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Went to 33" tires on QX4 wheels... Just a wee bit bigger...

Taking some of the hard lines with some local Toyota’s and a sweet Xterra 2x locked on 35’s. Interesting to see how the wheelbases and drivetrains played out. An open/open double cab made it up this waterfall but the 4runner (1x locked) and my borrowed 2dr Jeep (2x locked, although the front locker seemed to not be engaging) couldn’t. The green truck was attempting a different obstacle that stumped everyone who tried it save one other tacoma. Fun day overall. I got a camera for Christmas and have been enjoying using it.

Went to Leavenworth,WA this weekend. Really impressed with how the Wildpeak AT3Ws handled the snow.

I've got Mile Markers on my '93. McBay Performance (online) had the best price at the time. No complaints mechanically but their chrome sucks, most of it has blistered and peeled off the aluminum trim rings. The dials still look alright. I had to modify the hubcaps a little to clear them, I don't remember if the R50 wheels require similar treatment. They were a huge upgrade from my crap-tastic worn-out auto hubs. Your drive flanges are at least reliable, so you may not get as much benefit for the money as I did. Whether it's worth it depends on how you use the truck and what other mods you're planning to do in the future. And yeah, the only real downside is having to get out to engage them. I leave mine locked all winter, so this is only a problem if I get into something I didn't expect during the other half of the year. Even then it's not really an issue unless you're bogged to the frame in pig crap and the pigs have you surrounded.

Playing in the mountains!

I think it’s about time I introduce myself. My name is John and I’ve been a lurker in this Forum for a while. I’ve owned many civics in my days as well as a Infiniti g35 and lowered e39 wagon. I never thought I would own a lifted suv in my life but sometimes things just happen. My father passed away in January and left behind this vehicle. It’s a 2001 LE 4x4 automatic with factory LSD and 135k “babied” miles. We were originally going to sell the vehicle but decided against it. The car is in great shape mechanically and inside with some battle damage outside from the brush guard. My father loved this car and this was prob his most prized thing he owned. He worked hard and spoiled my sister and I growing up but never gave himself anything nice except this car. I know he would be upset if we got rid of it especially since it’s not worth much. Needless to say this car has sedimental value to me. I want to thank everyone on this forum for sharing great ideas and awesome photos. I look forward to seeing more of your builds and being able to spend time wrenching on my own vehicle with my 8 year old son. I plan an taking the car on the Washington discover trail with my family this summer and other adventures. My mods so far include: OME front hd springs OME rear md springs New front struts and rear shocks 15” steel wheels with 31” duratracs All new fluids in the transfer case, transmission, diffs. New belts and pulleys Full tune up Power valve screws fixed Removed the brush guard Retrofit headlights I’m in the process of replacing the idle control valve oring so my ecu doesn’t fry. I also scored a complete rear tire carrier mount that will be installed once it’s a little warmer. There’s also a Rola roof basket sitting inside the car. I’ll be using the conduit mount method I learned from this forum. Future plans include: Arb front bumber Fluerys 1” spacers front and back Full size matching spare Full vinyl wrap Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

IMO, installation of manual hubs is not one of the first things of importance when spending money on upgrades for a stock vehicle. Save the hundred or so dollars and put it to use elsewhere, such as better tires, recovery gear, air compressor, automatic tire deflators, or better camping gear. You may save some money on gas by installing manual hubs, but unless you drive A LOT, it'll take several years to break even on the gas savings. I would recommend installing hubs when you decide to lift it, and factor in the cost of the hubs with the suspension components when you save up enough money. It'll reduce wear on the CV boots.

Alright it's been a long time since I've been on here but the rig still exists in my life but now I'm addressing the huge oil leak I've had for a year or so and always put the job off to the side as it's somewhat a big one for a $20 part. Upper oil pan seal is completely shot with the RMS only weeping just a little bit of oil. Had to remove lots of large components to get the tranny out like the front diff, exhaust, drivelines obviously and other tid bits which add up time. So far got the flex plate off and called it a night and hopefully will resume next weekend. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Yep. With my old truck, if there is snow on the ground, I will usually lock the hubs before leaving the driveway and just shift the transfer case into 4WD when needed. Unless there is damage in the drivetrain, you won't have any issues.

With the R50, no advantage when 4 wheeling unless you have a locked front diff. The R50 uses drive flanges so a very solid and absolutely reliable connection between the axle an wheel hub. As has been said earlier, the advantage is when in 2WD, it saves parasitic drag and wear in the front drivetrain. Older trucks like my WD21 had auto locking hubs that by their design, are less useful and reliable when off pavement so are a good upgrade. I have actually considered getting a pair of R50 flanges to carry in my truck as emergency spares for if I manage to break a locking hub. The auto hubs do lock in both forward and reverse, but there is a short period where they unlock when changing between forward and back. Example, when 4wd is selected, the front drive turns and engages the hubs when the axles turn in either forward or reverse. The hubs then remain locked until you change direction. Then the hubs unlock and then relock. Normally not a problem, but if you are stuck and try rocking to unstick yourself, there is the lag with the front. That tends to cause the rear to dig in and make the stuck worse. Happened to me a couple times. Also, in higher throttle applications and a front wheel lifts, like climbing a hill if you let off the throttle while a wheel is in the air the momentum of the spinning wheel will cause the hub to unlock when the wheel is turning faster than the axle. Then if you get back on to the throttle, the hub will relock violently and makes a horrible bang and can cause the hub to break. Had both types of events happen to me with my truck back when she was new to me a few times, so I was motivated to understand how the hubs work. Also made me find the money for my Warns. Problems you R50 folks won't have unless you replace the drive flanges with the automatic hubs found on the WD21s and V6 D21 trucks.