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Picked up a new toy today!should make a nice addition to the bumper Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, they'll hold it solid. Bigger issue is how you load it and the strain on the transmission, it's not really a vehicle intended to tow at max capacity through hilly terrain for long periods of time. I used my hitch for snatch recoveries off-road a number of times and it never bent a bit or even tried to come off.

That’ll come in handy if you go wheeling with any Jeeps

You’ll be fine with that load. I use mine for towing a lot and it’s very solid.

finally got the chance to do the missing link ! my pipe turned out to be steel as well. used my hand sledge and hammered the ends flat and drilled holes. the 1” flattened out to 2” so i had to grind some away. for once things went smoothly. i also painted the grill black and put it back on and moved my lights down. pics in the morning weather permitting. i would’ve tonight but it’s dark lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Front Runner has a system for it. Looks useful (& space saving) but is expensive & made for expensive tables. I’ve thought about jury rigging my own version. I’m more than happy to have you beat me to it - though it does sound like the table may be more useful as a cargo bag protector for you. https://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/en/us/table-brackets-for-mki-table-incl-latch-rrac097.html

Exactly. Matching a strut spacer height to the SFD spacer height has always been considered the norm...it's just not necessary. And running slightly more lift than SFD spacer height is totally acceptable, as long as you avoid having 2" more lift than SFD height.

I put some Hikari LED conversion bulbs in my Sorento and have been very happy with them. They aimed and installed well. My 93 Pathfinder has some Sealight 9004 HB1 LED bulbs in it and they are working great. The lights have never worked so well and I haven't had anybody flash me with them. Now the yellow aftermarket LED fog lights from Nilight are painful to look at even at midday, so I don't run them much as a courtesy to on coming traffic.

Finished 1 complete 3" prototype kit as well as a partial 3" prototype kit and sent them off to AZ today. In the process of making this initial batch we've invested a lot of time into fabricating fixtures for the assembly and welding processes. This ensures our kits are consistent and allows us to be much more efficient. Looking forward to the coming weeks as this has been a lot of work and time but the passion for this project only grows daily, doubly so with good weather finally creeping in here and camping season on the horizon!

Had a look at the service manual and it doesn't look like you're gonna find both turn signal wires in one place unless you go all the way up to the dash. The wires to the rear turn signals separate into the left and right body harnesses and run separately to the tail lights. Some vehicles have everything together in one convenient harness, but this ain't one of them. Just run a wire under the trim at the back of the cargo area.

I don't think any of the wires you've found on those boxes/relays on the driver's side feed the passenger tail lamp/turn signal. I could be mistaken, however. If you are looking for a definitive answer, you can use a multimeter or test light to see which connector or wire gets +12v when you activate the right turn signal.

Yes, Alex is spot on. Your cv’s up front are designed to operate within factory geometry, which basically from full compression (at the bump stops) to full extension (strut top out). Putting a lift coil inside your strut assembly may increase the frequency that you hit that top out, or full extension of the strut, but even with the increased angles your cvs are still within the stock operation angles that they were made to function within from the factory. With spacers, however, since you’re moving the entire strut assembly down 2,” your cv’s can now extend to your struts full extension PLUS that 2,” causing them to bind up and break. Yes, the angle that the cvs sit at on the road are gonna be equal, the problem is with actual off road use they can drop passed the angle they were made to operate within if that makes sense. That aside, we’re all human and all make mistakes regardless of who’s right or wrong. Everyone’s trying to just help each other out here and sometimes things can get miscommunicated, so let’s try and keep the personal attacks off the forum. We’ve got a really great community here of a ton of awesome folks.

Redpath88's link above still works for me. It's not Terrano-specific but covers the engine pretty well.

Seems like as good a place as any to set this down...