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If you want to fit 33x10.5 you can fit those stock with little trimming (on stock lego wheels). I currently have those on my 3+3 lifted truck and I could probably fit 35.10.5x15 if that size could be found easily. If I had to do it all again I would just do a body lift and run narrow 33's. Our trucks drive best with a 10.5" wide tire and it won't kill power/fuel economy/steering parts as much. The off road difference between 12.5 and 10.5" is hardly noticeable, maybe if all you did was mud bogging it would be worth the extra wear and tear. I for one won't put that size back on my truck.

Got the wheels back from the 99

If you want to change it. Get Doug Thorley headers (or pacesetters if you're cheap), and build a custom 2.25" exhaust. I wouldn't say it turned it into a race car, but I did notice that it doesn't struggle as much on the highway with bigger tires.

Looks great, but take that awful exhaust tip off!

Wow just came across this old pic. Came a long way from 2015!

??? Look at the links below: Light duty front coils: https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981450-pathfinder-light-duty-front-coils.html Heavy duty front coils: https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981313-pathfinder-heavy-duty-front-coils.html If you look at the SPU's you can infer they're OME coils. If you look at the weight ratings and lift specs in the description, that also matches with OME coils. There's nothing wrong with reselling OME's products. You can buy OME coils on amazon, carid, and on and on and on. Taking a profit off their products? Thats exactly what keeps companies like amazon, carid, and 4x4parts in business..... 4x4parts buying and reselling OME coils is supporting OME...... I don't think ARB/OME is somehow unaware of what 4x4parts is "up to". 4x4parts certainly isn't gaining anything by failing to mention OME directly.... 4x4parts is selling a genuine performance part. Now, those shipping charges, those are something else.

That's what I have done in the past and will be doing to my current truck. You'll need longer travel shocks too. My personal experience is that If you don't beat your rig to crap on the rough stuff it will last okay. Using OEM or good quality Japanese (like TRW or 555) suspension parts where possible helps with longevity. Also get yourself an idler arm brace.

About the only practical change I can think of is to do the Hardbody swap. Swap the headlight buckets and grille from a 90 to 96 Hardbody pickup and then get your aftermarket square sealed beam headlight conversation lights.

Yep my first car was 90 pathy and I was going everywhere my friends couldn’t. Looks like he’ll get the privilege to do the same !

Painted my grill. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

Scraped the snow off her and put the battery on a charger not too long ago. Cant ger much parts because the virus to make my table. Might start working on my 280z woth cheap things.

Got some 12v self adhesive led strip off of ebay and made me an under-hood work light. It's not quite as bright as in the pictures but everything is clearly visible in the dark Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk