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Drug the kid out of bed and drove up Logie Trail. Not a bad morning.

More talk on the 4.6's... I now have over 400 miles on them, including one full fill up of mixed driving (without going off road). That tank yeilded 14.8 MPG with a mostly moderate or mildly lead-footed driving style. Keep in mind I also have 32x11.5 R15 tires that come in at 56 lbs a piece. 14.8 was a very typical mileage for mixed driving on the 4.3's as well. So, how do the 4.6's drive? Honestly, I thought daily driving would be the noticeable downside of this setup, but in most aspects I prefer DD'ing on the 4.6's. It feel's like there's more power behnind the pedal. The vehicle is more responsive to small adjustments in the gas pedal and just seems more eager and willing to pull. On hills or during highway passing manuevers, the vehicle holds top gear/OD much better and doesn't search for gears- Previously, highway passing manuevers would also initiate a downshift, and then the vehicle would only upshift after letting all the way off the throttle. This doesn't happen anymore. That being said, rev's are definitely up over what they previously were on the 4.3's. 3k RPM will currently get me to about 78-80 MPH, which is up a good 200-300 RPM over what the 4.3's would do @ 80MPH (not accounting for tire size on the 4.3's). A 4.6 gear swap and a 29" to 32" tire swap is almost a perfect match of factory ratio's, so all the rotation based measurements of the vehicle are quite accurate compared to an R50 that hasn't been regeared. Offroad: I now have two tests under my belt (The lokka is still doing great! Makes quick work on alot of terrain that used to require intentional line picking). The 4.6's...... pull the vehicle forward? I don't know what to say, the vehicle handle's good, and "crawls" about as well as I could expect it too. A few times I found myself hung up and in need of some extra throttle to get over rocks - at least with the 4.6's while in 4LO, I could pretty smoothly push the rev's past 2k and start to inch over the obstacle. The throttle wasn't jerky or anything funny.... seems like everything performs like it should. This is also helped by the presence of the lokka, since I'm not worried about wheel slippage as I apply throttle. Makes for an acceptably smooth approach onto and over obstacles.

They’re the same length. The sensor on the snout is the ABS sensor. You can swap the entire 3rd member into your truck as-is. The sensor remains unplugged, of course.

Alas the post I've been striving to get to: Finished product below. So yesterday, I drove it around a bit and by the end of the night I noticed a slight pop/clunk in the rear end that is repeatable by 1) coasting 2)getting back on the throttle instantly. I crawled underneath to triple check my trailing arm bushing bolts and found nothing. Driveshaft felt just as secure as my 01 parked next to it. I noticed I had a worn out rear sway link so I replaced it to find that it didn't fix the noise. Perhaps the noise was always there but not noticed by myself as the old rubber bushing clunk was much louder and more noticeable. I guess I'll have to keep an ear out for it to see if it gets any worse. Also, driving yesterday, the Service Engine Soon light came on. Its a code for the evap system. I had disconnected a hose (reconnected when finished) above the drive strut and zip tied an extended diff breather hose to the fuel filler hose as well. I also blasted the undercarriage and wheel wells really well at a car wash too. So I supposed I either messed up a hose or got water on something that should stay dry. So about the Warn hubs, there was no need to replace the factory studs despite Warn providing replacement studs. Installation was very easy and straightforward. I also noticed on my other Warn hubs from the junkyard, that the gold color on the lockout knob is some sort of transparent amber coating. Soaking the cap in acetone for a night turns that coating to jelly that wipes off with your finger exposing a brushed steel look. I've seen some discussions around the internet about how many people dislike the gold color so I though I'd mention that. So some visual geometry notes I've made about this configuration: The back driver's side wheel protrudes a bit further than the passenger likely due to the panhard bar setup. Not a big deal but you can see it if you go looking for it. Also, the AC coils give some noticeable positive camber. Due to having 26 hours of dad duty this weekend and a limited number of shops that want to mess with non factory suspension, I'll have to wait until some weekday after work to get it aligned with the camber adjustment bolts. I left my running boards on initially because they serve as a decent reference point for height mesaurements but after seeing my 5'2" wife and four year old comically struggle to get in the new height I've decided to keep them on as "disposable rock sliders." If something happens to them on the trail... oh well. Below are some old vs new measurements: As far as ride quality goes, it is now starting to fell a little truck like. It's very startling when the struts slam. I think they top out really easy with the AC coils. I just know my wife is going to accuse me of messing up the front. The transfer case light hasn't come on yet and I've done about 20 miles of interstate driving so far so hopefully the automatic transfer case doesn't mind unlocked hubs. I can't wait to actually get it on the trail later this month. Lastly, you can't have an excessively long post without a special thanks. So special thanks to PathyDude17 for answering weeks of questions

Thanks guys! I went ahead and got my 3rd member off, rusty studs holding it nice and tight. But I got it off without marking up the housing bad and yeah the new 3rd member fits right in and the driveshaft bolts up. Should be wrapping this up with a test drive in an hour or so. Oh yeah that's right, the fancy R200 pathy stuff, they don't seem tooooo bad to take out, I did find a couple pre-facelift pathys with the 4.6 gears so that will be the next mission. And also while my truck is tucked in the backyard I'm gonna be doing more rust repair, fun stuff, I'll have to update my build thread soon.

Carpets came out nice. I need to pull the carpet back out of mine and run the rug machine over it one of these days.

Took the truck home, swapped over the wheel/light bar from the Pathy and started cleaning everything, from de greasing the engine, washing it to carpets etc. also removed the driver side running board with your typical rusting. Considering the rust on it, the rocker panels were in good condition.Cleaned and Sprayed some fluid film) I had a set of non rusted running boards ready but they were silver so it needed to be painted. Removed Chrome Roof Rack Steamed Clean Carpets Sunroof Drain Clean Interior Temp Sensor End of the day

Day 1.... Consist of Changing the Oil and Transmission Fluids and adding additives. i have a good friend who has a shop who i have access to a hoist. i only use Liqui Moly Oil, Transmission Fluid was Nissan ATF. i also get discount there too for parts. Cabin filter was nasty!!!

Slap a second heater core in there and make a warming oven! Hot burritos anywhere.

In 2007, I was looking for a Jeep Cherokee and kept coming up short. Asking prices were too high, AC didn't work, and they weren't comfortable for someone over 6 feet tall. On the way home one evening after I was out looking, I came across this 2001 Pathfinder for sale and bought it that night. I drove it for 9 years, did a bunch of off roading, put nearly 100,000 miles on it, and then regrettably sold it, stupidly thinking I didn't need it anymore. I never was able to make it into what I wanted it to be, but it was always extremely reliable, comfortable, and I got a ton of use out of the cargo space in it. Earlier this year, I was bored and browsing Craigslist and found this 02 for sale nearby for $2800. 150k miles, super clean other than some small cosmetic issues and a little bit of interior wear. It has a factory LSD too! I bought it and spent the next few weeks hitting every junkyard in the area to fix all the little issues. I even found the factory Bose radio for it with a working 6 disc changer and tape deck. With the help of NPORA, I bought all the parts to lift it and overhauled the suspension. It's now sitting on OME springs (MD rear, HD front), KYB shocks/struts, and 265/70/16 Duratracs. It has a WD21 transfer case skid plate underneath and I installed Warn hubs, a CB radio, and a Yakima Load Warrior. I'd much prefer one of the lower profile roof racks in the pictures here, can anyone point me in the right direction to get one? I'm glad to have a good overlanding vehicle again. It's been a lot of fun putting it together. I've been a total lurker up to this point, but thank you all for the mountains of info I was able to dig through to get it to where it is now. Next mods are probably more skid plates and some rock sliders. I also have a buddy selling his 93 XE...so pretty soon I may have two Pathfinders!

That's a really nice looking truck. How minor is the work that needs to be done? Covid is actually the reason I had the time to get my gifted Pathfinder up and running.

There are times it can put more stress on the CVs, but that's not without saying there are certain things to do and not do when you have a locker. For daily use, the stresses are largely negligible...on the street (and presuming locked/fixed hubs), it'll only briefly stress the CV until the rotational speed causes the locker (specifically, a lunchbox locker) to disengage. When off-road, there's some added stress around turns, as the locker won't disengage on slow speed turns with torque applied. This is why a selectable locker is generally preferred since turning when locked can be very difficult, and having the ability to unlock is a benefit. In straight lines, it's negligible. Other stresses from minor turns are usually relieved between the tire and terrain. I'd also say having an open diff is probably more likely to bust a CV than a locker is when off-roading. With an open diff, if a tire loses traction, that CV gets all the torque and free-spins the tire. If that spinning tire then lands on terrain and comes to an abrupt stop, that's a CV-busting scenario. If it were instead locked, the tire speed would remain in control, and even with the tire spinning in the air (at the same rate as the other tire, and potential while the vehicle was moving), so when it lands it won't be stopped abruptly.

Ok heres some pics! The bare nipple on the egr solenoid goes to the hose seen on the air box in the last pic. The bottom hose on the evap canister goes to the nipple on the front of the throttle body where my finger is pointing under the throttle and cruise control cables. The top hose on the evap canister goes to the nipple next to the one where the egr solenoid. I think that sums up all the weird connections but let me know if you need any other pics Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I think the 17” LE wheels (that don’t fit Warn hubs) are 2002 - 2004 wheels for LE models. The 16” wheels in question were for LE and SE models prior to 2002. My 01 LE has those 16” wheels but I’ve seen them in SE models too

Wait until you have to remove the front diff by yourself...haha.

1st test, Lokka Talk: Here's an obstacle that has stumped me twice before by either getting hung up on my sliders or rocker panels. You pick either the rock on the left side or the right side to pivot/bottom out on, and proceed from there. I have a sneaking suspicsion that the obstacle has been rearranged since last summer, but I also got stuck on it in March, and its less likely the rocks have been changed since then. The first time I got hung up in June 2019- I'm a tire rotation away from obliterating my driver rocker panel: The vehicle ends up coming up and over the rocks with the front tires lifting and dropping at seperate times. On open diffs, this obstacle generally wasn't possible for me. We managed to get @micahfelker through without damage, but I couldn't replicate the feat. Adding sliders just meant I got stuck sooner w/o any risk for body damage. With the lokka however, it's a different obstacle. I crawled over this (unspotted) in one slow but succinct motion, pivoting on the passenger slider throughout most of the motion. Sure, if I had the stones I could probably throttle and bump my way up it, but I'd take the lokka over that any day. My sliders are more useful now too-they don't just protect, but they actually now can slide over rocks in certain situations. There are still plenty of ways to get this thing stuck, bottomed out, and immobilized, but I think the lokka will prove to be a worthy upgrade. Steering: It's affected by adding a lokka, don't get me wrong on that. I found that it depended pretty predictably on the terrain and to what extent you had the drivetrain engaged. Obvioulsy, with hubs unlocked you can't feel it. 2WD w/ hubs locked has practically zero change in steering on most surfaces, including pavement and hard packed dirt. Little to no self centering. 4WD High/Lo: Noticeable self centering/resistance in steering. In a ~2hr test run with it, the self centering didn't really let up or lighten much while in 4WD. It's 100% driveable, but its also 100% different than an open diff. The more torque you supply the lokka with (and the less traction/grip a certain surface has), the stronger the steering will get. So, in between obstacles I coasted through turns and supplied throttle on straightaways, and that made it totally driveable. Or if you're in 4HI, popping it in to 2HI works as well. I also wouldn't try to drive super fast in 4WD. The steering got the worst when I decided to try a U-turn on a trail only slightly wider than my vehicle while still in 4LO. It was fairly sandy, and I could immediately tell that my turning radius was diminished under those circumstances. The steering wheel was pretty heavy at full lock, and in the sand (with all the torque available in that gear), the vehicle plows forward through sand as it turns. It turned a ~2.5 point turn into a solid 3-4 point turn. So, if you were in a dire situation I could see how the lokka might put someone at a disadvantage. I was just goofing off and could've put it in 2HI if I was trying to turn as quickly as possible. A little long-winded, but I wanted to give a thorough idea of how it's gone so far and what changes I've noticed. I'll revise any of the above statements as I get used to the lokka, these are just my first impressions. For me personally, I'd call the first test a success. I couldn't necessarily "feel" the LSD, maybe I'll have to test it out in 2WD. 4.6's are good, and the low end torque is nice for all things dirt and rock.