1992 WD21 Pathfinder SE front axles, bushings, thxs?

[RustFlames]

I redid my inner and outter bearings on mine years ago and ended up cross threading the threaded washer behind the hub on the spindle. the threads have cutouts on 2 sides where the other brass and nickel plated washers seat, I pulled one out of a junkyard and ceramic coated all the hardware, and powdercoated the rest. One thing i suggest is to note the orientation of the spacers, torque your spindle nut to spec, on the back of the knuckle theres thread holes you can shoot penetrating lube into to help with dissasembly. Another thing I haven’t seen mention it’s the needle bearing at the back of the knuckle, Im not sure what tool you can use to remove it without destroying it, but installing it would be easy, if the bearings aren’t pitted or oblong I would just leave it. it centrilizes your Cv axle when 4wd is engaged In your hub. Slap some grease in there and send it


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[92SEPathFindr]

On 5/5/2023 at 2:18 PM, RustFlames said:

I redid my inner and outter bearings on mine years ago and ended up cross threading the threaded washer behind the hub on the spindle. the threads have cutouts on 2 sides where the other brass and nickel plated washers seat, I pulled one out of a junkyard and ceramic coated all the hardware, and powdercoated the rest. One thing i suggest is to note the orientation of the spacers, torque your spindle nut to spec, on the back of the knuckle theres thread holes you can shoot penetrating lube into to help with dissasembly. Another thing I haven’t seen mention it’s the needle bearing at the back of the knuckle, Im not sure what tool you can use to remove it without destroying it, but installing it would be easy, if the bearings aren’t pitted or oblong I would just leave it. it centrilizes your Cv axle when 4wd is engaged In your hub. Slap some grease in there and send it. 

Thank you RustFlames!  Your work looks amazing and is how I would like mine too, super GREAT!!  I also appreciate your experience about thwe washers, threads, bearings, etc.  That's valuable input to me.  Thanks again and best regards, Aaron 

[92SEPathFindr]

Well friends, I have really appreciated all your feedback and tips and advice. Yet the bad news is my 92SE still sits without any of the work being done.  Even with your encouragement and tips, I haven’t made the jump to do what I can handle and so nothing has been worked on yet.  I took the pathfinder up to a big local shop and they looked it over.  My need was to have the front axles replaced and then I added that any suspension/bushings that needed to be replaced would also be good to have.  There must be a fun phrase in the mechanic’s world for, “yeah, we’ll do it and you’ll REALLY pay a pretty penny too or you can take it somewhere else!!”  The shop quoted $5600 for axles, control arms, ball joints, steering gear, valve cover gasket, tie rods, idler arm, and center link parts and labor.  None of this would touch the VG30E engine knock/ probably bearing issue.  So, for now the 1992 sits again…. Maybe I’ll sell it, maybe I’ll find a way to do most of the work I can when we move to a larger yard.  Not sure about the future for the 92..  in the meantime at an auction I picked up a 2004 Nissan R50 which also needs an axle boot and some suspension work but pretty much everything else is working and in good repair.  So thank y’all again very much and here’s to the new and old pathfinders out there surviving!  
best regards, Aaron 

[hawairish]

11 minutes ago, 92SEPathFindr said:

Well friends, I have really appreciated all your feedback and tips and advice. Yet the bad news is my 92SE still sits without any of the work being done.  Even with your encouragement and tips, I haven’t made the jump to do what I can handle and so nothing has been worked on yet.  I took the pathfinder up to a big local shop and they looked it over.  My need was to have the front axles replaced and then I added that any suspension/bushings that needed to be replaced would also be good to have.  There must be a fun phrase in the mechanic’s world for, “yeah, we’ll do it and you’ll REALLY pay a pretty penny too or you can take it somewhere else!!”  The shop quoted $5600 for axles, control arms, ball joints, steering gear, valve cover gasket, tie rods, idler arm, and center link parts and labor.  None of this would touch the VG30E engine knock/ probably bearing issue.  So, for now the 1992 sits again…. Maybe I’ll sell it, maybe I’ll find a way to do most of the work I can when we move to a larger yard.  Not sure about the future for the 92..  in the meantime at an auction I picked up a 2004 Nissan R50 which also needs an axle boot and some suspension work but pretty much everything else is working and in good repair.  So thank y’all again very much and here’s to the new and old pathfinders out there surviving!  
best regards, Aaron 

You in AZ?

[92SEPathFindr]

4 hours ago, hawairish said:

You in AZ?

Hey hawairish, Riverside county California, Hemet area not AZ.  Moving to North San Diego county soon.  I started buying some basic tools so I can do more mechanical work myself so I can afford repairs/maintenance, etc.  or also maybe a mechanic who wants some under the table weekend work.  My R50 looks all stock to me front and rear suspension and it’s real floaty and the back bottoms out easy.
cheers and take care.   

[Frenchy]

With the little experience I have with the R50(it has been a few years BTW) I can say that they do ride nice when you have the suspension on good shape and the right shocks and struts. Even though expensive I highly recommend going with Factory Nissan parts(as long as available) if you don't plan to take it off the street. Nissan also has the Value Advantage line for many parts and I know the R50 is included. Once you got all the parts installed I highly recommend sending to a local shop you trust and getting it aligned.

[Frenchy]

Also I might want pictures of the 92. Chances are you can take care of a lot of the work on it for way less. I have more then that in my 93, but that is due to all the extras I have put into it(small lift, matching spare, fixing electrical Gremlins from previous owner, adding OffRoad accessories and bunch of different maintenance). As long as you are not looking at it for something to make money on but instead enjoy driving it makes spending money on a lot easier.

[hawairish]

1 hour ago, 92SEPathFindr said:

Hey hawairish, Riverside county California, Hemet area not AZ.  Moving to North San Diego county soon.  I started buying some basic tools so I can do more mechanical work myself so I can afford repairs/maintenance, etc.  or also maybe a mechanic who wants some under the table weekend work.  My R50 looks all stock to me front and rear suspension and it’s real floaty and the back bottoms out easy.
cheers and take care.   

Gotcha. Yeah, looked somewhat SW/desert-ish, thought I’d ask because I could help out if you were out this way. 

[92SEPathFindr]

9 hours ago, Frenchy said:

With the little experience I have with the R50(it has been a few years BTW) I can say that they do ride nice… I highly recommend sending to a local shop you trust and getting it aligned.

Thanks Frenchy, my 92SE is 5speed Manual dual range and the R50 is LE auto 4WD dual range & 2WD as you may know.  Comparing the two “rides” even given the need for some repairs the R50 feels quiet and plush and the 92SE is rigid, noisier, and you feel the road lol!!  For the R50 I’m going to get on the right part of the forum soon and looking at suspension add ons like  Sumo or Super Springs if they will possibly help, and then replacing with OE specs EXCEPT heavier duty (as possible) to allow for more weight carried over all.  Thanks for your input man.  Best regards, Aaron 

[92SEPathFindr]

10 hours ago, Frenchy said:

Also I might want pictures of the 92. Chances are you can take care of a lot of the work on it for way less… but instead enjoy driving it makes spending money on a lot easier.

Right on Frenchy, yes in the last several years for 1992 I have replaced AC & compressor, all lenses, headlights, complete brakes & new rotors, the clutch, bearing, & rear main seal, all belts, cooling system, hoses, water pump, thermostat, radiator, fan clutch, regular coolant flushes oil air filter changes, brake master reservoir, timing belt with camshaft seal (?), 5 off-road tires Hankook Dynapro AT2, dash carpet, seat covers, removed old window tint.  What it needs: front axles replaced/rebooted, most suspension bushings and related parts, engine rebuild/replace probably due to a bearing problem, front drivers side quarter panel has dent from 2020 fender bender ( insurance “totaled” the car from this accident so the title is “salvage title” in CA, some of the exterior parts like window trim and rear tire carrier have surface rust.  Basically due to financial reasons, time needed, and lack of mechanical skill I may decide not to keep both Pathfinders.  My gut wants to keep both though vehicles lol!!  If or when I decide to sell the 92 I would post more extensive photos and add some videos to YouTube showing everything.  Thanks again Frenchy and take care.  Aaron 

[92SEPathFindr]

10 hours ago, hawairish said:

Gotcha. Yeah, looked somewhat SW/desert-ish, thought I’d ask because I could help out if you were out this way. 

Thank you hawairish, hey I’d love to visit!!!  There are many backcountry areas in AZ I want to see and a couple where I want to prospect and mine for gold.  So who knows.. but yeah I’m out here in SoCal moving to N San Diego county soon.  I’ve seen many posts and pictures about R50s and your lifts, upgrades, and progress with all your friends and their pathfinders.  Awesome products and skill by y’all!!   
your advice?  For now my R50 getting it “stock” height, wheels, etc.  1) If I replace suspension parts with OE parts but heavier duty level to carry more weight overall?  What maker/part numbers for front/rear for a heavier level?  2) is Sumo-Spring or Super Spring type parts a benefit to front and/or rear suspension as an add-on?  I appreciate your help, recommendations, thanks and no hurry really.  Cheers, Aaron 

[Frenchy]

1 hour ago, 92SEPathFindr said:

Right on Frenchy, yes in the last several years for 1992 I have replaced AC & compressor, all lenses, headlights, complete brakes & new rotors, the clutch, bearing, & rear main seal, all belts, cooling system, hoses, water pump, thermostat, radiator, fan clutch, regular coolant flushes oil air filter changes, brake master reservoir, timing belt with camshaft seal (?), 5 off-road tires Hankook Dynapro AT2, dash carpet, seat covers, removed old window tint.  What it needs: front axles replaced/rebooted, most suspension bushings and related parts, engine rebuild/replace probably due to a bearing problem, front drivers side quarter panel has dent from 2020 fender bender ( insurance “totaled” the car from this accident so the title is “salvage title” in CA, some of the exterior parts like window trim and rear tire carrier have surface rust.  Basically due to financial reasons, time needed, and lack of mechanical skill I may decide not to keep both Pathfinders.  My gut wants to keep both though vehicles lol!!  If or when I decide to sell the 92 I would post more extensive photos and add some videos to YouTube showing everything.  Thanks again Frenchy and take care.  Aaron 

I'm going to go out on a limb and say that 92 has the sport package right?(Sport wheels aka LEGO wheels, Rear Disc Brakes, Adjustable shocks that are probably blown)

 

If that's the case I say keep it. They came with a really nice LSD in the rear and allow them to goany places OffRoad. Also being a Body On Frame design VS the Unibody design of the R50 I can promise you this will hold up much better OffRoad.

 

As for myself I made sure to get another Sport(LEGO) wheel for the spare so my offset is correct for the 31's. I also run the Firestone Destination XT's as they are the lightest and most durable All-Terrain I have found!!

[adamzan]

I still don't understand why shops wouldn't touch the truck. I've taken mine to a few places here and as long as you're paying, they don't care. And you're not in the rust belt like I am...

 

Hopefully you can get the wd21 back in good shape eventually. It is nice to have a 2nd car to drive while one is apart though!

[92SEPathFindr]

On 8/10/2023 at 11:32 AM, Frenchy said:

I'm going to go out on a limb and say that 92 has the sport package right?(Sport wheels aka LEGO wheels, Rear Disc Brakes, Adjustable shocks that are probably blown)

 

If that's the case I say keep it. They came with a really nice LSD in the rear and allow them to goany places OffRoad. Also being a Body On Frame design VS the Unibody design of the R50 I can promise you this will hold up much better OffRoad.

 

As for myself I made sure to get another Sport(LEGO) wheel for the spare so my offset is correct for the 31's. I also run the Firestone Destination XT's as they are the lightest and most durable All-Terrain I have found!!

100% Frenchy.  Check, check, check.. rear disks, LEGO wheels, adjustable shocks (the PO replaced “the suspension” approx 2011) and I have the work receipts.  LSD rear differential, Sport/Touring button next to parking brake, interlock button on dash right of steering wheel.  Yes, it always has seemed highly able off-road yet I don’t actually know how the two interior buttons work, if they are connected, or how to tell if they activate “interlock” or “sport” vs “touring”.  I’m amazed at what I don’t know about the 1992 SE.  Yes, I agree about keeping it and operational especially after the money I have put in it in the last few years.  I appreciate your input, thank you!  Aaron 

[92SEPathFindr]

On 8/10/2023 at 1:01 PM, adamzan said:

I still don't understand why shops wouldn't touch the truck. I've taken mine to a few places here and as long as you're paying, they don't care..

Hopefully you can get the wd21 back in good shape eventually. It is nice to have a 2nd car to drive while one is apart though!

Hey adamzan, what’s good, yeah right.  Ultimately I need to improve my simple mechanics tool selection and create better location where I can work on and more easily lift the truck and work piece by piece, part by part, and with care.  Several of the shops and one solo-mechanic (locally highly recommended) just stated because the computer is ODB1 apparently they won’t touch the 92 SE.  Or they literally have weeks, maybe months of work booked and they just don’t want to mess with the “old” Nissan.  I’m hoping to visit a shop in my old neighborhood once we move back (soon) because I’ve known the owner like 30 years.  I think he may be able to get things fixed right and reasonably priced.  Yet, I still need to be able to a lot more on my own.  I’m with you about the second car, this helps tremendously…. My new to me R50 is filling in that role more and more.  Thanks and best regards, Aaron 

[Slartibartfast]

Those two switches are for entirely separate systems.

 

The interlock switch is for the starter motor. If the starter interlock is on, the starter will only run if the clutch pedal is down. The interlock's meant to stop you from running into parked cars/garage doors/etc if you forget it's in gear when you try to start it. With the interlock switched off, you can move a disabled vehicle a short distance using the starter motor, or reach in and fire it up without getting into the driver's seat if you're sure you've got it in neutral. I've read you can also use it to drive out of precarious situations off-road where you don't want to slip the clutch and risk rolling backwards. 

 

The switch for the adjustable shocks powers a little motor/solenoid at the top of the shock, which opens or closes a bypass for the piston inside. There's a motor/solenoid in the can on top of the shock that opens and closes a valve to allow oil to bypass the piston. You should hear a little click from the can when you switch settings. Very simple system. It might've even done something when the truck was new. I couldn't tell the difference from the driver's seat in my '95, but the truck was a little harder to rock from the outside when the shocks were in sport mode (valves closed).

 

If the PO replaced the suspension, that likely included the shocks, and they likely used regular non-adjustable shocks rather than trying to track down the originals. That's what I did on mine. 

[92SEPathFindr]

32 minutes ago, Slartibartfast said:

Those two switches are for entirely separate systems.

 

The interlock switch is for the starter motor. If the starter interlock is on, the starter will only run if the clutch pedal is down. The interlock's meant to stop you from running into parked cars/garage doors/etc if you forget it's in gear when you try to start it. With the interlock switched off, you can move a disabled vehicle a short distance using the starter motor, or reach in and fire it up without getting into the driver's seat if you're sure you've got it in neutral. I've read you can also use it to drive out of precarious situations off-road where you don't want to slip the clutch and risk rolling backwards. 

 

The switch for the adjustable shocks powers a little motor/solenoid at the top of the shock, which opens or closes a bypass for the piston inside. There's a motor/solenoid in the can on top of the shock that opens and closes a valve to allow oil to bypass the piston. You should hear a little click from the can when you switch settings. Very simple system. It might've even done something when the truck was new. I couldn't tell the difference from the driver's seat in my '95, but the truck was a little harder to rock from the outside when the shocks were in sport mode (valves closed).

 

If the PO replaced the suspension, that likely included the shocks, and they likely used regular non-adjustable shocks rather than trying to track down the originals. That's what I did on mine. 

Slartibartfast, thank you for the info my friend.  Very interesting and yeah I didn’t know (or use) either switch.  I recall now hearing about the Interlock at least once before.  The shocks are probably aftermarket like you did as well.  Thank you for the information and best wishes.  Aaron 

[Frenchy]

He actually has it backwards on the interlock switch. When it's off you have to push the clutch pedal in to start it. When you turn the interlock on(momentarily BTW) then it will start without the clutch being pushed in.

 

It can be helpful in many different situations that you can find, but thankfully I haven't had to worry myself.

 

As for the adjustable suspension switch sport is meant for OffRoad and Touring is meant for street. Touring will be softer and sport will be stiffer(as long as the shocks are the electronic and aren't blown out). I myself do not have the adjustable shocks anymore. The rears were no longer available and the fronts cost a bit. I decided to go with Old Man EMU shocks on mine along with the Old Man EMU coil springs and Sway A Way torsion bars. 

 

In general it still does very well in the OffRoad and on the street.

[Slartibartfast]

Makes sense it's momentary so you don't leave it disengaged by accident. 

[gamellott]

The interlock switch is momentary and I am sure there is some kind of timer to it, although I have not done any research on how long it lasts. I hit the switch and turn the key and drive off.... 

[hawairish]

First time I'd heard of and used an interlock switch was in a 99 or 00 Tacoma 4wd 5MT, can't recall.  Momentary switch that allowed one-time use to start the truck without the clutch pedal depressed.  Particularly useful if on an incline and needing to start the truck with the foot on the brake.

 

I'm happy to see this feature existed long before I saw it in a Taco, but I'll presume the WD21 acted like the above.

[Frenchy]

5 hours ago, gamellott said:

The interlock switch is momentary and I am sure there is some kind of timer to it, although I have not done any research on how long it lasts. I hit the switch and turn the key and drive off.... 

No timer at all. It is on when pressed an off once released

[hawairish]

So you had to hold the button when starting the truck in lieu of depressing the clutch?

 

On the Taco I mentioned, I think you just pressed it but didn’t have to hold it. It reset before next start attempt. 

[gamellott]

This is totally off of the original topic..... The "Interlock" switch is on the right hand side, which is on the same side as the ignition switch. Kinda hard to hold at the same time as you're turning the key. I don't know how I figured out how it worked because I don't have a Factory owners manual. I don't think it has ever not started, except when the battery was dead.

 

The process of starting and using the interlock switch is, at least on my rig:

 

1. Check the vehicle in neutral. Wiggle the stick out of gear.

2. Depress the interlock switch.

3. Turn the ignition switch to start.

 

I'm not sure why they did it, but it's there. It does bypass the clutch interlock, of which, if broken, will make it difficult to start. I found that out on my 95 D21 that didn't have the interlock switch. I suspect that they don't put that switch on there anymore is because people are stoopid and start it in gear without depressing the clutch, and drive into things.... I answered my own question there.... Hmph....

[Frenchy]

That is one of the uses for that switch. When OffRoad and you get in a bind and feathering the clutch is dangerous you can leave it in gear when starting and that should get you where you need.