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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/14/2020 in all areas

  1. finished and installed rocksliders with a friends made in metal recovered from work
    2 points
  2. My 97 doesn't sputter as if running out of gas until somewhere around 19+ gallons consumed. I have a Scan-Gauge II which has a "fuel tank capacity" setting to help compute "distance to empty". Even though the fuel tank capacity is technically 21.1 gallons, I set the tank capacity to 20 gallons, because I've actually sputtered to a total stop 2 miles from the gas station when it registered a little over 20 gallons consumed. Even though the low fuel light had been glowing for a good 30+ miles, I thought I could make it because of my trust in the SGII display. Although it's usually pretty accurate, I have to remember that the Scan-Gauge II fuel consumption display is calculated by other OBD2 sensors, not actual fuel use. Anyway, if you refill an empty* tank after pumping only 16 gallons before auto-shutoff, that is much different than my experience. This is why I think it's worth checking the fuel pump pickup or fuel filter. *"empty" means the engine stalled and would not restart because it ran out of fuel.
    1 point
  3. Pretty sure the fuel filter is new-ish. Its located somewhere above the pumpkin right? If so, it's the only shiny thing under the car at this point. Ill have to check the fuel pump. I don't expect to get every last drop of gas out of it, but being starved for fuel at 16gal without the light coming on sure sounds wrong to me.
    1 point
  4. Replace the fuel filter first. Or, perhaps your fuel pump filter is dirty or the fuel pump has become dislodged from the bottom of the tank.
    1 point
  5. I can confirm that a Wilco will NOT work with an OEM hitch because of the boxed end. You need a lengthy clearance. Otherwise it works great. I had one for
    1 point
  6. When I did the 3.3 swap on my Pathfinder, I swapped the intake plenum, distributor, exhaust manifold and I think the coolant pipe under the intake manifold from my original 3.0. I did keep the 3.3 injectors, so that involved rebuilding the engine wiring subharness to let it plug into the main harness and have the connectors that fit the newer injectors and older distributor. The R50 had different plumbing for the heater and coolant lines and the accessories are located differently. I simply used the mounting brackets from Frontier/Xterra VG33 engines and a steering pump from a Frontier/Xterra. My Alternator was from a 90's Quest/Villager and mounted up fine. I still don't have AC, after more than 13 years, but a compressor from an Xterra/Frontier should work fine, might have to get some hoses made to adapt. That let me use the flat multi ribbed belts the 33 uses without going through the fun and games of adapting the 3.0 harmonic balancer. You can either extend the oil pressure switch wire or you can move the oil pressure switch from the oil filter adapter to the side of the block above the starter where the 3.0 has it, and the plug to the filter adapter. Over all, it is a simple swap since the 3.0 and 3.3 have basically the same block and heads.
    1 point
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