Sometimes won't start - random

[1994SEV6]

So I've got an issue with my truck..and it's starting to rustle my jimmies.

 

SOMETIMES when I turn my key to start the vehicle everything cuts off. dies. No clicking. No sounds. Nothing. My digital dash clock dies. my interior lights won't work. my head lights won't work. The radio won't work. brake lights don't work.

It's like someone cut the connection to my battery.

 

Here's what I've figured out:

It only happens sometimes. It happened the first time a few months ago. Then it happened again last week. Since last week it's happened 3 more times.

If I remove/turn off anything that draws power (cigarette lighter car charger, headunit faceplate, interior lights, door dinger), when I turn the key back off, the dash clock will come back on (after 5-10 seconds). It only stays on until I 1) turn the key, or 2) turn something on.

 

I believe it's a problem with the fuses or my fusebox. If I press on, or remove and replace fuses, I can some times get it to work normally. Today, for instance, I removed 3 random fuses and put them back in when my door dinger started to ding. I knew, therefore, my issue was fixed and I could start it and drive away.

Last week, I, one-by-one, removed and replaced every single fuse (making sure to carefully inspect them), and my problem still persisted. Finally, I figured I would take a look under the hood, when I closed my door, and all my lights came back on.

I don't know if the door dinger is a source of the problem, or if it's simply the last variable that is consuming power.

 

A friend of mine suggest a loose/bad ground connection, but what kind of ground interferes with the ignition, and practically every other circuit in the car? <-- except, of course, the fusible link from the battery.

Edited May 24, 2012 by 1994SEV6

[Slartibartfast]

I would check the wires to the battery... I saw a car once, when the owner tried to start it, everything went blank inside. Turned out the ground cable to the battery was so loose you could wiggle it. Tightened that up and it cranked, started, all good. When there's just a tiny path for current, it can't pass enough to turn the starter.

 

I dunno what to say about the fuse box. If you narrow it down to there, there is a gargantuan screw-in plug behind it that you might check. Helps to remove the lower dash to access it. Last time I was in my dash I didn't screw it in tight enough, and half my lights weren't coming on.

[1994SEV6]

Thanks. You're always some help.

 

I know my Nissan would never leave me stranded, but it's just kinda irritating me. Mostly because I lose all my radio presets LOL. Gotta reset all my clocks, be embarrassed if my mom is in the truck or something "now, Shaun, I told you this damn thing was unsafe...yap yap yapblah blah blah"

[Trogdor636]

I had a similar problem on my old 2WD Hardbody. That giant spaghetti mess of wires that Nissan has on the positive battery cable at the post was the problem. Basically the wire was pretty corroded. Once I got that all figured out and ran a new cable everything worked great.

[Kyle94]

this has been discussed many times before. its bad connections between the battery, the groud, and/or the starter..

[devonianwalk]

Check the ground to the engine block as well. It is often over looked.

[1994SEV6]

Check the ground to the engine block as well. It is often over looked.

I don't think I have any. I asked about this a long time ago. The two braid wires that connect to the engine around the exhaust manifolds aren't there on mine. I was told it wasn't a serious problem. Are there other grounds besides these two?

[Kyle94]

follow the negative (ground wire) from the battery... it hooks right to the engine somewhere!

[Puckstoper9]

I would check the wires to the battery... I saw a car once, when the owner tried to start it, everything went blank inside. Turned out the ground cable to the battery was so loose you could wiggle it. Tightened that up and it cranked, started, all good. When there's just a tiny path for current, it can't pass enough to turn the starter.

 

I second this. Was one of the problems with mine when I got it.

[alabama_lowlife]

When my negative battery terminal was cracked and loose I had exactly the same problem. Like has been suggested above, check the battery terminals for looseness or corrosion.

[1994SEV6]

Ok. I even have one of those small wire brushes made for cleaning battery terminals and links. I'll do it tomorrow and report back.

 

I'll still do it, and take the advice, but I kinda got excited with the brush and cleaned all my stuff a few months ago. My negative battery terminal has always been loose. I can't really tighten the nut because it's a square nut and it's hard to get pliers or anything in there. I guess my best bet is to check that it's properly grounded.

[Kyle94]

one side should be square yes, but the other side should have a regular hex nut..? if not id get a regular hex nut and use it that way to tighten. IIRC that may have been what i did. as i have a hex nut on both of my batt terminals...

[ahardb0dy]

If you have a replacement lead type battery terminal with the square bolt head on one side and it is digging into the lead or spinning, replace the bolt with a normal bolt and make sure to put a flat washer on each end, that way the bolt head can't dig into the lead and you can still get a wrench on to it.

 

On my positive when I bought the truck the metal bracket that is actually part of the terminal broke off ( the part where the stock plug connects too), so when I redid my starter wire and replaced the terminals I did this to eliminate that plug:

 

6 Gauge wire from terminal to large butt connector, than wires from plugs into other end of the butt connector, crimped both ends and covered with heat shrink, still can unplug the stock plugs and have secure connection at the terminal.

 

Edited May 25, 2012 by ahardb0dy

[ahardb0dy]

new positive terminal with new 4 gauge going to starter on battery, negative terminal now matches the positive, terminals are Streetwires car audio terminals: (starter relay mod can be seen in background)

 

Edited May 25, 2012 by ahardb0dy

[Slartibartfast]

If it's loose, I'm inclined to say there's your problem. Tried vise grips?

[adamzan]

If it is loose, and you can't tighten it anymore, you can put a small screw in between to take the slack out. It's a cheap fix but it works.

[nismothunder]

If its loose and wont tighten go buy a new clamp. the clamps do rot after a time, take a hack saw blade and saw the clamps to see if theres any good metal left in them.

Edited May 27, 2012 by nismothunder

[RedPath88]

Personally I would shy away from the screw idea as that digs into the battery post. My suggestion as an alternate to that is a penny. Bent it a little to get a curve similar to the post, but not exact. open the clamp up enough to slide it over to post, with the penny between, then tighten it up (open end wrenches work good for this)

 

 

But the best bet is to buy a new clamp and toss the old one

 

You can get color coaded sets like this

 

 

for $5-7 and many parts stores such as Napa sell them individually for a few bucks a peice.

 

To make a better connection, pick up a post/terminal cleaning tool (another couple bucks) and clean them, or lightly scratch the post clean with a pocket knife.

 

Then once it's all back together and everything is tight, spray some protector on it to help fight corrosion.

[nunya]

But the best bet is to buy a new clamp and toss the old one

 

For $5-7 and many parts stores, such as Napa sell them individually for a few bucks a peice.

 

Then once it's all back together and everything is tight, spray some protector on it to help fight corrosion.

 

This (his whole post actually, just having some boredom fun picking parts if his post). You already know you have a loose connection so fixing the known problem should be priority 1. Grab a pair of new terminals, at least clean up all connection points. Stuff ain't gonna work right with lack of power

[ahardb0dy]

Don't recall where I read it, but the article I read said those colored terminals are like the worse ones ever made.

 

I agree on just tightening the terminals, I put in what I did in case the stock terminal was broken like mine was where those plugs connect to it.

Edited May 27, 2012 by ahardb0dy

[RedPath88]

Don't recall where I read it, but the article I read said those colored terminals are like the worse ones ever made.

 

I agree on just tightening the terminals, I put in what I did in case the stock terminal was broken like mine was where those plugs connect to it.

 

I've read that before too, but I've also used them many times before and have no problem doing it again (though I do prefer the unpainted ones over painted and molded on over all). Their main problem is the way the wire connects to them, they'll corrode over time, but it does take a long time. When it does you just pull the wire out clean both surfaces and bolt it back down.

 

That problem is likely too be true for any terminal that is not molded around the battery cable.

[sailone32003]

ahardb0dy If you dont mind where did you get the terminals?

[ahardb0dy]

I bought one of them from a local surplus store, and the other I got from partsexpress.com, they run $19.89 each link below:

 

http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?searchFilter=&srchExt=CAT&perPage=25&sortBy=0&layout=list&page=1&srchPrice=&srchCat=732&srchMfg=353&srchPromo=&srchAttr=

[sailone32003]

I bought one of them from a local surplus store, and the other I got from partsexpress.com, they run $19.89 each link below:

 

http://www.parts-exp...romo=&srchAttr=

Thank you for the info

[np123]

I had/have this same issue, I went thru and rewired everything with new terminals on the battery and it didnt do anything for me, I also replaced the starter selinoid and the starter. The only thing i havent replaced is my ignition switch (I got to lazy to do this lol). What I ended up doing was wiring in a starter button on my dash and now I never have any issues.