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Alright, this is crazy, but my dad just showed me a picture of the pathfinder that we owned when I was in elementary school. I kid you not, this is the pathfinder in the junkyard with the new style carrier that I just shipped to @Astrorami. The badging, trim, everything matches, including the fact that it had a tire carrier (looking for more pictures of it), but as of now, I have every reason to believe that my family has twice owned that rear tire carrier assembly. Pretty crazy, lots of history behind this

Regarding the panhard drop, this is what I did and it’s worked out perfect. These pics have been hanging out on page one with my original write up. I moved the panhard bar lower and to the right within the existing bracket and drilled a new mounting hole. This won’t work if your going more than 4 inches or so in the back. But for the lift levels most of us are running I think it makes sense. I have about 3 maybe 3.5 inches of lift and this has my rear axle sitting dead center where it should be. The old mounting hole is circled in yellow for reference. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Overheating may have contributed to pump failure, but I suspect the pump running dry after that hose failed probably did more to kill the seals. I think I put a Gates pump in mine, it was a while ago though. Replacing the fan clutch while you're already in there wouldn't add any work and might save some aggravation later on (nice to pick when you replace something rather than waiting for it to fail), but I don't think bolting an old clutch to a new pump is going to bring all holy hell down upon you. I reused my fan clutch haven't had a problem with it. If it goes, I'll replace it, but I'm sure as hell not going to tear the timing apart again to replace the water pump at the same time, unless it's due for one anyway or I have some reason to suspect that the pump itself is compromised. As for one component wrecking the other, maybe if the clutch is horribly out of balance it might hurt the pump bearings, or if the pump bearings are shot they might... I dunno, rattle the clutch to death? I'm not sure how they'd support that claim. Maybe that "rule" came from frustration with people bolting a roached clutch to a new pump and complaining that the pump must be defective because their car still overheated. Either that or it's BS from the marketing department. That's usually all you get in a product description.

Howdy, My name is Brian and I just bought my first Pathfinder. It is a 1994 White SE Automatic. I have a 2006 Titan that I ran out of things to modify so I am going to use my Pathfinder a restore job that is capable off road but remains visually stock to use as a daily driver. I bought it last weekend for $1,600 with 194,000 miles. Check out my Titan below which I call my Hardbody Titan. I used WD21 hood vents and a 1987 D21 Nissan 4x4 emblem on the grille.

Oh but the picture you're talking about from way up there in the thread was with no spacers. I put those in later. Got them for free so figured why not. I still can't recommend any spacer that's over an inch though

Do you have a picture of the cutoff line/glare?

Just to give you a quick answer, when I talked to Micah, he's got a 3/4" spacer up front, and then everything else is like you said.

Ordered a new cluster from ebay. I will let you know if that fixes mine.

I’ll spray it with some rust penetrate then get them with an impact wrench, thanks for the reminder!

Yea I did, could be feasible with a low profile sub but I really like that storage for my small tool bag and my snatch strap so I may leave that the way it is Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well crap, that sucks. I had a look at the service manual and it looks like the VSS signal does go through the cluster before reaching the ECU, so it is possible something in the cluster has gone out. I'd start at the sensor to make sure that's good (should be if it's brand new), then check that the same signal is present where its wires hook to the cluster. Looks like the wires are a straight shot there (with a couple connectors), so you should see the same signal at the cluster that you do at the sensor. You may need to wrap a thin piece of wire around the leads on your meter to poke into the connector. The speed sensor has a white wire and a red wire, and those colors continue to the cluster, though they're in two different plugs just to be that way. Looks like it's pins 42 and 28 (pin layout shown on EL-39 of the '95 manual). Then there's a white wire with a blue stripe in pin 7 that carries the speed sensor signal to the ECU, but given that the speedo's not working, it sounds like the signal's stopping at or before the cluster--probably no reason to check the wire to the ECU. If the cluster is getting signal from the sensor, then that points at the cluster. I've heard of people clearing up tach issues by cleaning and tightening the brass screws on the back of the cluster, no idea if that would help here but it's worth a try (they're electrical connections). If not, the problem's in the wiring between the cluster and the sensor. Hopefully it's not that, wiring issues are a pain. One odd thing is that one diagram shows the VSS as a reed switch, but the diagnostics say to spin it quickly and look for about 0.5v AC, which isn't how a reed switch works. I know my '93 has a reed switch (it's in the cluster on mine, because square-dash trucks have a mechanical speedo with a cable). If the 0.5v AC isn't showing up, you might try putting the meter on resistance, which is how I'd expect to test a reed switch (on/off as it turns). Don't use a test light, reed switches aren't really built for current. The good news is that the cluster's not that difficult to pull. Been a while since I had a round-dash but IIRC it's about the same as the earlier models: a couple Phillips screws holding the bezel in and then four more around the cluster itself, and then a bunch of electrical plugs. Helps to adjust the steering column down as far as it goes so you have room to work. The ECU code checking procedure isn't too difficult (once you wrap your head around it). Might be good to confirm, but I'd be surprised if it told you something you didn't already know at this point.

Go with this one. Cheap on amazon, free shipping with prime. And links up great. Use the torque pro or car gauge pro app with it. If you go with the car gauge app you can do the self learn and idle volume learn with it as well as adjusting base timing by plus or minus two degrees https://www.amazon.com/EDIAG-Diagnostic-Scanner-Adapter-Android/dp/B06Y5YFQ63/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?crid=U1PZKWTGF6Z2&keywords=elm327+bluetooth+obd2&qid=1550515792&s=gateway&sprefix=elm32&sr=8-16

If I was gonna pull the pump off a truck this old, is probably replace the fan clutch too.

Went joy riding to find a few waterfalls with the kids on this gloomy North GA day! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Also I'm probably gonna be swapping out all my lift springs from my red Pathfinder to the tan one and getting longer ones for the red one. Once I pull the trans from the tan one (should be this spring, or whenever it warms up) I can give my old stuff to whoever may want them. OME HD with kyb's up front and 9447's with ome shocks in back. Probably gonna go with 9448's like @Jax99 has in the back and still deciding on the front

The 9446 is like half an inch taller than the 9447. If you go with longer shocks it's probably in your best interest to extend the brake lines and diff breather tube, but you can get by just fine without them if you aren't gonna max them out all the time

I guess we're due for an update, right @TowndawgR50? Things are moving along! Albeit, a little slower than we anticipated perhaps, but we're still at it. SFD designs and costs have been our primary focus, but we've not limited ourselves to discussions about other great ideas. We're making some initial hardware and material purchases over the next few days, as we're both anxious to get some prototypes made now that designs and numbers on paper (er, digital paper). We've given a significant amount of thought to the strut spacers in particular; I was tweaking the CADs for them tonight, actually. They're definitely a departure from what many are expecting. Behind the scenes, we've been in contact with several members who've expressed interest in kits already, and we're stoked about that and absolutely appreciate the support! We've also added a new tool to our arsenal (it arrived today actually!): a finger brake press. This will allow us to put some structural bends into plate, which opens the doors to a few additional design and product options. Lastly, we've been mulling over a company name since the end of December, but one particular name has grown on us and we've been informally using it. Can't share it yet, but I can tell you it's not HawDawgs.

I'd be interested to see how much those LCA mounts actually shift around without a missing link. Make a collapsible missing link (one piece of conduit sleeved over another smaller one or something like that), rigid enough that it doesn't flop up and down but free to slide so it's not providing any actual bracing. Rig a Sharpie to one piece, with the tip resting against the other piece, and then take the truck out for a rip. If the mounts move relative to each other (movement the missing link would prevent), the Sharpie will draw a line the length of the total deflection. Then crawl back under and measure the length of the line. (Or mount a GoPro if you have one of those laying around for a better look at what's going on under varying circumstances, not just the max deflection.) That could make a compelling case for/against this mod.

Here it is in all its glory. Took just over an hour of labor mainly due to taking and marking measurements/test fitting. Only thing I highly and I mean highly recommend is to have some sort of air impact wrench if you can because those bolts were frozen. Other than that fairly simple. Decided to use 3/4 EMT but I may have a version 2.0 in the future with just a flat stock bar like CNAM’s. The only reason I didn’t choose this to begin with was because I definitely don’t have the tools to drill through a 1/4in piece of solid steel. After having driven around the block I’ve noticed no huge improvement but body roll has seemed to improve pretty noticeably. Maybe feel like I can take corners faster? Im sure for most people the placebo effect is at play but I think it’s worth the what $10 max you might pay. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your right shoe starts to melting on long drives hahahah