92SEPathFindr

Very good thanks a lot! I ordered a replacement switch plate from an eBay wrecker yard. I'll report back if this does or does not resolves the problem. Boy, I'm hopeful that it works!! Thanks again, Aaron

Do you have any suspicion that this might be a fuse for both the driver's side windows? Thanks

Thanks my friend for your help and advice. I'll look into getting a replacement switch, the online manual, and update with what I learn and try. If the switch unit does fix this, I will be relieved. Thanks again!

This started with the main door lock switch not responding. Without looking it up here on NPORA, I removed the switch cover which had cracked and become loose on the switch shaft. So I removed it and found I could operate the door locks by moving the shaft. This was fine and functional. Recently, my drivers side front window stopped responding and fortunately it was in the up position. The shaft has a lock or something and it doesn't move freely on and off like the door lock switch does. The front passenger works fine up and down from the driver's switch and from that door's switch. The rear passenger window works fine from both switches but gets slow about halfway up. The rear driver window just stopped working completely from either switch. It was intermittently functional in the last few weeks but now doesn't respond to either the front or the back switch. I was able to get it closed completely and now that's where it sits. The driver's side windows front and rear are up and closed and stuck in that position. Drive thru dining is out or really awkward to say the least. I really like things to be operable on my vehicle but I'm leaving things as they are until I get some advice here from you guys. I would not be opposed to putting in toggle switches to replace the factory driver's side door panel switches as my main need is functioning windows. As well, I would replace every window motor or one at a time if needed, if it's doable with out special tools, or maybe I need to buy a tool. I would like them to all work well and go at the same speed, etc. I don't own a Factory Manual for the vehicle yet. All advice and experience is very much appreciated, thanks!

Update on the tires... On the way out, creosote root through the sidewall... Road Hazard replaced the tire after I paid $40 for mounting/balance and reinstate the Road Hazard.

Good to know. Hankook also has a MT (Mud Tire) which I was looking at but I think they would have been overkill and noisy on the highways. These seem very appropriate for my needs which includes a lot of off road travels. Thanks for the feedback and take care..

Thanks, they are great and nice on the highway. No noticeable humming. If price wasn't a concern, I would have went with 1st) Goodyear Duratrac with Kevlar and 2nd) BFG TKO. Still these are great. I'll will report here any problems I find. Best wishes!

Thanks for the feedback guys. My spare(s) saved from the rear wheels will do for now in a pinch yet they are tired and weaker than the four I just purchased. I still like the idea of a fifth tire and plan to get one before the first rotation which the tire shop said should be in 4-5K miles. These new tires are a step or two up in toughness from what I was running and I really like them and the way they behave on the streets. Haven't been off-road in them yet but it will be nice. The four tires out the door, swapping out my old spare with one of the "new" ones, and an alignment job was $625.00 total. Take care all.

...Well, eight months later and I made the decision and bought four Hancook Dynapro AT-m tires and keep my two best older tires as spares (one is on the tailgate rack now.) I'm am very happy with them especially compared to the more street tires (West-lakes) I had on. I'll report back if I have problems with them... Cheers all!

Hey, I appreciate your input guys. I probably will not keep the center cover pieces on anyways. Thanks for the help.

I have a 1992 SE 5 speed manual. Do you know are the lego wheels different size/dimension/offset etc. from fronts to rears? My fronts have a different center part which says, "Automatic Free Running Hub" and the rears do not. My goal is to have a total of six wheels and tires all the same and the stock wheels and 31X10.5X15 tires are fine for me. I'm planning to add two legos to my original four so I will have two spares which I will rotate in. How would you rotate the two spares in and at what mileage? Also, which years had lego wheels stock and are there differences in fitment between these years. Thanks for the help/advice.

I like all the choices and things you have done to your Nissan. Great looking and solid rig you have! I have a 92 as well but mine is completely stock now. How or does the Warn Premium Manual Locking Hubs change things and what is their advantage? Thanks.

Yeah alright, good point adamzan. I'll take a look. Can't beat that price. Hey friend, thanks. that's what I figured it was about. I'm new to pathfinders (not Nissan) and I'm very happy with my purchase. Yeah, I've seen the Subaru builds also. Another board, Ultimate Subaru Message Board (USMB), I've been on for years and years. I bought my wagon in 1995 from a used car lot in Denver, CO and have taken that wagon (stock) in all terrains except it can't do boulders and other things. No complaints with the my Subaru and I've done most of the work on it over the years ...well engineered. Yeah, the Peogeot steelies are the best really because the bolt pattern matches. And many drill other wheels, the hubs, or swap later model hubs. Have a good one!

Thanks, that's right I'll take a look at bringing it to a tire shop. I've never used a locking lug. I suppose I'll find out which type of lug nuts mine have and that's right it would be best to find one and even two additional Legos down the road. There are places in the desert where I have taken two spares (just in case) but never needed them and this was because the tires where road tires which I was using off-road (only ones available for my Subaru's 13 inch wheels). My 1985 Subaru GL: Most definitely will need another Lego wheel. Why are they called Legos BTW? Hope to not buy a tool but will see, thanks for the input. Interesting, I am quite sure that lug nut (and the others) has been on there 1992. If I had the extra money I would probably dump the Lego wheels and get 5 (or even six) basic solid wheels and tires to match. Mostly, I want function over form. Thanks for the input.

Thanks for adding the info. I'll take a look. I still haven't made a decision so one more desert trip and then I will have made up my mind. (I still have to get that locked lug nut off before and can remove the spare, ...if needed) But I now want to get all five tires instead of four. This way I can rotate them properly. I may need a different wheel than the factory spare wheel for the fifth tire? ...not sure yet. I'm searching the internet/ads hoping for some smokin deal but have not found one yet. Thanks again friend, Aaron

Thanks friend! I'll look into that maker some more. Interesting.

Thanks again for the help here. That information helps me understand this and I appreciate it. By the way, your tires are Goodyear Wrangler "Authority" not "Territory" correct? Searching, I found "Authority". They look like a tough tire and that is mostly what I need, ...tough. I off-road sometimes no-road in the deserts and drive over some pretty harsh stuff. Not so much snow or mud but whatever I get I want to do alright there too when needed. The Goodyears look strong similar to the more pricey BFGs. Take care and thanks! Aaron

Thanks for your feedback and information. How do the 31X10.5XR15, 235X75XR15, 215X75XR15 differ in size dimension? The discount tire store computers highlight the 235X75Xr15 and then add that 31X10.5XR15, 255X70XR15, and 265X70XR15 also are good fits. I am interested in a strong sidewall tire. Thanks.

I found a good thread here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35327-need-new-tires-31x1050x15-recommendations/?hl=%2Btire+%2Bsizes&do=findComment&comment=660887

Looking at tire choices for my 1992 SE. I have and want to keep using the stock wheels plus the original spare steely on the rear tailgate. The four tires on now are Westlake 31X10.5XR15 LT from 2012 and the fronts are warn excessively (near bald) on the outer edges. The rear spare must be OE. It's a 215X75XR15 "Toyo Temporary Tire" with a DOT stamp NYK 232, which can only mean 23rd month of 1992 (and it still has nipples). My plan is to take one of my rear tires (tread is better than the fronts) and have it put on as the spare steely to replace the OE spare tire and buy four new tires. I don't want to cut fenders nor do I want rubbing from tires too large. I want economical and good off-road and good highway tires and the better the tire for the cost is important. 1) What size tires does everyone prefer, what brand, any internet deals (coupons) you know of? 2) And how do I remove that locking lug-nut holding the OE spare on safely without a key? Appreciate your thoughts ans advice, cheers. ...here are some photos: Recent trip: Wheels and tires on now:

RedPath88, thanks for your quick response, removing the duplicate post, and the link. That write up and the thread is very helpful!! Much appreciate your help here! Thanks again, Aaron

Wanting to know how to best cut into the pathfinder wiring to hook up my trailer on 1992 SE Pathfinder. Thanks!!

I did some cooling system work and learned a lot. Here's the thread: Cheers. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/41515-advice-on-coolant-flushheater-hose-inlet-hose-92se/

Thanks for the input on the fan clutch everyone. I appreciate it. When adding an A/C system from a parts Subaru to my Subaru I added a fixed fan (which was factory installed I'm fairly certain) which is always on. This has been really nice as insurance if the intermittent electric fan where to fail on me. As a result my intermittent fan stays off however. Thanks again and take care all. Aaron

ahardb0dy, yep there is no drain on the overflow bottom and you are correct about the "used-car-lot-look". LOL At a car wash, I have carefully de-greased and power washed the engine compartment twice now and that crap is an Armor-all type detail spray. Have you ever heard of people putting a bolt or something through the fan-clutch to make it a permanently "On" fan? I can see how a failed fan-clutch can really screw up a trip or strand you out in the middle of nowhere. Take care, Aaron Here's a "before" photo of the engine: