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Pathfinder Common Problems/Fixes, Read this first!


88pathoffroad
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I have one my pathfinder simply refuses to warm up or for that much put out much heat out of the heater. I have a friend who also has a Pathfinder and he has the exact same problem his is a 94 mine is a 88. I also have a new thermostat installed, fresh coolant and I just can't figure it out for nothing.

 

THERMOSTAT:

Been there, done that...

 

Yeah, I bought my '95 in November of '06, noticed the lack of heat when a cold wave came and it stayed -5F for the whole month...tried replacing the t-stat and IT DIDN'T WORK!!! After freezing your but off that makes you a bit unhappy.

 

FIX:

I ended up going to a dealer to fix. It ended up that when I installed the new one it hadn't seated properly and it bent when I tightened the housing back on. After they swapped it everything was fine. IT REALLY SUCKED TO SPEND ALL THAT TIME IN THE COLD TRYING TO FIX IT, HAVE IT NOT WORK, AND FREEZE FOR THE REST OF THE WINTER!!!!!

 

At least I'm warm this winter.

 

Hey, there is no post about the hard shifts at the beginning. I've been searching about that and found vague answers, pretty much that it's normal. Can you include that tip (even though it's not a fix).

 

SPARE TIRE CARRIER (AND POWER ANTENNA):

3 in 1 oil.

 

I never used the stuff before, but after applying 3 in 1 oil every day or two for a whole month the tire carrier loosened up and now is perfectly fine, just like new.

 

I've been doing the same for the power antenna and it keeps improving. I cleaned it off with ultra-fine steal wool and keep putting 3 in 1 on it and now it will go down if I turn the radio off, on, off, to allow it a second try :-)

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  • 5 weeks later...

Hello,

 

I'm helping a friend who just bought a 1995 Nissan Pathfinder SE. It has issues with the instrument gauge cluster - temperature gauge barely working, fuel gauge working sporadically, and tachometer not working or sticking and sometimes working fine. I've put a tester on the battery and the battery handles the load test within specs and the alternator is putting out voltage within specs. I'm suspecting it is the instrument cluster voltage regulator. However, when I called the local Nissan dealer they weren't sure if the 1995 Pathfinder SE had a removable regulator on the instrument cluster -he had to have the VIN. I provided it and he said it does not have it and the fuel/temp gauge would have to be replaced. I asked if there was an integral voltage regulator somewhere in the gauge cluster and he said no, but this didn't make sense. My questions are if there is a voltage regulator permanently attached to the back of the cluster, would it have the same 3 colored wires as on the solution2.pdf file and run at the same 8V, and would this also impact the operation of the tachometer? If it does could I apply the same fix you did in the PDF? Or is there a voltage regulator integral with the fuel/temp gauge?

 

Thank you guys! Your forum has been really helpful.

 

Bill Maloney

Wayne, NJ

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Hello,

 

I'm helping a friend who just bought a 1995 Nissan Pathfinder SE. It has issues with the instrument gauge cluster - temperature gauge barely working, fuel gauge working sporadically, and tachometer not working or sticking and sometimes working fine. I've put a tester on the battery and the battery handles the load test within specs and the alternator is putting out voltage within specs. I'm suspecting it is the instrument cluster voltage regulator. However, when I called the local Nissan dealer they weren't sure if the 1995 Pathfinder SE had a removable regulator on the instrument cluster -he had to have the VIN. I provided it and he said it does not have it and the fuel/temp gauge would have to be replaced. I asked if there was an integral voltage regulator somewhere in the gauge cluster and he said no, but this didn't make sense. My questions are if there is a voltage regulator permanently attached to the back of the cluster, would it have the same 3 colored wires as on the solution2.pdf file and run at the same 8V, and would this also impact the operation of the tachometer? If it does could I apply the same fix you did in the PDF? Or is there a voltage regulator integral with the fuel/temp gauge?

 

Thank you guys! Your forum has been really helpful.

 

Bill Maloney

Wayne, NJ

 

Well I bought a very well used 87 Pathfinder last Thursday. It is in excellent condition, and everything works just fine. I do have a hard rattle in the back. I assume after reading your posts it is the tire carrier. I will look into that this weekend. The vehicle has 235,000 miles on it, and every option still works. One fo the tabs for the moon roof is broke off, but I think I can make something that will work. I am litterally amazed at the quality and excellence of this vehicle. One rattle in the whole car, seats are near new in condition, paint and body the same. No one believes it is 22 years old.

 

It has made me a very happy camper. It is saving my FJ a lot of wear and tear on the road. Less miles on the new one, but I enjoy the Pathfinder damned near as much to drive.

 

Thanks for the tips.

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  • 4 months later...

Hi all, heres a problem im having, i have an 87 with the z24i engine, runs great, idle, not so great, the idle runs up and down like someone is playing with the gas pedal. Any Ideas would be much appreciated. I bought a manual for it, but it doesnt cover this motor very well.

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Hi there, welcome to the board... although I don't know what the answer to your question is, I have two suggestions... first, introduce yourself in the welcome section... a little hello, my name is, and my pathy is... Mom told us never to talk to strangers ya know! Also, I would suggest posting your question in the garage section - you'll likely get a lot more views there. Start a new thread with a descriptive topic name and you should get some help.

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Hi there, welcome to the board... although I don't know what the answer to your question is, I have two suggestions... first, introduce yourself in the welcome section... a little hello, my name is, and my pathy is... Mom told us never to talk to strangers ya know! Also, I would suggest posting your question in the garage section - you'll likely get a lot more views there. Start a new thread with a descriptive topic name and you should get some help.

 

 

Good advice, sorry to be rude. I just thought this might be a common problem.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Hey all,

I am looking at picking up a used first gen pathfinder. I don't care much for the look of the second gen and can't afford a third gen. Right now I have a 95 Ram 1500 I am trying to get rid of. It's a blast when you want to haul stuff or run someone off the road but it sucks on trails and doesn't fit in a lot of places. Anyone have any special pointers on what I should look for and/or check as I go car shopping?

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If the timing belt fails or slips, your valves go tappity tap on the pistons. This is known to cause serious problems. If you keep up on the timing belt replacement intervals, the odds of it happening are slim indeed so don't worry.

 

Here is my input. Get a 94-95 if possible. The timing belts are rated for 105k miles, not the 60k change intervals of the pre 94. You also get a nicer dash and hopefully, less milage on it.

 

What to check for:

1) Rust!! Under the back seat, the rear frame, especially around the rear tires. If it has it bad, don't buy it unless you like welding and it is very cheap.

2) Timing belt and general maintenance. If the PO can't prove (you don't trust) the timing belt has been changed per schedule, assume it must not have been. It isn't too hard but takes some time. The general scenario is to replace the water pump, thermostat, bypass hose and sometimes the cam seal(?) at the same time so you don't have to go there again.

3) Front end issues. If it has been wheeled hard or driven carelessly there may be many front end components needing replacement. This can get expensive...

4) Automatic trannys- They need the stock (radiator) coolers bypassed (prone to clogging). Look for a truck that has an aftermarket tranny cooler. If there is ANY wierd shifting (especially reverse), walk away. These autotragic trannys are expensive and don't necessarily rebuild well. That said, many members have auto trannys with many miles that work flawlessly. Take care of it and don't buy a lemon.

 

Then there is the whole condition of the truck, testing EVERY feature, even the autolocking hubs, general shape and milage VS price. These are good vehicles and ther are a lot of them. Don't rush and if you are hesitant, don't buy. I've seen some members find sweet deals by being patient. I'm sure others will chime in with things I missed.

 

Good Luck!

 

B

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  • 1 year later...
  • 3 months later...

hey im trying to lift my girlfriends 94 pathfinder but we cant find a lift kit anywhere for it except for calmini or whatever theyre called. is there somewhere or someway inexpensive and effective to lift her truck other than a torsion lift? where can i go to find a body lift?

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anyone have pcitures of those bump stops or the bolts that get loose i would like to fix that sqeaky problem when myback out of my driveway lol. Also where is the best place to get those door clips(mine lock and unlock on their own)? nissan?

 

possible these 2 are related? mine does the locks/unlocks by itself but seems like you can unluck any of the doors when it does that they all stick down like the motor is holding them down.

Power Door Lock Actuator

 

We found one of ours was defective when manufactured. I suppose I could have tried to get a free repair or replacement, but it was less hassle to fix it myself. It involved reseating a piece of circuit board, and repairing the traces on the board that had been worn through. Many people report success fixing this problem by simply removing the switch and cleaning the contacts inside.

 

Power Door Locks locking or unlocking on their own

 

Sometimes during cold weather, hot weather, or just for no reason at all, the power door locks will either pop back up after locking or stay locked without letting the lock cylinder turn and unlock the door. The mechanical assembly connecting the lock cylinder itself to the inner door lock and armatures are mated by the use of small plastic parts that wear out and then break over time.

Edited by edicer2
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  • 5 months later...

Just want to add one thing about the broken exhaust manifold studs, I didn't see this mentioned and if it is I'm sorry, the reason the studs break from what I was told is due to the exhaust manifolds warping, so if you do have a broken stud, The FSM recommends removing the manifold and checking the surface with a straight edge, if the surface is not straight the studs will most likely break again. I also read somewhere a long time ago that some people were upgrading the studs to one larger size, I read where someone mentioned a fix using 300 XZ TT studs but I don't know if they are a different metal or larger.

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  • 1 month later...

I have a R50. I read your problem areas. I am curious about a noise I'm hearing. It sounds like a wind noise.

 

At first I thought it was the roof rack on the top. I have yet to try moving the bars around. Then I read the break problem.

 

I was wondering if the noise was a constant? or it was when you depressed the breaks? thanks.

 

Hoping it's just wind noise.

 

Thanks

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  • 5 months later...

i believe it's worth note: many with a 90-95 wd21 i have spoken to in person out here in this great state of az have broken their doorhandle off. myself included. it's a helluva tight squeeze of a fix but otherwise easy enough once you're in the door frame. the pin that you must fit into the handle itself and on the other side, the releasing mechanism for the latch.. well, it will fall the hell out. a lot.. at least mine did. i used the same sized hose as i have coming off my charcoal canister's topmost port(the smallest hose on the thing) and.. well, got sorta rednecky.. the pin is pretty much an L ... well, fit the hose over the smaller post-angle part and lit the sucker on fire and let it melt some. then put it out.. it seems solid enough. will update if i hear that dreaded clangy noise again, though.

 

on the plus side, i can field strip my door in just under four minutes. hahaha...

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  • 2 months later...

WOW. I wish i had read this sooner. I've been fighting with my stupid check engine light for years now... if this works I'll.... well, i don't know what i'll do but I'll be just about the happiest girl in the world!! -bounce-

 

How did the replacement cap work for you?

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That post is almost 6 years old and I do not recall that person being active on the site so don't hold your breath for a reply. Perhaps searching that persons name will garner results... :shrug:

 

B

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  • 8 months later...

On Wednesday, my girl told me that the she heard and felt something pop and hit under the truck. Then it started that wobble with the scary shake as she was coming up to speed at 50mph. driving local will still give it the wobble but not the shakes. I jacked it up and noticed that the front sway bar links bushings were blown. I could wiggle them by hand with the pressure on them. I also noticed the tension rod bushings destroyed, but were there. Yesterday, I was able to replace the front sway bar bushings and links. After a test drive in my local area, bumpy roads, the path was a smooth drive. I even drove it into the drive way like she does, and stiff as a rock coming in. so I thought it was fixed (no license, so no test drive at 50mph).

 

This morning on her way to work, she told me that the truck started to shake and wobble uncontrollably again at the 50mph. so I told her to come back home so I can take a look at it. Only other thing that I noticed that needs replacing are the outer tie rods, tension rod bushings, upper ball joint on both sides.

 

I have read the entire page and have done a forum search and a google search. Yet I cannot comprehend the front of the truck shacking with the steering wheel and yet have to do with the pathfinder trailing arm bushings. Going to look at the rear end of the truck today and see what else. In the mean time, any help from you guys would be very greatful.

 

Thanks

Tony

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Your tension rod/compression rod/1000 other names bushings being scrap will cause your vibration because they do kinda hold part of the lower control arm TO the truck, as will your bad tie rod ends because they are a small part of the steering system, and it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the bad ball joints either since they have a hand in holding the spindles to the truck. Primary front suspension/steering components are just that, primary. Don't ignore them :aok:

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found the problem as it started pouring cats and dogs... busted tension rod. missing the backhalf that bolts to the truck. will post pictures later. now to the dealer to get them.

 

thanks for the info as well. that helped out in looking.

Edited by DarkDragon
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  • 7 months later...
  • 6 months later...

I have a question about the exhaust manifold studs breaking thing. I think that my 94 Pathfinder has that problem. Does the ticking keep pace with the engine rev? Mine has the ticking sound when the engine is still cool and quiets down when the engine warms up. However I can only hear it when i accelerate and it ticks faster as the rev goes higher. If it is the exhaust manifold stud problem. Does anyone know how much it usually cost to repair it if you were to take it to a shop? Just so I know what kind of prices to expect. Any info would be helpful thanks.

it actually sounds like valves and not the exhaust manifold. try any valve medic first if it persists u may have to adjust the valve lash or it may be worn out springs or the valve need to be seated properly.
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