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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/11/2020 in all areas

  1. Mine snapped back in Feb, just like that, when @TowndawgR50 had the truck. He can probably attest to the usefulness of it coming down the mountain on the curvy sections of I-17.
    1 point
  2. When I did mine I drilled through the rubber all around until I could get the center section out. Then cut the outer shell with a sazall. It was a pain. Absolutely go with the energy suspension replacement bushings, I believe you leave the outer shell from the original bushing in the frame and these fit inside. Just burn the remaining rubber out with a torch.
    1 point
  3. This is a new one. I assume that sometime last weekend my rear sway bar snapped. It certainly happened sometime after the 4.6 swap. It doesn’t look visibly scratched or damaged, and all the links are attached and in working shape. The axle and shock mounts have some scratches but that’s it. I never noticed a difference highway driving or anything, so I’m not in a huge hurry to replace unless that changes. I’m pretty surprised that the bar snapped before the links, and I can’t say I’ve seen this anywhere on the forum before. I know for almost certain that the sway bar was my travel limiter with the Bilstein 5125’s (29.7” extended length).
    1 point
  4. Next morning my Lund Bug Deflector finally arrived!. I do not like the OEM design but this one is nicer in my opinion. Needed to drill into the hood for it to mount
    1 point
  5. I want my OMEs! Talked to Desert Rat last week, they said they were only allotted 3 pairs in latest order, but one set is mine. Should ship next week, finally. Only other part that still hasn't arrived are panhard bushings.
    1 point
  6. You should do a volt drop test on the starting circuit. Take one meter leed to bat pos, other leed to the crank signal wire on the starter. Have assist crank engine. Meter should read less than half a volt .5. If it is up in the 1-3 volt range or more the problem is not the starter. Repeat same test for the main power cables . Bat pos to starter pos . And then move leads to bat neg and starter housing. All meter readings need to be taken while cranking engine. Pull fuel pump fuse so engine doesn't start. And dont get yourself runover. If it doesn't make sense let me know and I can explain
    1 point
  7. I hope you find "the bike", man. I'm sure you already know how much avid MTBers like myself would LOVE to move to BC! Rode Mt Seymour a few times (I have family in North Van) and Whistler once... you guys have it GREAT! Except for the bacon. LOL
    1 point
  8. Very likely. I bought these recently (BF Goodrich for $105 from Walmart) and they rub (front during reverse turning, back during full load full suspension travel). I guess rim offset matters too. https://www.walmart.com/ip/BFGoodrich-Rugged-Terrain-T-A-Tire-P265-70R16-111T/672705797
    1 point
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