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After years of chatting about our own Pathfinder projects—and often, grumblings about having to make our own parts or hack together something—it’s become clear that Jacob (@TowndawgR50) and I (Patrick) have a common passion for our trucks. We’re always bouncing ideas around and sanity-checking each other’s work, ultimately realizing we have highly complementary skill sets that extend beyond working on trucks. We’ve also grown tired of a serious lack of aftermarket support for our trucks, especially when there’s an obvious demand to keep them on the road and make them more capable than they already are. To counter that, we’re teaming up to fill that void. That’s right: it’s time to turn a hobby into a business! In the weeks to come, we will be making more announcements regarding the status of the company (still working on the name!) and our product offerings. We’re still in the early stages of the company formation, and have some challenges ahead of us (most notably the 1,400 miles that separate us!), but we’re ready and stoked to get the word out there. If any of our individual projects have piqued your interest, then our collaborative efforts won’t disappoint. Our initial focus will be on subframe drop (SFD) kits, as this is the most important component required to move beyond 2” of front suspension lift. Unlike prior versions of kits that have existed, we intend to offer complete kits and à la carte components in multiple heights—including strut spacers—to support various lift configurations. Our particular focus is to provide high-quality finished products that simplify installation for the average DIYer (hint: strut disassembly not required), and without having to replace aftermarket components you’ve already purchased. While we won’t go into detail about all the products (and services) we’ve been discussing, we will tease that trailing arms and panhard bars (both in static lengths with poly bushings, and adjustable lengths with rebuildable joints), skid plates, missing link, and bumper brackets are on the product roadmap. That said, we’re looking forward to a productive 2019, so stay tuned!

Hello NPORA, Location: Kitsap, WA Vehicle: 2000 SE Vehicle Notes: 2nd owner as of Oct18, purchased with 237k miles Hi all, I've been trolling the forum for a couple months now and have finally decided to join in. I currently have an '18 WRX, but after moving to the PNW I found myself in need of a good forest road exploration rig so I started the search. Stumbled upon a great condition single older owner R50 that has provided a great base to build upon. The first month was spent doing the usual- oil/coolant/trans/transaxle/front-rear diff/PS fluids, all three accessory belts, fuel filter, battery, and a good headlight polish. After that I moved to replacing some stuff: - turn signal housing (1) - fog light (1) - cat-back exhaust - broken power antenna to fixed 6" stubby Since then I scored a ~5' roof basket which mounts great to the OEM rails and will come in handy for fully loaded camping trips in the future. I'd like to integrate some ditch and camp lighting into the basket and take advantage of the blank switch spots in the dash. Current suspension is okay, but aged: *RR: 31.25" (Factory Spec: 33.31) *RL: 30.50" (33.31) *FR: 32.00" (32.09) *FL: 31.25" (32.09) Therefore as of Nov2018 I have the following on order: - LR Defender springs for rear (P/N: NRC9446) - KYB GR-2/Excel-G for rear (P/N 343379) - OME HD springs for front (P/N: 2928) - KYB struts for front (RockAuto P/N: 335031/0) - KYB strut mount/bearing/boot for front (RockAuto P/N: SM5329) - Camber bolts for front, (RockAuto P/N: K90474) Anyway, I'll photo dump below. There's lots of upgrades in the future like LED gauge cluster lights and a rear drawer system, but I'm taking it slow. I'll trail run it and as I find myself needing things I can add to it. I'm in the Kitsap, WA area near Seattle so if any of you local PNW Pathfinder nerds need a hand or want to meet up I'm down! https://imgur.com/a/PiQG7TO

The option for LR springs is truly a great example of what these forums can produce, definitely looking forward to the install. Depending on the trail difficulty, I'd be down to join in on a trail run, would be a blast! I have experience snow driving, but my vehicle is currently unmodified so I'd have to take that into account. All though I do have A/Ts in the stock 29" size so that helps.

+1 on the Ozarks. I’m a native Kansas Citian & that area was the best regional outdoors unless you drove a day to CO. The Ozarks are Karst topography which is unique to there & a place in China. That’s what makes it go up & down at such steep grades. Down by Johnson Shut Ins is where I rekindled my love of the outdoors in my 20s. Also hit the Ouchitas in OK & Big Bend has n Tx (very far away)

Welcome! I think you'll love the LR springs. I couldn't be happier with mine. Super grateful to @Bax03SE for bringing these to light Like @RainGoat mentioned, we are lucky here in the PNW with a solid group of active NPORA members that continues to grow. There is a potential for a December gathering/trail run. Not sure where/when its going to end up but would love to have you join the next meetup.

Hello all. Nice forum, congrats! Next year i'm planning to do a trip around South America with my family, but i don't have the truck yet, and i have always loved Pathfinders. This days, i have seen that a 2001 SE ( 5 speed manual) 122.000 miles, that is published in my country. I was reading a lot, to learn about pathfinders, but i would like to have a little help of you prior to go to see the beast. Do i need to take care of some special thing? Rust? where are the most common rust spots that can give me an idea of the truck health? Another area is the transmission. Is there a test to do it to check if it's working fine? I've never had a 4x4 truck before, so i'm a neophyte on that....i have had lot of cars, but never a car like this one. Any other tips, on what to take care on my first inspection is welcome!! Here a picture. Thanks a lot for your help!

^ notice the mud. The spacers on the front means I throw a lot of mud and it can come in the window. If you plan on actually wheeling then lift, trim 33 is a very good thing to do. Bigger tires are the only way to lift the diff. Don't go up in wheel size, just go up in tire size. A deflated 15" has more foot print than a deflated 16" which has more than a 17". Also because we can't really lift our trucks armor is a good idea. Full skid plate including diff cover set with rock/super sliders. At least it is in the Ozarks where I wheel.

The FSM procedure for checking fuel pressure has you hook up the gauge between the hose coming off the filter and what looks like the rail, so yeah, I'd say that's your high-pressure supply side. The engine wouldn't notice. The fuel lines are not what limits fuel pressure to the engine. The fuel pressure regulator regulates fuel pressure in the injector rail and sends the excess back to the tank. And that's not limiting power, that's just making things easy for the computer so that however many milliseconds of injector pulse equals however much fuel injected into the intake manifold. IIRC the guys who've turbo'd these used higher flowing injectors and pumps to keep up with the increased fuel demand. I don't think the hard lines would become a limiting factor unless you were running the twin V8s from the Immortan's Gigahorse or a Boeing jet turbine or something.

Did... Did it take 4 years to figure that out?

The manuals in the R50 are great and don't have problems if driven properly. Clutch should be ok assuming previous owners knew what they were doing with it. My 02 5 speed with 150k miles is a smooth operator and I LOVE driving it. I think the most critical rust spot to check is in the front where the strut top plate bolts to the frame/body. For the engine, biggest thing I think is the possibility of oil consumption. Unfortunately there's not much you can go on other than the owners word. It seems to be hit or miss as to which trucks have it, and there's not a definitive answer as to why it occurs. The general consensus is keep it topped up. But that's the biggest gamble in my opinion when it comes to deciding to purchase a VQ35 R50. There are engine updates between model years, hopefully someone else can give their input as to the significant ones. That one looks to be in good shape and with low miles. In my opinion if it drives good and doesn't make any weird noises then it could be a winner.

Thanks to all I didn’t think about the heat method. I was planning on using the flex seal family of products to seal the holes lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm definitely scoutin' for you all out here. I've spent quite a bit of time out in the Cushman area, and so far that's my favorite as far as somewhat more rugged forest roads (therefore no people). I've been using GaiaGPS lately, but I also have a lot of loops/trips planned out in Google Maps from before. I'll definitely check out your notes above and when I get a chance I'll compile some to share as well. That's a bummer, it'd be nice if they allowed volunteers to help clean up the road if the obstruction/damage is smaller. I'm sure some of the old loops could be broken up. @RainGoat, I'm prepping to do the WABDR sometime this spring/summer, have you done it?

I spent most of my time in the area around Wynoochee lake. During the winter, most of the fs roads that get close to the national park are closed to create a de facto wilderness buffer around the park so no evil people disturb the poor little elk. The current, and previous, rangers for that district have pursued a plan to make the nf roadless. They only maintain the three main roads and will close the other roads at the drop of a hat. One neat trip that made a loop around three peaks close to the border of the np was closed permanently due to a small slide. When people volunteered to remove it, the answer was no. So unfortunately most roads that are still open are in and out, not many loops left.

Worked on extending the wiring a little tonight. I'll finish the install this week and post up more pics and how to.

I won't deny that we've talked about one of those items in significant detail.

The rear window on mine is roughly 20" tall, 55" along the bottom, 47" along the top. The sticker might just fit if you scoot it down a little, but it might be obscured somewhat by the spare tire, not to mention blocking your view out the back. I also imagine the rear wiper would chew it up eventually. What about the rearmost side window on the driver's side? No wiper, no tire, and it's not blocking your view of anything. Edit: Side window's way too short, nevermind.

Leave the Frontier, too!

Yep, I ordered mine on a Friday afternoon & they were on my porch Monday morning. We could use some recon of the East/NE of the Olympics. Lake Cushman is one of the few areas of WA that’s still on my ToDo list. There’s some good stuff on the N side of the Olympics but I’ve had trouble finding good camping on the NE/E sides. S of the Olympics is pretty flat & boggy.@Citron lived SSE of the Olympics & might have a few pearls of wisdom. Here are some if my notes re potential routes (some of it’s unverified so I’d appreciate hearing what you learn): FSR 23 from Shelton to Quinalt through the mountains. The area E of Quinalt is kind of interesting & has camping - plus camping along the lake just W of Lake Quinalt Lodge Deer Park campground & Obstruction Point Road. Lake Cushman. Just north of the lake is the Washington/Jefferson Pass region. Lots of service roads to explore through the hills. Can cut back to Brown Creek to camp, or find dispersed camping in the hills. No "wheeling", but access to remote routes and beautiful scenery. Couple good looking spots to camp which may have views of Lake Cushman. NF 400 all the way up near the end has a pull out that is over 2600’ with a view. 23 up by brown creek, continue to 2348 & 2365 where there is another vista like pull out.

It's probably fine. I'm actually running 0w40 in my wd21 right now. Great cold start flow, and runs like a 40W at temp.

not sure if you mean "how do limiting straps works" or "is this setup working for you" ?? 1) limiting straps, limits the travel of your suspension just a tad so that it does not hit the maximum... So I cranked it between 1/4 and 1/2 inch before maximum extension 2) The top out has been eliminated. works very well