GrimGreg

Link arm bushings worn.

I actually found a bolt hole in the firewall that was unused in my 93 that I used for the wires to my lights on my front bar. On my 88 I removed the metal plug that covered the spot where the clutch mounts and ran the wires through that opening.

Only difference with AC's kit is they add bolts to fit later models with a larger rear bolt. I'd buy the kit at Jegs (again same PA kit) then hit McMaster-Carr and order the 2 rear bolts.

I wouldn't have gone near Mexico even before that warning was posted. The act like it just got bad, BS, it's been bad for a long time now!

Someone posted a link to Jegs selling the kit for $80.

In all reallity you only need to disconnect one side, as the bar will just move freely with the side it remains attached to, no worry about anything dangling/dragging.

I think the main thing is you aren't thinking you'll do this mod and make the thing worth $10k, unlike that low rider POS someone posted.

A prime example of lockers vs flex is the H1 Hummer, it has terrible flex, but fully locked.

No, it doesn't. All the load is transfered via the lugs.

DO NOT use hockey pucks, they can crack and break off. Just buy the 2" Performance Accessories kit, $80 and it has all the blocks and bolts ready to go.

It isn't shown on that at all.

No matter where you go it''ll be the same stamped steel part with a thin mesh in the opening of it. There are no high end or low end parts, it is what it is. AND, unless the mesh screen is torn, it is ment to be cleaned and reused, not replaced.

Same here, no leaks.

With where you are at now, the AC arms will do nothing for you.

Not to hard, somewhere on the forum the proceedure is wrote up. Basic run through: remove wheel, remove hub, remove brake caliper, undo upper ball joint, remove bolts between CV and front diff, yank out the shaft and replace the boots.

There are also a lot of NOAS memebers in NC that can probably hook you up withother little spots to hit.

You can go to a coil-over setup without too much trouble on a 2wd, you have more room to play with and no axel to get in the way. For any real pre-run fun with a Pathy you would need to rebuild the front to coil-overs and do a long arm setup for more travel. The stock travel range isn't very large, so your dampening needs to be pretty harsh to soak up the bumps effectively. No one makes a long arm kit for the Pathfinder, and I think the kit that was being made for the Hardbodies was discontinued about 5 years ago. Total Chaos makes one for Frontier/Xterra, that might be able to be used with a little bit of modification.

Nice.

Bore size is irrelevent, the lugs should be what centers the wheel on the hub properly. The one that is "bouncy" might have a bad tire; out of round, broken belt, etc.

I've thought about getting one of those to keep behind the stock console on the rear floorboard.

With the poor mileage and gas smell in the exhaust, you might want to check the MAF and O2 sensors one of those could be faulty causing you to run rich.

lol, at least someone is out here voicing an opinion others are afraid to admit they have right? BTW, B, some idiot Chrysler enginerd put cruise buttons and a bomb in my van's steering wheel, damn retards.

Only button that belongs on a steering wheel is a horn button!

Actually it can still cause hard turning because with the hubs locked the CVs are being turned by the wheels as they roll.

Guess that wasn't fully explained in this thread at least 3 or 4 times....