sky, and things at the horizon. As for the R51, I find the fender flares are oversize, and the body panels are too flat, boxy-looking. I like the front-end though

Just do the lift already, hahaha... Are you on CNTC as well? You can do the 2" AC lift and fit 32's, 4" SFD and fit 33's, or 6" altogether and fit 35's...

Actually, there's something more important came up: P1491... vacuum cut valve bypass valve... Dammit! A set of 255/85/16 is about $150-$200 cheaper than a set of 285/75/16. I asked alex what he did to fit the 255/85/16. He had to roll in the lip of the front fender quite a lot and that fender flares have to go. I'm giving it second thought.

I love Grimsby mud!!! Hahahaha...

Yep. But they are all approximates. Top of front bumper to the ground: 30" ---> 32.5" Top of rear bumper to the ground: 28" ---> 31" Center cap of the spare tire to the ground: 37" ---> 41" I think I gained more at the back coz the ARB is pretty heavy.

Had the same ground clearance as my friend's civic, hahaha... Anyway, this is post lift:

Thanks B! I think that's the primary reason I get rust holes on my fenders so fast... water and salt get repelled by the tire shine, lol...

Thanks guys! Crusher is cool, but I just read reviews saying that they wear out really bad on the road. Someone posted that at 12,000 km and the uneven wear becomes visible. I guess I'll stick to the KM2 then. Now I only have to decide between 255/85/16 and 285/75/16. Gonna go to the tire shop to see the price difference, and if they'll let me test fit. Thanks so far!

Hi, I'm in the market to buy 33's MTs for the R50. The pathy has 2" AC lift and ARB bumper, which should help with tire-bumper clearance. After seeing Alexrex and 01silvapathy's R50 (before he put the SFD), I'm more inclined to get 33's for two reasons: it has 1/2" more clearance than 32's and if I install SFD in the future, I already have the right tire size. I'm not gonna put 35's coz although its awesome, I commute long distance on the highway everyday (~70 miles). As for 33's, I'm torn between: 255/85/16 KM2 (33x10.5") and 285/75/16 Crusher (33x11.5"). The main reason I like the DC Crusher is because of the skull side wall, lol... They claimed its functional, but I think the Crusher will look much hotter than the pathy after I put three coats of tire shine on it. And the narrowest 33's that they have is 285/75/16. As the tire has wider footprint, I hope to get better traction in wet, slippery road and slick rocks. The bad side of the Crusher is I'm not sure if it'll tuck into the rear wheel well when fully flexed, without kicking out the fender flare. Its not big of a deal on my daily commute, but I don't wanna come back from the trail with missing fender flare. I know 01silvapathy stuffed 285/75/16 BFG ATs in the rear. But the Crusher has more aggressive lugs and might be wider than the ATs. This brings me to the narrower KM2. The 255/85/16 has the same footprint as stock tire (255/65/16), and I'm pretty confident it will tuck in easily. I intend to have the same set up as 01silvapathy... 16x8, 6x5.5", 4.25" backspace with 1.5" front spacers and nothing at the back. I also expect the KM2 to get better MPG, braking distance, while putting less stress on the front end components... am I right/wrong? I've had KM2 in the past and I like the way it handles on the highway. Its not that great in the rain and snow, but its perfect for the summer. Does anyone have experience with the DC Crusher? Also, for those that stay in the US, is Discount Tire the cheapest store to get MTs from? Any input is much appreciated... I'm hoping to get them before the Badland event. Thanks, Andrew

I think you might have to modify the front fender where it meet the headlight and the front grill

That's some serious trail right there. Nice video

I've got the same rust holes on the front and the rear too... Lol

Tyler, thanks for the info.! I'll check them out, Phantom, any noise with the pads and do you get a lot of brake dust? Yeah, I've been wondering the same about rear drums too.

Thanks guys. Tyler, are those stop tech brake pads as well? I don't recall seeing any online.

I need to replace the front brake discs and pads for the pathy. Does anyone have recommendation as to which brand I should go for? Should I stick with the OEM one? I'm concerned about its performance in a stop-and-go traffic on a hot summer day and while wheeling in the mud and rock. The OEM one has not given me any problem, but I wonder if I'll get better stopping distance by going with after market brands. Currently, I'm leaning towards the EBC yellow stuff brake pads and the slotted, vented discs because they look pretty. Thanks, Andrew