silverton Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 The O2 sensor on the WD21 can be bad and not trigger an error code on the ECU. On pretty much every VG... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted December 12, 2012 Share Posted December 12, 2012 On pretty much every VG... TRUE 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 I'm dealing with almost the same problem wright now. Do not notice any smoke and the truck runs perfect, no stumble or hesitation. I have not checked the timing yet. Today I drove to my storage unit and back twice, exactly 3.0 miles each way, when I left the house the first time the fuel gauge was just a hair above the 1/4 mark, now after driving 12 miles it is a full needle width below the 1/4 mark. I have the tires at the correct pressure, I had the AC off and most of the drive was under 40 MPH although I did get close to 55 MPH for about 20-30 seconds of the trip. I ran that mode 2 diagnostic earlier after letting the engine warm up but I did it at idle and got a solid red and green LED, I guess I need to check mode 2 with the RPM's held at 2000 ?? I also checked for codes and got the "55", The air filter looked slightly dirty, And the truck was running very rich even after it warmed up, I could smell it, no exhaust leaks that I know of. Plugs were changed a while back and I did not pull them to check them today, cap and rotor and plug wires have not been changed yet they are what was on the JDM engine when I bought it, So from what I read above I guess I need to check the timing, run mode 2 at 2000 RPM, vacuum lines are probably ok as the engine runs good. May pick up a new coolant temp sensor as they are cheap enough, also I have changed the O2 sensor a while back as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 I had my wife help and I ran mode 2 again at 2000RPM, the lights both red and green blinked about 5 times in a short period so I guess that is OK. Going to check the temp sensor ( for the ECU) tomorrow per the FSM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 When I drove to florida with my new pathy it ran fine the whole way, The o2 @!*% the bed on the way down and I got real bad mileage. The CEL would come on sometimes, but go off when in traffic and speeding up and down. It would mainly come on during the long consistent drives (hour or more). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 checked the coolant sender, did it while the engine was cold, than removed it and checked it again, cleaned it and put it back in, cleaned the connectors in the plug, I need to get a new plug as the plastic is broke so bad the metal clip won't even stay on. I think I should get a new sender. Have to hit the junkyard need a few other connectors for other things too. The sender seemed like it was within spec for the cold temp. They are cheap enough and I have a gift card for Rockauto so I may just order a new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 I dont know the 3.0 very well. But i just read a thread where someone got the inline harness for a extra ground for the MAF. Does that apply to yours? Sent from my Moto X! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PitBullGirl23 Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 This thread is going to help me a lot tomorrow! I have a similar issue, and am changing out the coolant sensor and thermostat tomorrow. I'll let you know how that works, and if that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Do the temp sensor (the one for the ECU, not the gauge) and see what happens before bothering with the thermostat. You can test it's resistance with an Ohm meter. The values can be found in the Factory Service Manual, downloaded from the thread in the Garage section. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 Out of curiosity, how fast did the red/green lights flash? Did they lazily flash together, or did they strobe? In one of my VG powered vehicles I thought the O2 might be going bad even after verifying that the lights flashed together. At some point I swapped it for another O2 sensor because it still didn't seem like it was running quite right, but with the other O2 sensor the lights flashed very fast together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 The fsm says it has to flash more than five times in ten seconds. So yea pretty fast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 The fsm says it has to flash more than five times in ten seconds. So yea pretty fast. With the old O2 sensor, it would just barely get a 6th or 7th flash in the ten seconds. With the "new" O2 sensor is flashed more than 10 times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill91 Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Check your fuel vapor canister next to the air cleaner box. there's a cap on the bottom that can easily get popped off and you won't even notice it. That's what was causing my truck to idle down low and stall at lights because with the bottom cap loose it creates a vacuum shortage and confuses the motor. on a bright note, the cap will very easily snap back into place if you take the canister loose and take it out and look at it, it's fairly easy to snap it back into place. but it's also very easy to pop it back off again when you're trying to take off the air air intake from the throttle body and jerking around with the vacuum lines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill91 Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 I also replace the coolant sensor. Not the one that goes to the gauge but the one that goes to the CPU its got a bigger plug on it and it communicates the temperature to the CPU / motor computer thingy under the seat . if the temperature sender is not sending a signal to the CPU to let it know that the motor is warmed up the motor will stay onn "warm up mode" thinking that it's cold and cause the vehicle to run extra extra rich / really bad exhaust fumes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill91 Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 ok, looks like I didn't get away with nothing. ran good for a few days and then right back to poo. ordering a new EVAP canister. I'll do it on the road test for a few days and post the results Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill91 Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Ok, I think I finally figured it all out. first things first I need to get a different mechanic, because I had him check it out before I started to fix it myself and he said that he checked everything and could not figure out what was going on. to get right to the point, all I needed to do was take my mass air flow sensor off clean it thoroughly with a full can of mass air flow sensor cleaner, reset my air intake tube so it was properly connected with no leaks and I had an issue with my air filter box not sealing properly which was allowing dust to get past the filter and dirty up my mass air flow sensor horribly. my Pathfinder is running like brand new now! and for the record my mechanic is retarded! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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