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UPDATE: FIXED!**NEW VIDEO** Starting problem


ninoj
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It is a possibility. You've got the new 99, right? I'll see if I can find the procedure for testing the CPS and if I can find it, I'll post it.

That would help alot!

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Is this the timing check?

 

- Air conditioner off

- AT in Neutral

- Start engine and warm up fully, do not exceed 1000rpm

- Open engine hood and run engine at 2000rpm for 2 minutes under no-load

- Perform diagnostic test mode II (no idea if this is required)

- Run engine at 2000rpm for 2 minutes under no-load. Race engine (2000-3000rpm) two or three times under no-load, then run engine at idle speed.

- Turn off engine and disconnect TPS

- Start and race engine (2000-3000rpm) two or three times under no-load, then run at idle speed

- Check ignition timing with a timing light (crank has 5 marks, 0,5,10,15,20) should be 15 +/- 2 BTDC.

- Adjust timing if necessary by turning distributor after loosening securing bolts.

- Turn off engine and reconnect TPS

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if it's anything like the earlier gen moce II is Mixture Ratio Control Monitor which is probably where you're having issues.

 

not sure if your truck has tbi or injectors but normally, in the supply line there is a bicycle type valve (shraeder(sp?)) where you hook the guages on..

 

not sure if zone will do the diagnostic mode II for you.. ask them.

 

from what i have read a few times now is that you guys can do the screw flipping thing too without having to connect to an external device.. something about above the pedal.. hard to access but doable..

 

oh yeah, check for spark at the plugs.. also pop hood at night and see if there is a light show..

Edited by mzxtreme
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I'm at a total loss here....fuel pump maybe?

 

Might be time to enlist the help of a mechanic.

Thanks for your help! I am going to tow this puppy to the dealer.

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Unless you have a warranty on your 99.5 why are you going to take it to the stealership??? I am sure there is a mechanic around you that works on nissan and will probably not charge you nearly as much. then again i do not know your situation, all i know is i always read about how people take their pathy's straight to the dealer... i would only do it if i had a warranty. but that is just me. besides any mechanic will be able you run the codes for you then if it is something like simple you can replace it yourself, i guarentee the dealer is going to tell you all kinds of crap you need but probably really dont. sorry i will get off my soapbox now i just hate dealerships the screw you any chance they get.

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So I called a flat bed tow truck and had it towed to the dealer. They replaced the AIT air intake temperature sensor and said it should be fixed. The car started and didn't shut off while I was driving. I will post the results after a week of driving.

 

Here was the cause they gave:

 

Sensor was showing -45C in cold temp and 220C in warm temp. The engine was burning too rich and thus was flooding itself and giving some crappy mileage.

 

Total cost $150.

Edited by ninoj
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I was pretty skeptical of their quick fix, and I was right. It seems the problem is still there. They removed the error code but it did nothing to fix my initial problem.

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I know this is extreme but I the same problem years ago with a Pontiac and after 3 mechanics changed every sensor possible I took it to the dealer and low and behold it was the "computer" that was no good. Good thing for me it was still under warranty. Point being mechanics like to just start replacing sensors and hope it works.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am dying without a ride. Man, it sucks to have car problems. I got a friend working there as a mechanic so I am positive I won't get dinged with a storage fee.

Edited by ninoj
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So I was at the dealer and it wouldn't start... What a surprise, they couldn't figure it out. Now I am up to whoring it around to every mechanic in town.

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