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I'm not sure why your TX10A would've made clicking noises in 4H with no CVs. I've run mine in 4LO with the hubs unlocked many times (great for backing trailers) and haven't heard any unusual noises from it. I had a look at the TF section of the '03 manual and it looks like the system's response may vary by what options the truck has, because the trucks without VDC get front end speed info from the front revolution sensor on the transfer case, and the VDC trucks get that signal from the VDC/TCS/ABS actuator, which I assume gets it from the wheel speed sensors. This might explain why some people have more trouble with blinking lights and pissed-off computers. I don't know what auto mode with the hubs unlocked would do with either setup (and I wouldn't want to be the first pig through that chute), but I don't think I've ever heard of someone's ATX14A actually blowing up because the hubs weren't locked.

Yo @microfiz! Hope you've been well! Strato_54's advice is the approach I'd take, too. Basically make a receiver span directly underneath the radiator support and attach to the existing tie-down points. Take a look at "wrangler front mount hitch receivers" and you see how most of them have tall ears for mounting and a cross-tube at the bottom (something like this). Some of them also have support brackets that would allow for mounting to the radiator support. On our trucks, there are a few unused OE provisions for M10 hardware so a design like that would do well. A design like that also wouldn't be too difficult to remove when not needed.

Glad that it’ll be of use to you! I think it’s great for seeing the process and how all the parts line up. I can’t overemphasize the need for the proper tools and an FSM as well. About a year and a half ago, I had never so much as opened a tool set or done any kind of car maintenance. The lokka is surprisingly easy to setup for DIY mechanics (assuming your diff already has acceptable shims). @Radwaste has a worthy install thread on this forum as well. Thorough reading of that document, as well as watching a Pajero/Shogun install on youtube was great preparation. I did enough research that by the time I was tearing stuff apart, I had to force myself to read all the instructions thoroughly and double check my work. I had to consult some gurus on some/a lot of the technical details, but I hope this video now covers some of the holes that were in my original research. the key part of the install is that inter cam clearance of .145”-.165”. If yours doesn’t line up to that, you need new shims for the axle gears. Nissan doesn’t sell them anymore, and they’re a pain to even find from no-name parts suppliers. I have some on order from March that haven’t shown up, they’ll be available if they ever show up as I’ll have no use for them. Most people don’t need them, but a minority of people do. Other options would be trying to use other R200a shims from other nissans with hopes that they’re the same size. Custom machine shop work would also be an option. Lokka explains pretty well how to use the shims to get proper adjustment, and which measurements should be prioritized. The big deal is just sourcing those shims should you need them. The uncertainty of the shim situation is what made me opt for a spare diff which eventually led to 4.6 swapping.

Woohoo, thanks for the video man I still have very little understanding of what you’re doing because I don’t know much differential internals, so I’ll still need a helper when the time comes, but I’ll be glad to have your tutorial on hand for reference

@mjotrainbrain ‘s QX4

Install video. Not perfect, but hopefully it gives good insight into the process. Its ultimately only a guide, but I followed Lokka + FSM instructions pretty tightly.

Awesome, glad things are good up there and to hear the springs worked out! So, after a little chatting with @R50JR, I think we may build a front mount hitch. It just seems so simple, and I already have all the dimensions for those tie down and radiator support threaded holes from my bumper and skid plate projects. Would just need to CAD the pieces, burn them on the plasma table, get some tube to go in between, and weld'r up.

All 03 and 04 R50’s are HG43. 96-02 are unpredictably HG46 and HG43, including QX4’s. Previous setup was Open/Open HG43, and it was preferable to bench install the lokka in case anything went sideways. The core price on the units were $86/diff, so it was difficult for me to pass up on a 4.6 swap.

Solid advice and Im pretty much going to do what your saying.

for a bike rack like this that 2 inches shouldn't matter unless youre going off road with it. if youre using it to go from home to trail head then it shouldn't be an issue what so ever. i probably wrote half of a little backwards but ig you get the point then thats good. tomorrow i can take some pictures and post them of what my mounts look like for reference. so far have not had any clearance issues but if you did then the unbolting of the brackets would definitely be helpful even if it takes a little bit of effort.

Hi Patrick! All is good (aside from this COVID crap). Your springs have been perfect on the truck... she's running really smooth. My 14-yr old daughter says it'll be her first vehicle. I think that's a wise choice. ?

Fancy! Mine's a lowly Hold-up... a $75 deal. Still kicking myself for not picking up a nice 4-up from Thule at an REI garage sale. $75 too. Ugh.

You know, I just looked at this again and I'm very likely to follow your advice. I may even end up welding (I don't have one but I may have access to it). I also have the raw materials to make this work, although doing this drops the receiver height by two inches. I'll post up when this is done.

I completely agree with you! Desert rat is a great company. I live here in Az and have been into their shop several times and their great guys. Never had a bad experience with them. I’d honestly rather use OME coils from them with a half-1 inch spacer over 4x4

So those wheels clear the strut by quite a bit. I don’t have a picture yet but I’ll post one when I put those steelies back on. The downside is that they don’t tuck in the the rear when flexed and rub. I’m going to hope my upcoming lift will change the geometry to let the tuck but I won’t hold my breath