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You'll probably know it as "high pinion" (reverse cut) and "low pinion" (standard cut), much like the reference on Dana axles. The pinion line is either above or below the centerline of the ring gear. Rotation's all the same, but the teeth on the gears are cut in opposite directions. R200A from an W/D21 or W/D22: R50 R200A: In general, high pinion is best up front, and low pinion best in the rear due to gear mesh. But fck Nissan for making the R50 the only high-pinion R200A application. The short answer is they can't be (easily) swapped because they are mounted to the truck in completely different ways. The long answer:

I appreciate the open arms! lol talk to me about this reverse cut stuff. ive never really understood it. As for the differential itself, whats limiting me to sticking an xterra full front diff in place of this one?

I recognize that X from the Nissan SAS group. Welcome back. All R50s are 33-spline...but the problem with 4.9s is that there isn't a set that fits the front axle. R50s have reverse cut gears up front in the R200A; W/D22 are standard cut. You're limited to 4.6s, and hopefully that's what you already have.

Scored this little 96 about 3 weeks ago. guy said it had an overheating problem with 223k on the dash. Drove 3 hours to check it out and it looked promising so i got it. 5speed 4wd, clean interior, not alot of rust thank goodness. But come to find out the headgasket had pushed out on cylinder 4 so tore it all apart. Upon having it all tore down cylinder 2 and 6 had some pitting in the cylinder, so took a 3 stone hone to it and tried to clean it up the best i could. few lifters were a little beat up but we are gonna run it as is. Get it all back together, and it fired right up. Throttle had a bit of a hesitaton when you blipped it but ran fine when you barley got into the throttle. Come to find out MAF was no good. Stuck one in from my Xterra and she runs just fine. Unfortuently the trans may be bad, gotta get it out and check the counter shaft bearing in the front, being its howling pretty bad on de-celeration. worst case i source a wd21 trans since the gearing is better. Plans are to source a SFD and get some 33s or 34s under it. Question, being a 96 is this thing 31 spline or 33? cause id like to get some 4.9s in this thing also Anywho lets see how this thing goes https://imgur.com/a/BbKLrpJ

Dakota Digital made a device that I used in my first R50 for adjusting the speedo, but it had a problem where it freaked out when the input and output signal were the same. It was more designed to handle vastly different speedo sensors to speedometers...like 2000PPM on the sensor side and 60,000ppm on the speedo side. Some motorcycle speedometer correction devices seem more focused only going up or down 7% or whatever you are off. Those may be looking into. Motorcycles are almost ALWAYS 5mph faster on the gauge then you are actually going, which pisses me off to no end. The tone rings on the rear axles would have been tight, but cool to be able to build something like that.

Okay, I am too old for this. Put everything back together, finally...after lord knows how many days, and I believe the new water pump is leaking. Either from the weep hole or...I guess the weep hole. Why did I stop drinking whiskey again? Man.

Hey everyone, the rear diff in my Pathfinder with 235k miles hums pretty loud on the highway between 50 and 70mph and is now making noises at lower speeds. I also hear a growling noise around 20-30mph when slowing down. Recently, when putting the vehicle into drive or reverse, I hear a clunking noise. I had someone shift gears while I was underneath the vehicle and I visbily see the driveshaft rotate at the diff. Nothing is shifting at the tramission mount and no noise is coming from there. I was thinking of purchasing a 3rd memeber and swapping it out without removing the entire assembly. The plate under my hood says HG46 for the differential and I found one on ebay that appears to be in excellent condition and is also an HG46. However, this one is from an 01-02 frontier 2WD (there is also a plug connector on it, which mine does not have). Will this swap into my vehicle? I read online that the HG46 axles had 31 splines pre 2000 and 33 splines post 2000? Thank you

Absolutely! Justification for my hoarding

Nice when the junk collection provides!

So, I pulled the original Z24 out from under my bench. This was a runner, but smokey when I swapped it almost 20 years ago. One piston (#3) had bad rings and ring lands. Bores however, cleaned up nicely with a hone. Waiting for parts now. Will get new pistons, rings, bearings, timing chain/tensioners, oil pump. Have a reco head here on the shelf. The KA24DE swap can wait for now.

I'll be doing mine when I replace the rad support. Might see if ol' daddy nissan still sells em. Had really bad luck with aftermarket parts lately. Also planning on converting my square tooth 91 engine in my 95 to the proper teeth.

I was wondering to buy on X-Bull winch... I am designing an under the bumper tray and install the winch... So, does some one have experience with X-Bull winches? I am looking at the X-Bull RSX 13.500lb ($407 Shipping and taxes to Colombia), or the XPV 10.000lb ($286 +Shipping and taxes to Colombia) Thanks.

I was wondering to buy on X-Bull winch... So, Still have it? How's the winch holding up? Thanks.

Word. It was definitely a cam seal, and it was certainly unreturnable. Of course it has been 200k since I last did this job and my goodness that extra $80 in seals, hahaha...wow. PVC pipe certainly helps tap the RIGHT crank seal in, but geez....

a lot the AT tiers these days are amazing, unless you drive in bog holes AT tiers will do the job you want 90% of the time I put set of falken wildpeak at3w on mine and I love them.

Hey everyone, I've been searching online for aftermarket recovery options for the R50 Pathfinder, but I haven't found much. The only thing I came across was some recovery hooks https://meanmother.com.au/collections/tow-hooks/products/tow-hook-yellow. Has anyone used these before? If so, how do you mount them to the front, and are they effective for front recovery? Aside from creating something in CAD, I can't find any other options.

Not able to upload photos with insert image 2" AC coils with 4" SFD, kyb struts, missing link, LR RKB101060.C8 about 6 inch rear lift, Bilstein 5125 33-185569, Warn Hubs, -3.75 backspacing, 33x12.5R15 Duratrac Wrangler, tire carrier with full size spare https://imgur.com/gallery/AIvp4br

I had this happen before too. There seems to be multiple seals listed as cam/crank for this engine. I ordered 2 cam seals and they were different, only one fit. Of course they gave me a hard time about returning the one that was wrong.

That'll do it!

That didn't exactly go as planned. Took her out Saturday and had a big end bearing or gudgeon pin failure, so time for a rebuild or heart transplant

That happens. I managed to do that with the rear wheel seals. I don't know how I did it, but I couldn't exactly return them. Took me over a year to actually do the work after accumulating the parts to do the job. So by the time I finally got to it, it was... well just another delay. But then, it was all apart with no real excuse not to get it done. And Then... lets not forget finding debris in the pinion after putting it all back together.... which led to a whole different thread on something that I had never done before

Okay, so I figured out why I was having such an issue. It was the wrong seal. Sigh.

I believe I used a short piece of iron pipe to drive it on since an oversized socket isn't an option.

This car just keeps on enduring. It's hardly been used since our son was born 18 months ago, so I listed it for sale. (I have a dual cab D22 now) My wife found out and told me I had to keep it, and in hindsight I see that she knew I wasn't ready to move her on. So, the old girl gets another reprieve. I am going to make a more concentrated effort to use and enjoy her, as well as fix a few of the small niggles that I have allowed to creep in.

I don't remember doing anything special with mine, but that was a while ago. A piece of PVC that fits over the crank might work for a driver tool if you can't get it to walk in.