92SEPathFindr

Slartibartfast thanks so much good sir! You make it sound so simple and right on. Much appreciate your help!! best regards, Aaron

Thinking about a new set of tires for my new 2-me 2004 LE R50? At the tire shop recently, the sales guy said an acceptable size tire (that was commonly available) and a bit TALLER than the stock 245 65 R17 is a 265 65 R17? Any experience with this sized tire? How does it compare to a 285 70 R17 (if even possible) for example? I’m trying for as much “lift” for more road/rock clearance while still sticking to a commonly available tire and wanting to keep the stock wheels. What tires and size do you recommend for these stock wheels and stock type suspension? Thanks for any help! cheers, Aaron

Death wobble or old suspension? My 2004 LE R50 is VERY WOBBLY feeling driving over about 55 mph!! Sort of feels like the rear of the car is dancing around a bit. And around town every bump easily bottoms out the rear end. I’ve been reading here and this is perhaps rear control arm bushings? Also I may need the front and rear suspension replaced as affordable as I can. 1) what are your thoughts on strongest and most affordable front & rear replacement suspension products? 2) Any thoughts on rubber coil spring spacers, the bump stop products, or the SumoSpring products and are any a good option? I have been told that the springs don’t really “get old and tired” but instead the strut or shock absorbers need replacement?? Thanks for any help or questions. Best regards, Aaron

Hey friends, my 2004 R50 LE is still totally stock, wheels, tires, suspension. I plan for it to hold more weight on and off roads, plan to build a roof rack with carrying capacity, water storage/shower, and awning. Also front bull-bar type bumper maybe for future winch and rear swing type spare tire rack. Right now it’s VERY WOBBLY feeling driving over about 55 mph!! So, I need the front and rear suspension replaced as appropriate and affordable as I can. 1) what are your thoughts on strongest and most affordable front & rear replacement suspension products? Any thoughts on the rubber coil spring spacers, the bump stop products, or the SumoSpring products/efficacy? At the tire shop today, the sales guy said an acceptable size tire (that was commonly available) but a bit TALLER than the stock 245 65 R17 is a 265 65 R17? Any thoughts on this sized tire? How does it compare to a 285 70 R17? I’m trying for as much “lift” for more road/rock clearance while still sticking to a commonly (better price) available tire. Any thoughts? Thanks very much y’all!! Aaron

Ah thank you so much, that makes sense now as to why they were kept in the car. I appreciate your help hawairish!! Cheers, Aaron

Hey thank you Strato_54, it's been well looked after from the hood paint sun damage. Alright cool, I'll check our PathyDude content, right now my plan is to replace with EOM suspension yet HEAVIER DUTY, keep same size tires, lift, etc. as this is possible. Thanks for the tip. Best regards, Aaron

There were a couple parts in the back cargo area of the R50 when I picked it up at the auction location. Two of the items were these two large rubber parts…. Do you know if these are R50 parts? Suspension parts perhaps? Or what if you know, thanks. Cheers, Aaron

Hey y’all. I’ve been on NPORA a while with my 1992 D21 SE Pathfinder and it needs some big money soon. So, I’ve been keeping a look out for a newer model and picked this 2004 R50 LE at an auction recently. I’ve had new keys made at the local dealer, done a lot of cleaning, checked fluid levels, bought interior carpet/dash/front seat covers, and that’s about so far. Also, had it registered and passed CA smog right away. So, here’s a few photos. I’m hoping for some help about suspension work options, stock vs heavier duty? Thank you! Best wishes and stay safe out there!! Aaron

Slartibartfast, thank you for the info my friend. Very interesting and yeah I didn’t know (or use) either switch. I recall now hearing about the Interlock at least once before. The shocks are probably aftermarket like you did as well. Thank you for the information and best wishes. Aaron

Hey adamzan, what’s good, yeah right. Ultimately I need to improve my simple mechanics tool selection and create better location where I can work on and more easily lift the truck and work piece by piece, part by part, and with care. Several of the shops and one solo-mechanic (locally highly recommended) just stated because the computer is ODB1 apparently they won’t touch the 92 SE. Or they literally have weeks, maybe months of work booked and they just don’t want to mess with the “old” Nissan. I’m hoping to visit a shop in my old neighborhood once we move back (soon) because I’ve known the owner like 30 years. I think he may be able to get things fixed right and reasonably priced. Yet, I still need to be able to a lot more on my own. I’m with you about the second car, this helps tremendously…. My new to me R50 is filling in that role more and more. Thanks and best regards, Aaron

100% Frenchy. Check, check, check.. rear disks, LEGO wheels, adjustable shocks (the PO replaced “the suspension” approx 2011) and I have the work receipts. LSD rear differential, Sport/Touring button next to parking brake, interlock button on dash right of steering wheel. Yes, it always has seemed highly able off-road yet I don’t actually know how the two interior buttons work, if they are connected, or how to tell if they activate “interlock” or “sport” vs “touring”. I’m amazed at what I don’t know about the 1992 SE. Yes, I agree about keeping it and operational especially after the money I have put in it in the last few years. I appreciate your input, thank you! Aaron

Thank you hawairish, hey I’d love to visit!!! There are many backcountry areas in AZ I want to see and a couple where I want to prospect and mine for gold. So who knows.. but yeah I’m out here in SoCal moving to N San Diego county soon. I’ve seen many posts and pictures about R50s and your lifts, upgrades, and progress with all your friends and their pathfinders. Awesome products and skill by y’all!! your advice? For now my R50 getting it “stock” height, wheels, etc. 1) If I replace suspension parts with OE parts but heavier duty level to carry more weight overall? What maker/part numbers for front/rear for a heavier level? 2) is Sumo-Spring or Super Spring type parts a benefit to front and/or rear suspension as an add-on? I appreciate your help, recommendations, thanks and no hurry really. Cheers, Aaron

Right on Frenchy, yes in the last several years for 1992 I have replaced AC & compressor, all lenses, headlights, complete brakes & new rotors, the clutch, bearing, & rear main seal, all belts, cooling system, hoses, water pump, thermostat, radiator, fan clutch, regular coolant flushes oil air filter changes, brake master reservoir, timing belt with camshaft seal (?), 5 off-road tires Hankook Dynapro AT2, dash carpet, seat covers, removed old window tint. What it needs: front axles replaced/rebooted, most suspension bushings and related parts, engine rebuild/replace probably due to a bearing problem, front drivers side quarter panel has dent from 2020 fender bender ( insurance “totaled” the car from this accident so the title is “salvage title” in CA, some of the exterior parts like window trim and rear tire carrier have surface rust. Basically due to financial reasons, time needed, and lack of mechanical skill I may decide not to keep both Pathfinders. My gut wants to keep both though vehicles lol!! If or when I decide to sell the 92 I would post more extensive photos and add some videos to YouTube showing everything. Thanks again Frenchy and take care. Aaron

Thanks Frenchy, my 92SE is 5speed Manual dual range and the R50 is LE auto 4WD dual range & 2WD as you may know. Comparing the two “rides” even given the need for some repairs the R50 feels quiet and plush and the 92SE is rigid, noisier, and you feel the road lol!! For the R50 I’m going to get on the right part of the forum soon and looking at suspension add ons like Sumo or Super Springs if they will possibly help, and then replacing with OE specs EXCEPT heavier duty (as possible) to allow for more weight carried over all. Thanks for your input man. Best regards, Aaron

Hey hawairish, Riverside county California, Hemet area not AZ. Moving to North San Diego county soon. I started buying some basic tools so I can do more mechanical work myself so I can afford repairs/maintenance, etc. or also maybe a mechanic who wants some under the table weekend work. My R50 looks all stock to me front and rear suspension and it’s real floaty and the back bottoms out easy. cheers and take care.

(Copied from my axle post) Well friends, I have really appreciated all your feedback and tips and advice. Yet the bad news is my 92SE still sits without any of the work being done. Even with your encouragement and tips, I haven’t made the jump to do what I can handle and so nothing has been worked on yet. I took the pathfinder up to a big local shop and they looked it over. My need was to have the front axles replaced and then I added that any suspension/bushings that needed to be replaced would also be good to have. There must be a fun phrase in the mechanic’s world for, “yeah, we’ll do it and you’ll REALLY pay a pretty penny too or you can take it somewhere else!!” The shop quoted $5600 for axles, control arms, ball joints, steering gear, valve cover gasket, tie rods, idler arm, and center link parts and labor. None of this would touch the VG30E engine knock/ probably bearing issue. So, for now the 1992 sits again…. Maybe I’ll sell it, maybe I’ll find a way to do most of the work I can when we move to a larger yard. Not sure about the future for the 92.. in the meantime at an auction I picked up a 2004 Nissan R50 which also needs an axle boot and some suspension work but pretty much everything else is working and in good repair. So thank y’all again very much and here’s to the new and old pathfinders out there surviving! best regards, Aaron

Well friends, I have really appreciated all your feedback and tips and advice. Yet the bad news is my 92SE still sits without any of the work being done. Even with your encouragement and tips, I haven’t made the jump to do what I can handle and so nothing has been worked on yet. I took the pathfinder up to a big local shop and they looked it over. My need was to have the front axles replaced and then I added that any suspension/bushings that needed to be replaced would also be good to have. There must be a fun phrase in the mechanic’s world for, “yeah, we’ll do it and you’ll REALLY pay a pretty penny too or you can take it somewhere else!!” The shop quoted $5600 for axles, control arms, ball joints, steering gear, valve cover gasket, tie rods, idler arm, and center link parts and labor. None of this would touch the VG30E engine knock/ probably bearing issue. So, for now the 1992 sits again…. Maybe I’ll sell it, maybe I’ll find a way to do most of the work I can when we move to a larger yard. Not sure about the future for the 92.. in the meantime at an auction I picked up a 2004 Nissan R50 which also needs an axle boot and some suspension work but pretty much everything else is working and in good repair. So thank y’all again very much and here’s to the new and old pathfinders out there surviving! best regards, Aaron

Thank you RustFlames! Your work looks amazing and is how I would like mine too, super GREAT!! I also appreciate your experience about thwe washers, threads, bearings, etc. That's valuable input to me. Thanks again and best regards, Aaron

Oh snap, Mr. 510's work is so impressive!! Crazy skillful! Thanks Slartibartfast.

Hey Startibartfast, camshaft retainer sounds like it could be it ...time will tell indeed. "The #6 plug is a notorious PITA, but is possible to remove with the right combination of extension/U joint/swearing, or the factory tool kit that may still be under your back seat?" Haha, I'm going to check that kit!! I had a shop not to long ago do the plugs, wires, distributor cap and they then also ran the smog check and it passed then. These last years have really BLOWN past so this may have been in late 2020. AS far as I know and I would guess the injectors are factory issue. I have heard from another mechanic that, yeah, the cheap injectors are hit or miss....sucks! I appreciate the links, very interesting. I'll try the prybar on the heat shield. Regarding deeper diagnosing like removing the drive belts, I think that will hopefully be done by the shop that swaps in a rebuilt motor or if they do the rebuilding... I'll probably drive the Nissan to these three local Engine builder companies and see what they agree on. Doing the Axles and Suspension work type repairs are within my level of comfortable work. I'll update the posts with what I learn and as things go along. Thanks so much for your ideas and experience. Best regards, Aaron

Hey thanks very much for your input 95-50. Yeah, all the the bushings look about the same 30 year vintage and it makes sense to me to replace all those pieces one by one and like your wrote easy does it and little by little, carefully. I'm planning to reread through your tips there as I get ready, and buy a few tools as needed. After the suspension, axles, and porbably the pending engine work, there will not be much left to replace... haha. looking forward to when it's done. Thanks for the video links, SUPER helpful for me as an infrequent mechanic. Cheers and best regards, Aaron

Thanks so much Slartibartfast, I'm adding another video in I'm answered some of your questions... I'm going to look over your messages more thoroughly next. Much appreciate your feedback, your help. Thanks again!!

Thanks for your feedback Strato_54! Really sounds metallic to me too, like a couple tiny hammers in there clanking along the wall of the block and YES more noticeable on the driver's side. It's been suggested that it may be a camshaft bearing? if it's a camshaft bearing, i'm wondering if that entails a full rebuild or a rebuilt head unit? I don't know obviously yet it's been like this for getting close to 2 years (and 2 years of me driving the Pathfinder very little). I'm adding a new video which is a Cold Start and more info. Thank you again, cheers. Aaron

Thanks Frenchy, a couple of mechanics listening in person recently were also thinking about exhaust leak or leaks along with the knocking, tapping noise. The tapping does seem legit inside the engine. The main noise problem is separate from exhaust I'm nearly certain. Last year or maybe 1.5 yrs ago the clutch was replaced and the shop removed and replaced the exhaust manifolds. This doesn't mean they fixed a leak though, lol. When the engine get's hotter than in the video there is also a single random pop/ backfire noise that happens maybe every 30-45 seconds. IIRC, Nissan dealer near me was suggesting that the main issue may be a crankshaft bearing and about $4500 is needed for them to correct it. I appreciate your input, ...thanks!