denley Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 95 pathy se v6 220k auto trans 4x4. I was driving along fine and all of a sudden my engine started reving like it was in neutral. No gears will engage, when I shift to reverse the engine strains like it normally would but will not move. Reverse and 1st are the only gears the engine bogs down for. I have a 94 pathy parts truck with a good trans, does this sound like a simple fix or should I look into swapping them. Trans fluid was clean and full. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wd21overland Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 95 pathy se v6 220k auto trans 4x4. I was driving along fine and all of a sudden my engine started reving like it was in neutral. No gears will engage, when I shift to reverse the engine strains like it normally would but will not move. Reverse and 1st are the only gears the engine bogs down for. I have a 94 pathy parts truck with a good trans, does this sound like a simple fix or should I look into swapping them. Trans fluid was clean and full. quick question are you using the stock transmission cooler or have you bypassed the cooler with a aftermarket one. The stock cooler are notorius for clogging and killing the transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denley Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 Stock cooler. How would you check the cooler for blockage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Hey man we are not that far from each other... On the transmission cooler note: If you disconnect the trans lines going into the radiator you can blow compressed air into the top port and see if it comes out.... If it is anything less than a lot of air, its clogged. Like has been already mentioned these are notorious for clogging.... Aftermarket cooler is the way to go!! Here is how I did mine.... http://www.torymoore.com/pathfinder/transcool.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denley Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 Ok thanks I'll check. So you think the trans is fried? No check engine lights or anything indicated it overheated. Just out of nowhere. Would it be smart to just swap the cooler, trans and T case from my parts truck since I know they are fully functional or is this one worth looking into? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wd21overland Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Hey man we are not that far from each other... On the transmission cooler note: If you disconnect the trans lines going into the radiator you can blow compressed air into the top port and see if it comes out.... If it is anything less than a lot of air, its clogged. Like has been already mentioned these are notorious for clogging.... Aftermarket cooler is the way to go!! Here is how I did mine.... http://www.torymoore.com/pathfinder/transcool.html The transmission may not be gone yet if the cooler clogs it kills the line pressure to the transmission so it might still be ok. I think there is some one on here that posted something similar to you and his was clogged he replaced the cooler and transmission was good to go. It's worth a shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Depends completly on how much he rev'ed it in gear if the trannys still good or not. Slush boxs are easy to kill when run with no line prssure. Thats why you genrally pull the drive shafts when towing a pathfinder/every other car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Ok thanks I'll check. So you think the trans is fried? No check engine lights or anything indicated it overheated. Just out of nowhere. Would it be smart to just swap the cooler, trans and T case from my parts truck since I know they are fully functional or is this one worth looking into? I highly recommend you go to the Garage section in the pinned FSM thread and download your own 1994 Factory Service Manual. There is an extensive diagnostic section that should tell you what is going on before remove anything. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 The deal with the cooler is the trans needs pressure to engage the clutch packs. When the cooler clogs up, there's no pressure, and the clutches don't engage. With a new cooler, you restore pressure and you're good to go. The problem IIRC is if you keep driving it with a partial clog, and the clutches half-engage and grind each other down. Also somebody on here used the stock cooler out of a Ford Exploder, he said it was $5 or something at the junkyard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denley Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 Ok I'll take the cooler off my parts truck to see. Is swapping the cooler a big project or can it be done with minimal removal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 The cooler is in the radiator. You can't really remove it, just bypass it. What's the transmission fluid's color, smell, and level? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denley Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 The fluids color, smell and level are all fine. I didn't realize the cooler was built in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Have you maintained the fluid regularly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denley Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 Yes I get it serviced every 30k. Is there any way to bypass the cooler just to see if that's even the problem before I install a new cooler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 You could remove both the inlet and outlet hoses from the cooler and branch them with a piece of rubber hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Could be a blown torque converter. I have seen this a couple times on wd21s. You're going along fine and then boom you've got nothing except park. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denley Posted February 24, 2012 Author Share Posted February 24, 2012 I can replace the cooler/radiator or trans cause I have a full parts truck with a bad motor. I just don't think I have the tools/ equipment to drop out a tranny and T case in my driveway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 (edited) Before replacing anything or adding an auxiliary trans cooler I'd do what nismothunder said and bypass the stock cooler with a section of additional hose to see if that alleviates the issue. Edited February 24, 2012 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denley Posted February 24, 2012 Author Share Posted February 24, 2012 I will. Are the lines easily accessable? Also will I lose much fluid disconnecting the lines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 The lines are easily accessible, they're right at the bottom of the radiator. You won't lose much fluid from disconnecting the lines, and you'll lose even less if you pinch the lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Thats why you genrally pull the drive shafts when towing a pathfinder/every other car. um..no. You don't do this. Why would you get under your vehicle and remove your driveshaft when you are supposed to just put it in neutral? Yes I get it serviced every 30k. Is there any way to bypass the cooler just to see if that's even the problem before I install a new cooler? Unfortunately, the recommended service is every 15k miles to keep these particular A/Ts in tip-top shape. Personally, I don't think you did it any damage by giving it a service since most trans aren't serviced at all. You could remove both the inlet and outlet hoses from the cooler and branch them with a piece of rubber hose. I'm trying to understand, but I think I'm only getting a faint idea. Are you suggesting to loop the trans lines without routing the fluid to the cooler whatsoever? I can replace the cooler/radiator or trans cause I have a full parts truck with a bad motor. I just don't think I have the tools/ equipment to drop out a tranny and T case in my driveway. Hey man, have faith. It's not that hard. I bet you could do it. All you need are a few wrenches, a jack or three, and patience. Not to be cynical, but this is pretty much what any mechanic in a shop would say. If it's the original trans with 220k miles, then you're one hell of a lucky owner. Definitely do simple tests to see if the trans cooler is clogged by looping the lines, but don't go to AAMCO or anywhere. Just swap it if that's really a plausible option for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 (edited) The severe service interval for ATF is actually 30k; the interval for differentials is 15k. Yes, nismothunder's suggestion is to eliminate the cooler out of the circuit and just use a U-shaped section of hose to connect the cooler inlet & outlets. The owner's manual specifically states: If the speed or distance must necessarily begreater, remove the front and rear propeller shafts before towing to prevent damage to the transmission. Speed in this case being 60mph, and distance less than 500 miles. I think it would be wise to do a pan drop and filter change, it's possible that the strainer has clogged as well. Edited February 24, 2012 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 um..no. You don't do this. Why would you get under your vehicle and remove your driveshaft when you are supposed to just put it in neutral? Unfortunately, the recommended service is every 15k miles to keep these particular A/Ts in tip-top shape. Personally, I don't think you did it any damage by giving it a service since most trans aren't serviced at all. I'm trying to understand, but I think I'm only getting a faint idea. Are you suggesting to loop the trans lines without routing the fluid to the cooler whatsoever? Hey man, have faith. It's not that hard. I bet you could do it. All you need are a few wrenches, a jack or three, and patience. Not to be cynical, but this is pretty much what any mechanic in a shop would say. If it's the original trans with 220k miles, then you're one hell of a lucky owner. Definitely do simple tests to see if the trans cooler is clogged by looping the lines, but don't go to AAMCO or anywhere. Just swap it if that's really a plausible option for you. No offense or anything, but you really need to research more before you barge into a thread like that. Yes you are supposed to remove the drive shaft. No the interval is not 15k it is 30k like stated by the lubeman. The suggestion to loop the lines is to see if a clogged cooler is starving the transmission of fluid. Honestly I don't think that is the issue but that is my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 I also doubt that the cooler clogging is as common as some make it out to be - more info in this thread - but it seems possible and is something simple to rule out, to begin with. If the cooler managed to get completely clogged with debris, I'd have expected noticeable issues prior to a sudden failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 I'm with Adamzan, usually when the transmission (in the (w)d21) fails, it's a single gear and most generally reverse. I can almost guarentee that the cooler isn't clogged. I would bet money that it's the torque converter and you're dang lucky that the transmission has lasted this long! I'm going to bet that it's your routine maintenance to thank for that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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