mike1305

Thanks everyone. It just annoys me that there seems to be umpteen different configurations and designs of the center console with no evidence of that in the parts diagrams online haha. Tried to get lucky at a local import junkyard this weekend and struck out. Guess I’ll just keep an eye on eBay for my quest to find the cool OEM parts that seem like unobtainium haha. Cheers

Losing my mind - going to try here to see if anyone has info. Pictured below is the center console / arm rest extension from my 1992 SE. All Nissan parts stores and diagrams act like it doesn't exist: Goes right here: I've been able to find the top part for sale on eBay (without any useful part numbers) but not the box part itself. The top part I have is in perfect condition, it's the plastic facing that it connects to that has fallen apart, rendering it useless. Trying desperately to figure out a part number so I can more intelligently search for a replacement. Anyone? Bueller? What info I can find on the part itself: On the bottom of the box there are these strings that were probably molded into every unit to reduce tooling for the three colors the interior was offered in. Can't find anything online when searching. 096-11-PC-RD-L26-RED 096-11-PC-BL-L26-BLUE 096-11-PC-GR-L26-GRAY Also "NR 9007", seems related to the "9013" on the inside of the top plastic flange thing, but probably internal part numbers vs. external. This same diagram shows up everywhere, which isn't correct because the rocker switches for the adjustable shocks and fogs aren't shown, so perhaps this info is just lost to the cosmos...

I'm sure there are a few threads on this already, but I'll include some work I did to lay out the space for anyone trying to overland in a WD21 4 Door. I was just trying to figure out a comfortable place for my fiancee and I to sleep. Even summer nights in the mountains are too cold for the Mrs. and she cried during two camping trips in 2020 from not being able to sleep for two nights straight lol. Anyway, onto the photos. The limiting factor for rear space is where the rear seat bottoms tumble to. But not if you remove them, as mentioned in many a thread here. Just 4 12mm bolts per seat, easily done by hand. Unbolt the seat bottom itself so the hinge can nearly store flat under the folded seatback. As a bonus, you can use the seat bottom more easily as a filler without potentially hurting your carpet or bending the bracket. Just flip it 180 degrees and the notch for the wheel well fits around the center console instead! This gives you extra room without completely losing the front seats. One seat tumbled one seat removed. about 20" of space if you slam the front seats all the way forward and tilt them. This gives you 79" (6'7") of space from the closed hatch lid to the rear seat. But then there's a drop off between the seat back and seat cushion and the cushion itself has some mobility. If you just push the front seats back enough you can sort of "jam" the rear seat into this position so it doesn't move, and you have a clean transition from one space to another. it ramps down 5" and you lose 3", but still have 6'4" of space in the rear end to end. I'm planning to have a custom foam piece cut, or just filling it with blankets. For now, I just found a cheap foam topper on Marketplace and threw it back there for reference in this 17" setup. As noted elsewhere, if you remove the rear seat cushion completely, push the front seats all the way up, remove the headrests, and fold it flat - there's 9 feet of mostly flat surface. 9 full feet, no kidding! Insane. Here's the setup with a full sized foam pad. Depending on how you park, if you're able to get away with the parking brake being down, it would be easy to make a platform that extends all the way to the steering wheel. I would suggest elevating the platform somehow otherwise you're going to ruin the front seat bolstering over time, if I had to guess. Anyway, hope this helps someone some day. Here are all my measurements as I was considering having custom foam pieces cut to fit the rear perfectly instead of making an elevated platform with wood, which I am going back and forth on. I can take more on request as I'll be messing around all week with this before reinstalling the rear seats for every day use again.

Hey gang, Over the last 18 months I've really come to love my WD21 Pathfinder! So many quirks and features. If you were going to do a "Doug DeMuro style" review of your WD21, what quirks and features would you point out? I can think of a few, perhaps specific to my SE-V6 w/ Power Package It has a spoiler... haha You can engage the windshield washer without actually using the wiper blades Rear armrests on the outside, and seatbelt clips to keep the buckles nice and organized those LEGO wheels tho My 1992 doesn't have a check engine light... not that it's broken or depopulated, it just never came with one. period. gotta check those blinky lights on the computer! two tier roofline as a precursor to the 1st gen Xterras Old school switch-activated cruise control Gotta press that little button to get the key out - classic japanese style The triple "nostrils" on the grill "hidden" rear door handles Maybe if I collect enough I'll make a 'tribute video' on YouTube.... haha Cheers from sunny Colorado!

Good idea. I think I'll have that done in the fall before first snow. In all honesty, I'm seriously considering a 2021 Bronco, and with already restoring my grandfather's 1982 Toyota, my Pathy might get the boot next summer. This truck is totally complete inside and out, with all the options checked, a fully sorted drivetrain, and once the body work is done... I might do my part to bring attention and value to these badass trucks by throwing it on Cars & Bids. Would really want the rust mitigated first so I'm not passing the buck. I honestly think it could command $5-6k to the right buyer.

Thanks for the notes everyone. I've got an absolute @!*%load of work to do on my Toyota as well so I'm hoping to at least try to address this by the fall. I don't have a welder and haven't welded anything since 2006 but I like that idea of just cutting it all out and using duct tape LOL or at least stripping the interior myself to save the dude some labor. He wasn't comfortable just welding in a flat piece of metal and was more keen on finding a replacement piece, I don't blame him since he's gotta sign off on the safety aspect of the work. But I obviously don't care. The storage box idea is interesting too. Cheers!

Well after 5 minutes, I realized Google did a better job than our native search engine. Looks like I need to inspect, inspect, inspect for more. Fun times. For posterity:

Hey gang, Decided that my Pathy is in too near-perfect shape to let the rust eat it alive. After weeks of calling and searching, I finally found a local shop that is willing to do rust repair. All the shops around here just seem to focus on insurance work and hail damage repair, and I can't blame them! Once I found a shop who wasn't turned off by the R-Word, we did an inspection. The rockers are being replaced wholesale and the rear quarter panel is also getting repaired. I can't do (and am not willing to learn) body work so I think it'll be like $1000-1200 out the door. I'm okay with that. Where the real issue was is the under seat rust. He was thinking somewhere in the $3,000 range due to the amount of labor required to essentially uninstall the interior to clear the working area, let alone finding a replacement patch panel. That quote hurt. For $1,000 I'm willing to pay a pro and get it done right. For $3,000 I'm willing to wait and look for alternatives. While I see this issue called out in the common issues, for whatever reason, the NPORA search engine is failing to show me any threads related to this problem and possible fixes. No topics in the Garage anywhere either. Any pro tips here? Maybe for this one it is worth my time to borrow a welder and figure it out.... thoughts? Rear Quarter: Under seat... worse than it looks too:

In case anyone cares, or for future searchers, I have reached out to a few folks for more info. First, I called Nissan corporate. Not too much help, but the rep did put in an inquiry for any archival info to some relevant group. Not hopeful there though. got a wild hair up my @$$ and ran a carfax (probably should have pre purchase, oh well). Good news is I discovered the timing belt was done 20k miles ago. Worth the $40 many times over since I was gonna make that my next major maintenance. But it did tell me that the car was serviced at a Denver AutoNation dealer many times by the first owner. While the original sale isn’t on my carfax, it seems like a got lead telling me the truck was bought there. That dealer is out of business, so I called AutoNation corporate and put in an inquiry there. Will keep this updated as times goes on. cant imagine many WD21 Pathy owners would really give a crap about this stuff, but hey - with a ton of $10,000+ auctions for nice examples, it could be a nice thing to have on hand for collector value

A recent Jalopnik article references this website to obtain old Pontiac invoices and other info for pre-87 Pontiac’s: PHS Online does anything exist like this for Nissans? Would love to see the option sheet and stuff for my 1992.

That's crazy. I had the cluster out (obviously) and saw one trace "ING CHECK" went to a blank bulb, would be right above the brake light, but just red. Might be worth putting in a bulb next time I disassemble the dash to resolder the joints. Has anyone actually done that? I've found videos on how to check codes on the ECU. Maybe it's better not to have it there, I'm sure it's got codes galore with all the deferred maintenance I'm trying to catch up on, haha.

Well I did end up going full "head slap" but for a different reason. The black connector that hooks up here was jammed behind the plastic bucket mold the cluster sits in, and I basically forgot it was there. Plugged it in, right as rain! D'oh. On a separate topic, where the heck is the check engine light? haha. Sorry to drag this back out of the depths.... Cheers

Getting back around to actually fixing this. I have a regulator unit that looks like this... I ended up just scrapping whatever board is in there and putting a regulator in the same spot as before. Ran a few 9Vs together since the regulator I bought has a minimum voltage of 10V, and it puts out 8V as specified. Put it all back together, and still no fuel gauge. Damn. Maybe FSU. Okay. Let's go for a test drive and see if I can get temps to move. NOPE. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR. This is like the fourth time I've disassembled all this. Here's my issue now... My 92 has a slightly different setup than the documentation I've got to work with. Instead of getting power from the 10 or 8 pin headers, it's from a 2 pin header that's just 12V and ground highlighted above. In the solution2.pdf last page, where I can troubleshoot, it references power from pin A, but those are blank now (since it's from the dedicated 2 pin connector). When I connect my multimeter to the 2 pin header, I get 12V. But when I have it connected to the cluster, I don't get 12V from yellow to ground. What gives? I'm totally at sea here. There's a bunch of blanks, I assume this printed circuit is modular in design, for different cluster designs, and having them blank is a non-issue? Such a bummer that 1992 manuals aren't available anywhere. I'm close to throwing this issue over the wall to my mechanic. I'm going to go check the FSU and temp sensor next and see if I end up slapping my forehead. HARD.

Found some sets online, can get all four for like $650 shipped. Still debating if it's worth it! Sounds like a strong maybe, if I have the cash to burn? I would need to check if the PO even left the harnesses in usable condition first. Time to bust out a wiring diagram.

NPD pretends like it doesn't exist. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/1992-nissan-pathfinder/miscellaneous/console_box.html?Filter=(1=W;2=VG30E;3=SE;4=MT.F5;5=4WD;6=4D;7=FED)&PNC=96910

Here's a photo! From what I gather, it's the "Grey" interior color code. There's some stuff molded on the inside that I googled around a bunch for. Found this on fleabay but still for the life of me can't find a part number. this one also has giant studs on the bottom, mine doesn't. It just slots into the regular center console "bucket" https://www.ebay.com/itm/87-95-OEM-Nissan-Pathfinder-Front-Center-Console-Armrest-Assembly-GRAY-PLZ-READ-/123741806977?nma=true&si=98fauQzKTkB0BXjP3KthLolwMSA%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

Just got done removing the fender flares, brush guard, and tire carrier so I can practice painting the stuff I'll leave on the car (side trim stripes, mirrors, pillars, etc). I have no idea what I am doing but this makes me feel more confident... it's not going to be a waste of time! Wish me luck, and cheers!

Thank you so much for the wealth of information!!! I’ll take some photos tomorrow of the center arm rest / console and figure out the color code. I’m doing all kinds of fun work tomorrow. Got the brush guard off tonight, gonna take off all the black trim bits for a repaint and to do some rust mitigation. Cheers!

Hey gang, Found myself a beautiful 1992 SE that I'm going to slowly revive from the brink. Not much needed - getting a ton of deferred maintenance out of the way, some rust prevention/mitigation, and lastly, searching for plastic bits and bobs (like the cowl inserts and center arm rest, etc) I am replacing the badly worn 235's and want to jump back to the factory 265/75R15 tires. Figured I might as well clean up the wheels as best I can in the process. My truck has all five of the plastic center caps even, all in decent shape! I found this handy site that I'm about to spend way too much money on, and they have a page with all the wheel cap part numbers. Looks like there were a ton of variations depending on trim and build date. Some weird cutoff beginning 07/1992, any ideas what that's about? Either way, I want to either repaint the ones I have or get the correct ones. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/1992-nissan-pathfinder/axle_suspension/road_wheel_tire.html?Filter=(1=W;2=VG30E;3=SE;4=MT.F5;5=4WD;6=4D;7=FED)&PNC=40315 My current truck seems to have the fronts from 07/92 on, and rears from 07/86 to 07/92. Is it safe to say they all fit the rear wheels no matter what since there's no hub there? Is there any info on WTF happened in 07/1992, as tons of parts I'm poking around for seem to have this cutoff date. I can't imagine a truck built in 07/1992 would be a 1992 model year anyway, unless they did things differently 30 years ago. Cheers,

For anyone else out there like myself who are trying to fix this in 2019, the part number referenced in "solution2.pdf" "KA7808" is obsolete. The functional equivalent is now UA7808CKCS. On Mouser here: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/UA7808CKCS?qs=JD1fk4stihZrIzHFneE4ug%3D%3D Cheers

It’s also a manual FWIW.

Thank you is there a diagram for a 1992 anywhere? Or do I just need to play guess and check. The burnt loom has a ton of wires but the good one just has black red white. Wondering what that one controls. Maybe the 02 sensor and the rest is backup light, neutral switch, and ???

The post speaks for itself. What a ridiculously good looking WD21, and I couldn't believe the price... https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1991-nissan-pathfinder/

For posterity, the regulator was most certainly replaced and in working order. The short on the circuit is related to my most recent post, oh joy. I also gave up on getting the damn connector out and cut the wires (whoops). Turns out it was impossible anyway since it needed to be pressed down from the rear with a flathead, which I didn't have room to do since the power wires had no slack. Got it out, added some "extensions" to the 12V and ground wires in case I need to get it out again, and had another whiskey.

Hey folks, Big help last time with my dash regulator in the previous post, it's definitely all working as it should and has been replaced already. So that's not what's blowing the meter fuse. I found it after some flashlight time under the hood. It's the classic "wire melted on the exhaust manifold". Wow does that look like a pain in the ass to fix. It's totally fried. The issue now is that the closest service manual I can find for my 1992 is for a 1994 model, and there is one difference I'm spotting that's throwing me for a loop. Images: https://imgur.com/7l0yR2r There are two wiring looms that travel from connectors on the right wheel well, over the manifold, and down thru the trans tunnel to a handful of sensors all over the transmission. One of them has been deep fried on the griddle that is the exhaust manifold, and has to be the reason my meter fuse is going kaput (see photos 1 and 2 in the attachment). Given the truck runs fine without the fuse working, aside from no dash gauges (who knows what electrical @!*% the P/O did to make that happen), I'm just going to disconnect it and see how she does. BUT that doesn't really solve the problem. I'd like to get things in working order again... I popped into the 94 harness layout and determined these were connectors 1E and 5E (see photo 3). Okay cool. Can't really tell which goes to what as they seem to magically merge in the photo. I go to the wiring diagram (photo 4) and realize why they magically "merge"... because in a 1994, there should be one or the other depending on if you're rowing your own or slushing around. So why do I have two? Even after the meter fuse blows, I still have a working tach (edit: working SPEEDO. Tach goes with the rest of the dash). I see there's a vehicle speed sensor on that circuit, as well as a backup lamp switch, transfer switch, neutral position switch. 4WD also works (not 100% sure if that is what "transfer switch" refers to...). Perhaps the second, non-damaged wire loom is for the speed sensor and 1992 models just had them separated out? I can't find a good photo of a 1994 for reference. the 1991 in photo 5 (from this amazing auction) shows two sets of looms... so... yeah I'm just confused. Any help understanding this is appreciated!