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Sorry, what I'm saying is that I doubt the small amount of power that's keeping the dome light dimly on would be enough to trigger the relay. It takes a certain current through the coil to close the contacts, and if the smart entry thingus is leaking so little power that it barely does your dome lights, I doubt it would be enough to keep the relay engaged and the undercarriage lights on when they shouldn't be. 9W at 12v would be 0.75A, x2 is 1.5A. If you've swapped the rest of the circuit to LEDs I'd be surprised if you didn't have the headroom for that. The reason I'd tend towards relaying them is just to keep the circuits separate, so that if the lights below the vehicle got damaged and shorted out, the blown fuse wouldn't take out your dome light as well. Does seem overkill for those tiny lights, though, unless you're going full Fast and the Furious under there.

Just to show how annoying Nissan can be. I too have an ‘02 LE (2/23/02 Manufacture date), however, unlike[mention=40509]Pathy_02[/mention] grill, mine is more than one piece. Ugh!

sfcreations.com, there are threads all over about this, just search the site for sfcreations

Some shots from a November trip to Anza-Borrego and the Salton Sea. Great time, but pretty sure it accelerated my control arm bushing disintegration...

I solder/shrink just about everything. When tapping into a wire, I usually either cut the wire (so I can slide the shrink wrap on), strip it, and solder it back together with the new wire included, or cut the insulation in two places with the strippers, slit between the cuts with a razor, then peel off the insulation and wrap/solder the new wire around the bare spot. The trouble with the second way is that you can't get shrink tube over it, so you're stuck using tape or liquid schmoo; the trouble with the first is that the original wire gets shorter, which isn't really an option if it's part of a harness. Look for the shrink tube with the glue inside. It melts when you shrink the tubing, sealing the joint against moisture and preventing the tubing from slipping off. I think it's the marine grade stuff.

Reverse lights are easy, no drilling required. Just pop off the taillight and tap into the wire to the reverse bulb. There's enough clearance space back there.

Right on. Easy test is just pull the dome light down and rig up the connections. Should light up fine. My pod installs are in the liftgate, there are some details in the link mjotrainbrain posted earlier. Your access point will depend on your placement of the pods and length of wire. There are few grommets on under seats, trying to run through those might be an option to save from drilling new holes.

Ha, yeah, those specs must've gotten lost in the shuffle while everyone had these grand visions of undercarriage lighting. If you're just talking about a pair of these, tapping off the line shouldn't be a problem at all.

Doubt that'd be a problem. I've added 3 LED pods to the dome light wiring without issue. The relay approach is if you plan to add a fair amount of extra lights. I interpreted rock lights to be a few LED strips mounted all around the vehicle, and in that case, it'd probably work just tapped off the wire, but a relay would be the better approach.

For what it’s worth, I’ve run 3 different LED set ups in my dome & cargo light without any dim lighting of the LEDs (I have this effect in the driver door light of my wife’s MDX - though not the other 3 doors [emoji1744][emoji3603]) It sounds like your goal is really puddle lights. Rock lights are usually undercarriage so you can see in front of your wheel in the dark, & sometimes behind & inside under the truck with the right placement. Upper fender mounting just causes shadow where the rubber hits the ground, which is counter productive. Once my major stuff is done, I’d like to install some. I’ve needed to spot rocks & obstacles in the dark countless times. Once I do that I might even put an undercarriage camera as my new radio has 2 camera inputs & I’ll often have to spot myself.

We only have one option here & it’s mounting system isn’t that great. I own them but I’m waiting on hawairish as he is working on a better mount system due to his dissatisfaction with his own. Oh yeah & they’re expensive!

IIRC on the round-dash trucks it's the light in the power/EAT switch that flashes. Been a while since I had my '95. I think it's the power light on the dash in my '93. Anyway, yeah, something should be flashing LOL. The big bulbs in the cluster are 194s. I don't remember what the little guys are, though.

I don't see a PhotoBucket stamp on my end, interesting. I assume it's a giant watermark that spans the whole picture? I think some rock sliders would look way cooler than steps.

Yup. Love my carrier. Given that it wasn't reinforced like the earlier R50's I'd say it held up extremely well. I came off a ledge and the entire weight of the truck, rear axle at full droop and tires off the ground, landed on the hitch and tire carrier which shock loaded it. Almost the whole rig was supported by the rear carrier. It damaged 1 rivnut and bent the surrounding sheet metal.

Just as a side note: the o/d light flash sequence is the way to get codes out of the transmission computer. There is an easy procedure in the FSM to follow, along with the descriptions of the codes and possible causes of them. But yep... probably a bulb ( I think it's a 194 that goes in there).

How many R50s is too many? Dad's, Girlfriend's and mine... Haha I need to put my running boards back on soon too.

Ok maybe not as on-topic as I had remembered, but may be useful info if you end up deciding the dome light doesn't supply enough power and you have to set up a dedicated circuit (but then you run into the issue of it not coming on when you unlock...maybe there's an extra fuse slot that's part of this circuit? Or perhaps you could run a separate circuit that's powered all the time but only activated by a low-power line from the dome light circuit via a transistor or something? Again I don't have a ton of knowledge of electronics so kinda shooting in the dark/brainstorming.).