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That retainer damage doesn't come from high mileage...someone's had fun with that truck. Can't say I've seen a set as bad as those. Replacement pieces aren't available from Nissan unfortunately. Nothing stops their reuse, but with all the parts all hammered like that, it's probably just a matter of time before something chips off and causes more damage. I need to rebuild some LSD units soon (possibly this weekend), so I might be able to free up a replacement set. Remind me...did you end up putting an open 4.363 diff in the truck temporarily? Or is your truck down right now with this diff out?

+1 on timken and using a brass punch/rod to knock the races out. I used the old races and big sockets to hammer the new races in. Pretty cheap on rockauto, think I paid around $80 for all four.

When I replaced mine, I knocked them out with a brass rod and knocked the new ones in with the cheapest eBay garbage bearing race installer tool I could find. Pretty much just some aluminum disks with a handle. I also used aftermarket bearings. I don't remember what brand I went for, but certainly not the cheapest available. If the bearings aren't damaged, just loose, you could just clean/repack them. My old ones looked mint--I only replaced them because I was tracking down a bearing noise and really hoping it wasn't coming from the rear axle. (It was.)

I have no problems with most aftermarket bearings. Timken are good and an OEM supplier. For the races, all you really need is a brass or aluminum punch to drive the new ones into the hubs. You can use steel to knock the old ones out since you are not worried about damage to them. Once you clean the grease out, you will see that there are notches where you can put the punch to knock out the old races. The screws that lock the nut are soft, so easy to cam out the phillips heads. I find an impact driver works well to loosen them without damage. Biggest challenge is to find the socket that fits the nut. The socket for an early 90s Isuzu Trooper is easier to track down and works fine.