lowrider Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 SAS'ed guys say they often wish they were still indy, especially with the terrain here (not alot of rocks) Indy guys (including me) bitch and moan about clearance, traction and articulation. Keep in mind i'm planning on driving it everyday still and going to Moab next may. So, share your thoughts. The choices are: The save till the winter, maybe a second job for a while $10,000 SASification: Toy diff's front and rear, either a flipped front with the nissan t case or (more likely) a divorced toy t case with a 2wd nissan tranny. Locked front and rear. Crawler gears. 33"s or 35"s. The be broke till winter (but not have to save), $5000 Indyfication: IFS. old man emu (or another high quality sus. lift). ARB air locker up front. L&P or Calmini steering. Lockright rear locker. Crawler gears. 2" BL. 33"s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kn0xville Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 id just do her up as much as can be with the IFS. you can get a lotta toys on the pathy for the half the price of a SAS job. If your gonna wheel somewhere where ground clearance is a must.. go buy a cheap jeep and lift that for a few hundred bucks and trailer it with the pathy... just my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 I'm curious where you managed to come up with costs of $10K for SAS and $5K for a built IFS. That's insanely high, to say the least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted May 11, 2006 Author Share Posted May 11, 2006 (edited) Indy: Tires/Wheels $600-$1000 2” Body Lift $150 Rear Locker $400 Steering Kit $400 Front ARB $1,250 Suspension Kit $825 3.8:1 Crawler Gears $1,200 Total $4800-$5200 SAS: Toyota Axles $1000 Rear Locker $400 Front ARB $1200 Toyota T Case $250 Crawler Gears $650 Nissan 2wd Tranny $500 Labor including suspension $3500 Steering and Driveshafts $1500 Tires $1000 Total $10,000 I am quite aware that you can do a D44 SAS swap for under $5000, but I’m not interested in going down that road. And I’m not buying a Jeep (bought one new in 97 and snapped axles just thinking about going off road) or some POS full size, etc. Edited May 11, 2006 by lowrider Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 SAS'ed guys say they often wish they were still indy, especially with the terrain here (not alot of rocks) Indy guys (including me) bitch and moan about clearance, traction and articulation.. Build a new lower IFS frame and hang it from leaf springs, then you have IFS with some of the articulation of a solid design Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 (edited) SAS:Toyota Axles $1000 / Toyota T Case $250 Buy a wrecked '79-85 Yota.. lots of parts (Axles, TCase, rear and/or front driveshaft if geometry works out. etc) and less money Rear Locker $400 / Front ARB $1200 You can get a LockRight for under $250 (280CAD) ARB up front? Why not another mechanical locker? BTW ARB's can be found for WAY less than $1200, How does $734(822CAD) sound? Trail Gear Or does your price including the extras? Crawler Gears $650 $399 - $449 (467-503CAD)Marlin Crawler Steering and Driveshafts $1500 *Depends on the amount of custom work required* Many create their own steering setups... If a Toyota HiSteer/CrossOver setup can be used they range in price... here is one for $349 (391CAD) Front Range Off-Road At this point I have to ask... Why not just buy a solid axle Toyota ('79-'85 Truck or an '84-'85 4Runner) and toss a V6 in it? Or an '88+ Toyota V6 and throw a SA under the front? *If a V6 is what you want* You can get the kit needed to mount the axle to the frame for around $200 (224CAD) (not including springs, steering, axle, etc) Edited May 18, 2006 by RedPath88 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 don't put a front locker in it, you'll just break axles. IFS, my rig drives like a new truck.. do it right and you'll love the SAS. You don't have to go so big as i did but if you used a waggy front on leafs, you could do it all pretty easily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 You don't have to go so big as i did but if you used a waggy front on leafs, you could do it all pretty easily Bingo, thats my goal... :cool2: B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 I'm assuming those are Canadian prices, Red...so really....its like $34. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 Good point Dan... lowrider, I forgot that you were in Canada Post revised with the addition of Canadian values Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted May 19, 2006 Author Share Posted May 19, 2006 Good point Dan... lowrider, I forgot that you were in Canada Post revised with the addition of Canadian values It's not the dollars, its the shipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 It's not the dollars, its the shipping. And the Duty..... Though, can't you get the parts in Canada cheaper than with shipping and duties from the US? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 Build a new lower IFS frame and hang it from leaf springs, then you have IFS with some of the articulation of a solid design Hey.... That's along the lines of something I've been playing with in my mind. I still GREATLY prefer IFS for the handling, ride quality, and safety on the street. But have been sketching and dreaming about ways to allow the center member to twist and droop on demand, and in a controlled fashion. The patent race is on! If you stick to your leaf springs, we will not be in conflict. But if you start playing with pnuematic springs and actuators, well, then we may be converging! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 :o Enginerds wet dream! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted May 19, 2006 Author Share Posted May 19, 2006 (edited) And the Duty..... Though, can't you get the parts in Canada cheaper than with shipping and duties from the US? Not even close buddy. MSRP for the lockright, for instance - $350 CND ($318 US) plus $20 duty (that's right, on a part you buy in Canada) plus $30 shipping (this is from a store remember) plus $28 GST (goods and services sales tax) = $428. To buy it yourself and pay duty, shipping, VAT, and brokerage from the US is about the same. We get f*cked living here when it comes to buying anything. What do you pay for gas right now?? We pay $1.04 per liter * 3.8 liters per gallon = $3.95 per gallon, yes that's in CND dollars, but last i checked, i get paid in CND not USD. Edited May 19, 2006 by lowrider Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 I dont know how much I pay for gas. I put my card in the machine, and pump till it stops. Look at the gallons purchased, hop in, calculate my avg economy, reset the trip odometer, and drive off. I find that if I pay attention to gas prices, it pisses me off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted May 20, 2006 Share Posted May 20, 2006 Hey.... That's along the lines of something I've been playing with in my mind. I still GREATLY prefer IFS for the handling, ride quality, and safety on the street. But have been sketching and dreaming about ways to allow the center member to twist and droop on demand, and in a controlled fashion. The patent race is on! If you stick to your leaf springs, we will not be in conflict. But if you start playing with pnuematic springs and actuators, well, then we may be converging! Although that was a joke, it was based in reality as I have run several ways of doing it through my head.. not just leafs This is something that I have thought about for a long time... also a 4WIS setup (See your not the only one who thinks IFS has some worth) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted May 20, 2006 Share Posted May 20, 2006 (edited) Lowrider, are you near enough to the border to make a trip down? And if so do you know anyone down here you could have the items shipped too? Now if you can do the above, would the cost savings be worth it or would they charge you at the border? As for gas... you pay about 3.53USD which is not far off the 3.10-3.30that we are paying down in my area. I have heard that some places around here are even above that angry: Edited May 20, 2006 by RedPath88 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 20, 2006 Share Posted May 20, 2006 I still GREATLY prefer IFS for the handling, ride quality, and safety on the street Ok, reality check. Handling: yes. Ride quality: yes (same thing to a point). Safety: no. You drive a vehicle within it's safe operational threshhold. If a solid axle means you don't handle as well, you drive accordingly. If you don't, mount a large cow catcher up front (the SA will carry it NP). I'm SASing due to my own stupidity (mangling the front end) and an autobody shops crappy work (straightning things 1/2 assed and repeatedly). My pathy handles like crap, rides like crap and gets pushed around by every wind and rut. Otherwise it's a 95XE with 120k that has a straight body, good interior and runs like a champ. If the front end was straight, I'd go with the L&P set up. As is I have 2 choices. Sell it as is for maybe 1/2 of what I payed not 2 years ago (not counting repairs and improvements I have done) or SAS it. While solid axles have their drawbacks, I fail to see the safety issue... Quite honestly, I'd prefer a tight solid axle set up to a loose IFS system which happens all too easily. Didn't someone total (roll) a nicely set up HB not too long ago due to steering issues and a cross wind ? How many complaints have been heard here about crappy steering and front suspension ? WD's that drift and pull all over ? Not to turn it into a pissing contest, but I'd feel better having a solid, reliable front end that is not as responsive than have a front suspension that performs well until anything other than smooth asphalt is encountered. It is a truck, and I treat it like one. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TopOfTheLine89 Posted June 15, 2008 Share Posted June 15, 2008 Im in the same boat as lowrider. IFS is all crapped up and I want to wheel it hard. how much money is it to SAS. how hard and where do I get parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted June 15, 2008 Share Posted June 15, 2008 Do some searching here on this site (and perhaps others) you will find out what options exist for axles and suspension setups. You'll also get a basic idea of the pallpark dollar figure. Plus, perhaps the biggest benefit of reasearching the proccess is that you will learn a lot about it, what is required in parts, time, work and skill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 Ballpark: $2000 minimum. I've seen $5000 SAS'es... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
packie88 Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 what 88 said 2 grand minimum but expect to pay way more. if you want places to buy stuff pm me im in the middle of doing mine and can give you more information or answers to your questions. ive spent just over 2200. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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