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Hey gang, Over the last 18 months I've really come to love my WD21 Pathfinder! So many quirks and features. If you were going to do a "Doug DeMuro style" review of your WD21, what quirks and features would you point out? I can think of a few, perhaps specific to my SE-V6 w/ Power Package It has a spoiler... haha You can engage the windshield washer without actually using the wiper blades Rear armrests on the outside, and seatbelt clips to keep the buckles nice and organized those LEGO wheels tho My 1992 doesn't have a check engine light... not that it's broken or depopulated, it just never came with one. period. gotta check those blinky lights on the computer! two tier roofline as a precursor to the 1st gen Xterras Old school switch-activated cruise control Gotta press that little button to get the key out - classic japanese style The triple "nostrils" on the grill "hidden" rear door handles Maybe if I collect enough I'll make a 'tribute video' on YouTube.... haha Cheers from sunny Colorado!

Ha ha, those cases. I hate that they are black plastic instead of something light colored for contrast - because otherwise, they are irresistible for the price & functionality. I have several filled with Pathy parts in my garage.

Love this idea, Im having trouble finding roof racks for my Terrano here in NZ and I reckon something like this might be perfect to get me through. Any chance you can elaborate on the design of these mounts a bit more? I'm guessing these are bolted directly to the fixed points in the rain gutter? Love the rest of the build too!

Does anyone have a guide for the swap though?

As you've discovered, Hawairish is the Nissan diff guru. I don't have much to add here, except to say that I'd love to see a project thread on either of your 4x4 conversions!

No problem, Gerry! Please keep us posted on this project, it sounds great! Oh, and we love pics here at NPORA...post some up when you can. Again, having looked into an EV conversion recently myself (on a far simpler Nissan platform...practically without any electronics), I was definitely intrigued by the idea, so I absolutely want to see (and learn and contribute) more. A particular Ford Ranger done by EV West several years ago struck me as the standard I'd want to achieve. I'm planning to rebuild the engine and transmission later this year, so you've still got time to convince me (I do have shiny new headers in a box, and an eyeball on a turbocharger kit, btw...). Sounds like you've had a great career, but sorry to hear about the accident. Better to have some mobility than none, I'll say, so I'm glad you're able to make the most of it and hopefully there's still room for improvement. This project is one helluva way to prove what you're still capable of. As for the conversion, I was definitely seeing a declining cost for equipment, especially for salvaged OEM batteries. For sure, an array of standard car batteries isn't any cheaper today than it was a decade ago. And pretty funny to hear you've got two of the BMW i3 batteries already...it feels like those are almost brand new cars still! Display looks pretty slick, too. (BTW, for anyone looking, remove the "." from the URL.) About the R51 transfer case...just to be sure, does yours have the "Auto" mode on the dial? I knew the R51 to have the ATX14B All-Mode case (some R50s and all QX4s have the ATX14A), but I did not realize that the FSM also specs the TX15B as being an option (this was the only option on the Frontier and Xterra at the time). The R50 uses the TX10A case, which is a lever-driven Part-Time 4wd unit, while this TX15B unit is an actuator-driven relative that lacks an Auto mode on the dial switch (that is, 2H/4H/4L vs. 2H/Auto/4H/4L). More importantly, the TX cases lack the clutch-plate system—and consequently, a lot of complexity—that's in the ATX cases. Presuming you have the ATX, I feel like it'd be worth exploring the TX...spitballing here, but probably easy to find, I'd expect it to be a direct replacement, share similar (same?) wiring harnesses, same output flanges, etc. I'd probably still utilize the actuator system if I could (it read like there's a position sensor in it, too), if nothing more than to save the trouble of cutting into the transmission hump to install a lever and linkage, but perhaps the TX10A (also found on pre-MY05 Frontiers, Xterras, Pathfinders, and Hardbodies) would be a suitable donor for linkage, lever, and even shifter boots/bezels. Food for thought. Good call on getting the mechanical side of things sorted first, though. Also, I decided to do an actual search to see if others have tried the Quaife...and sure enough they have, so I'm certain we're on the right path. I prefer to do my own research on stuff like this (in this case, I would've never had a reason to bother looking), but I'm always certain I'm not the first to reach such conclusions. This was the first result: https://www.clubfrontier.org/threads/quaife-qdf11l-installed-in-my-c200k-rear-axle.350923/. The author used a QDF11L, which supports the carrier break theory as his 2015 Frontier S 2.5L would have a gear ratio of either 4.083 (49:12) or 4.363 (48:11). It at least confirms that the overall carrier series dimensions are spot on, so now it's just a matter of confirming L4.

Hi Patrick, My response to your thoughtful reply in purple....... Ooooooohhh, that "all-electric"! I totally misinterpreted that. We've had a 98 Frontier in the family with manual windows, locks, and mirrors and every day for 22+ years I've wanted it to be the other other "all electric" (power windows, etc.). I was actually researching EV options for that truck a few months ago, too. Seemed neat, but the costs seem out of my league. I can only afford to reach across the seat to roll down the window. Anyway... I know the feeling...I bought doors with electric windows and power locks from a salvage yard for the Chev S10 conversion. I like comfort. FYI, I am not a wealthy guy, but have learned to do a lot of things over the years (I just turned 71)....I've built buildings, done electrical wiring and plumbing. Know a fair amount of electronics. I've made my living as a professional photographer (See gerrykopelow.com) doing my own film and print processing in-house, been totally digital for about fifteen years. The money for the EV conversions comes from a settlement after a serious car accident. Someone drove into me on the street: Both my legs were badly crushed, four months in hospital, had to learn how to walk again, etc. I am partially disabled but still quite functional, though somewhat slower. Another factor making EV conversions easier and cheaper: Used components from salvaged OEM EV's. Lots of low-mileage EVs get wrapped around trees on account of the high torque available with electric motors in combination with the 'Dunning-Kruger Effect'.. For example, for the Pathfinder conversion I am using two main battery packs from wrecked BMW i3 EVs. This amount of high-tech battery costs today about half of what I paid for battery power ten years ago for the S10 project. Other items like the battery charger are also cheaper. Enthusiasts have worked out the CAN codes for a lot of this OEM hardware, now plentiful on the salvage market. So now, about the Quaife...I have a modified recommendation: I think the QDF10L is the correct model for your application, not the QDF13L. When I previously dug into this, it was only cursory searching just to shut that guy up (which it didn't, apparently). Digging a little deeper, I see Quaife has 4 possible replacements for the 350Z, depending on the transmission and the diff type it came came with: Auto/Open: QDF10L Manual/Open: QDF11L Manual/VLSD: QDF13L Auto/VLSD: QDF18L My learning curve has accelerated as the beneficiary of your experience. I did pick up on the four offerings for the 350Z, but thought the differences were limited to length of the output shafts for the various versions. The Quaife website has dimensional spec sheets on each model (except the 18L, which just linked to the 10L spec sheet). The 10L has a 0.4"/10.2mm difference on the "L4" bearing-to-crown-surface measurement vs. the 11L/13L models, which suggests a "carrier break" between gear ratios. The 2003 350Z FSM shows that the MT has 3.538 (46:13) gears, while the AT has 3.357 (47:14). That extra pinion tooth (13 vs. 14) is enough to require pushing the ring gear over that extra amount to accommodate the larger pinion head. The 2005 R51 FSM shows the 4WD ratio as also being 3.357, and sure enough, the ring and pinion set (38100-2C360 -> 38100-0F36A) is the same as used in 2003-09 350Z and 2005-12 R51 (and same years D40 Frontier and 2009-20 370Z). So, my money's on the QDF10L. I will double check all of the above...as you say, I have the parts literally in hand to confirm everything with proper measurements. My confidence is pretty high just based on the part number cross refs alone, but with your carrier out and the specs online, that should confirm just about everything. I wouldn't even be surprised if someone else has done this, but I've not searched around for it. Your front diff is a smaller R180A model. Nissan did use R180A's as front diffs in older W/D21 Pathfinders/Hardbodies, and also as rear diffs in older Z cars (Subaru even used R180s), but it's a longshot they're similar. My Google-Fu suggests the car diffs were 8-bolt ring gears...not sure about the trucks, but I'll guess there weren't LSD options. ARB offers two lockers (RD180 and RD181, depending on carrier break) and shows the R180A as being a 10-bolt ring gear with 27-spline shafts at 1.09"/27.8mm. This "CD52P" LSD from Mother Russia might be just the ticket: https://www.ebay.com/itm/123629507939 I've dealt with this guy in Russia...very helpful and reasonable. Will look into this unit for the front axle of my truck. Thanks for the specification and the link. At this point, I'd say running dual LSDs on that R51 would be pretty slick in itself...but since you're pushing the envelope by going EV...oh man... I have dual LSDs on the S10 and it is terrific in snow and on ice. Unfortunately they use literally tons of salt on the city roads and highways around here, so after ten years I am losing the S10 to rust. (Donor body for the conversion was a 2001 model.) Speaking very broadly here since I've not worked on an R51 and haven't scoured the FSM (yet?): the removal of the transmission alone will very likely be problematic. The Transmission Control Module (TCM) provides input signals to practically every system on the truck. Even if you keep the transfer case, the transfer control unit (TCU) uses TCM data. I imagine much of this can be bypassed to some degree with some re-wiring (after all, it's just 12v solenoids doing the actual work, with some brains in between to keep anyone from engaging 4L at freeway speeds), so ideally the switch can be wired to provide basic signalling. To that extent, I use an All-Mode switch from R50/QX4 models to run my air compressor and air lockers...so I'd reasonably expect the R51/D40/N40 switch to be repurposable to signal the transfer case to be in 2H/4H/4L. But, it's a broad assumption having not looked into it. The brake/traction systems also rely on TCM data. On the plus side, if the transfer case is similar to the R50 versions (specifically those with All-Mode, including all QX4) then I believe the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) is on the transfer case and not the transmission. There may be another revolution sensor that might need to be simulated, but you really have to hope that the TCM-to-ECM (Engine Control Module) is not deeply impacted as well. The ECM in itself will be another problem. Do you plan to use the gauge cluster, or will you have some other interface/display showing EV-specific data? We are thinking alike on this.....I try to avoid electronic solutions in vehicles where robust mechanical systems can do a more reliable job with direct operator control. On the S10 I replaced the electronic 2wd --> 4wd switching with a mechanical shift lever and direct linkage to the transfer case. Will do the same thing on the Pathfinder. In addition, apparently there is an internal LSD-like internal clutch system in the Pathfinder transfer case that distributes power between the front and rear differentials. With proper LSDs front and back, I am fairly confident that I can eliminate the electronics and ABS-like regulation of this clutch with, as you say, a simple switch. And your intuition is correct....I will use an EV-friendly CAN-based display in place of the OEM cluster. See http://store.evtv.me/proddetail.php?prod=evicgevcu I have one of these units in the S10 and it works great. Of course, everything really depends on what features/functions/system from the truck you want/need to keep. My best recommendation there is to list out all those items, download all the FSM chapters for the truck, and review all the system descriptions. The FSMs do a great job of describing function and indicating which systems/sensors are used and how. The troubleshooting/diagnostic sections will also provide voltage/resistance data for sensors. This way, you might be able to gauge which inputs can be simulated by switch and/or resistor to preserve a function, or otherwise trick a control module. Once I have the all-mechanical stuff up and running, I will experiment with bringing the OEM electronic features back if possible. Would inevitably be a lot of work, and may even prove out not to be necessary. Can't thank you enough for your excellent advice. Very kind. Cheers, Gerry

Hey Gerry, Ooooooohhh, that "all-electric"! I totally misinterpreted that. We've had a 98 Frontier in the family with manual windows, locks, and mirrors and every day for 22+ years I've wanted it to be the other other "all electric" (power windows, etc.). I was actually researching EV options for that truck a few months ago, too. Seemed neat, but the costs seem out of my league. I can only afford to reach across the seat to roll down the window. Anyway... So now, about the Quaife...I have a modified recommendation: I think the QDF10L is the correct model for your application, not the QDF13L. When I previously dug into this, it was only cursory searching just to shut that guy up (which it didn't, apparently). Digging a little deeper, I see Quaife has 4 possible replacements for the 350Z, depending on the transmission and the diff type it came came with: Auto/Open: QDF10L Manual/Open: QDF11L Manual/VLSD: QDF13L Auto/VLSD: QDF18L The Quaife website has dimensional spec sheets on each model (except the 18L, which just linked to the 10L spec sheet). The 10L has a 0.4"/10.2mm difference on the "L4" bearing-to-crown-surface measurement vs. the 11L/13L models, which suggests a "carrier break" between gear ratios. The 2003 350Z FSM shows that the MT has 3.538 (46:13) gears, while the AT has 3.357 (47:14). That extra pinion tooth (13 vs. 14) is enough to require pushing the ring gear over that extra amount to accommodate the larger pinion head. The 2005 R51 FSM shows the 4WD ratio as also being 3.357, and sure enough, the ring and pinion set (38100-2C360 -> 38100-0F36A) is the same as used in 2003-09 350Z and 2005-12 R51 (and same years D40 Frontier and 2009-20 370Z). So, my money's on the QDF10L. My confidence is pretty high just based on the part number cross refs alone, but with your carrier out and the specs online, that should confirm just about everything. I wouldn't even be surprised if someone else has done this, but I've not searched around for it. Your front diff is a smaller R180A model. Nissan did use R180A's as front diffs in older W/D21 Pathfinders/Hardbodies, and also as rear diffs in older Z cars (Subaru even used R180s), but it's a longshot they're similar. My Google-Fu suggests the car diffs were 8-bolt ring gears...not sure about the trucks, but I'll guess there weren't LSD options. ARB offers two lockers (RD180 and RD181, depending on carrier break) and shows the R180A as being a 10-bolt ring gear with 27-spline shafts at 1.09"/27.8mm. This "CD52P" LSD from Mother Russia might be just the ticket: https://www.ebay.com/itm/123629507939 At this point, I'd say running dual LSDs on that R51 would be pretty slick in itself...but since you're pushing the envelope by going EV...oh man... Speaking very broadly here since I've not worked on an R51 and haven't scoured the FSM (yet?): the removal of the transmission alone will very likely be problematic. The Transmission Control Module (TCM) provides input signals to practically every system on the truck. Even if you keep the transfer case, the transfer control unit (TCU) uses TCM data. I imagine much of this can be bypassed to some degree with some re-wiring (after all, it's just 12v solenoids doing the actual work, with some brains in between to keep anyone from engaging 4L at freeway speeds), so ideally the switch can be wired to provide basic signalling. To that extent, I use an All-Mode switch from R50/QX4 models to run my air compressor and air lockers...so I'd reasonably expect the R51/D40/N40 switch to be repurposable to signal the transfer case to be in 2H/4H/4L. But, it's a broad assumption having not looked into it. The brake/traction systems also rely on TCM data. On the plus side, if the transfer case is similar to the R50 versions (specifically those with All-Mode, including all QX4) then I believe the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) is on the transfer case and not the transmission. There may be another revolution sensor that might need to be simulated, but you really have to hope that the TCM-to-ECM (Engine Control Module) is not deeply impacted as well. The ECM in itself will be another problem. Do you plan to use the gauge cluster, or will you have some other interface/display showing EV-specific data? Of course, everything really all depends on what features/functions/system from the truck you want/need to keep. My best recommendation there is to list out all those items, download all the FSM chapters for the truck, and review all the system descriptions. The FSMs do a great job of describing function and indicating which systems/sensors are used and how. The troubleshooting/diagnostic sections will also provide voltage/resistance data for sensors. This way, you might be able to gauge which inputs can be simulated by switch and/or resistor to preserve a function, or otherwise trick a control module.