GrimGreg

Subaru, I didn't know you were a lesbian? Seriously though, I think I would have given you more cred if you HAD bought a Heep.

There are some manufacturers who make them, but if you have a welder and a place to buy some steel, home built is the way to go.

That is for checking codes; if a sensor on your engine finds a problem it will send a signal code to the ECU, in Diagnosis mode the ECU will flash te LEDs so that you can read the numeric code and figure out what is FUBAR.

Cutting the fronts can lead to blown CVs quick since the bump stops keep the CV in their optimal range of movement. I never had any bump stops on the rear of either of my Pathys.

Yeah, it is mostly stearing component failure from over-wide tires.

I have seen a lot worst (and had to rebuild a few that were).

Yeah, that is typical. they use all brands for the body and slap a tread on it. The side might say AT, but the tread might be an MT...or if you order a set of 4 31x10.50 MTs you might get 1 Michelin, 1 BFG and 2 Generals all retreaded with the same tread pattern that might be the same as a Dunlop tread.

Yeah, this has happened more than once or twice. I saw pictures of a Jeep once after the fact that had that happen with the head rest obliterated and the windsheild had a softball sized hole in it.

I built mine, and made it to bolt on.

"Need to", no, but it would probably be a good idea to just so they aren't strained.

That bumper looks kinda framiliar.

I think I would go with these if I did use any retread http://www.greendiamondtire.com/productswest2.html

Retreads are a crap shoot. They do like to delaminate when they get overheated on the road. Never heard any issues offroad, but that doesn't mean there haven't been any.

With the cat did you swap out the pipe into and out of it, or did you just cut out the cat and reuse the stock pipes?

No the Ranchos won't, but some air shocks would do a little for you, though not much unless you ran them without springs which is a bad idea. Not to mention our front ends are alligned in a way so that it operates properly at the ride height it is at at the time of the allignment. Changing ride height back and forth will change the caster and camber and could cause major steering and wear issues. Rovers and other vehicles with the variable height systems have different suspension systems that maintain the same geometry on the front end at the varied heights.

Well I ment if you could only work on it 2 hrs at a time, do what you can in that time, and leave things hanging, but plugged in and working between work times so it is usable.

Some have welded the spacers on to the bumper brackets. I know mine sags all the time(used the 4 offset plates in the kit), but I've never bothered with trying to redo it better.

Never had any trouble, but mine are manual windows

Actually, you could probably take some time and pull the seat and get the ECU unbolted and free up the wires then just leave them sit on the front floor board until you can take the time to remount it.

A little, it is more of a whirring than a whistle, but it is noisier with just a cone and no box to deaden the intake noise.

What year? Edit: NM looked at your profile. Your "Thermo Element" is probably bad or out of adjustment. It is on the front of the TBI and has a screw that the throttle arm rests on.

Actually leaving a broken stud long enough will cause the gasket to eventually go, been there.

Aside from the external cooler, I have no mods to my tranny system.

I wouldn't flush it, but maybe drain the pan and add back a quart or 3 fresh to replace what drains out.

Where in Hell you planning to go?