1994SEV6 Posted January 23, 2012 Author Share Posted January 23, 2012 (edited) Do like I believe most of us here do, timing belt, water pump, drive belts all at the same time, saves time and money in the long run That's some good advice. Thanks. That definitely works for replacing the belts, but for now I just need to take them off to diagnose some noises. I should probably replace them since they look pretty crappy. It's little tricks/habits like this that I'm going to start employing in my maintenance. Hopefully, I can do everything properly for my truck from now on because the previous owner sure didn't. As for now, I STILL can't release tension on the power steering pump. I watched a video from a member of this forum but of course he didn't release the tension, he just took the pulley off This ^. You've done a tranny swap you should be able to handle a timing belt service. LOL thanks. I tend to agree, but timing belt replacement kinda scares me. When the time comes, I'm definitely going to do it myself though. Edited January 23, 2012 by 1994SEV6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 I think you just need to push harder on your power steering pump. Mine is also pretty stiff. Or loosen the bolt it pivots on that connects it to the block, as was mentioned earlier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frecklecolouredbrain Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Hey 94, if you cant find the bolt he's talking about,look at the ps pulley. You have to turn it so one of the holes is at the top. The you can slip a socket right onto the mounting bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted January 23, 2012 Author Share Posted January 23, 2012 (edited) Hey 94, if you cant find the bolt he's talking about,look at the ps pulley. You have to turn it so one of the holes is at the top. The you can slip a socket right onto the mounting bolt. Thanks for the advice. You were right. There's a bolt right there. I was able to get to it. ...so, I not only got to the bolt, but I took it completely out and no change. This is actually starting to get my pretty angry. I took the long 14mm bolt out as well as a shorter 14mm bolt that bolts to the block. Nothing changed whatsoever. Edited January 23, 2012 by 1994SEV6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Thanks for the advice. You were right. There's a bolt right there. I was able to get to it. ...so, I not only got to the bolt, but I took it completely out and no change. This is actually starting to get my pretty angry. I took the long 14mm bolt out as well as a shorter 14mm bolt that bolts to the block. Nothing changed whatsoever. It sounds like the hammer you are using is not large enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 If you're sure you got all the bolts, maybe it's just held on by habit. Give it a thump and see if that shifts it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted January 23, 2012 Author Share Posted January 23, 2012 I love your dry humor Sewebster. I thought of using a hammer, but I didn't want to break anything. My other concern was what if I get it loose, but I can't get it back on in time for me to be somewhere tonight. I said fskc it and started whacking. I gave it about 50 good hard whacks on the pulley laterally from the wheelwell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 I probably wouldn't hit the pulley directly, you don't want to wreck bearings... it's the pump itself you want to move. You're sure you got the whole tensioner mechanism out of there, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted January 23, 2012 Author Share Posted January 23, 2012 (edited) I probably wouldn't hit the pulley directly, you don't want to wreck bearings... it's the pump itself you want to move. You're sure you got the whole tensioner mechanism out of there, right? no. I'm not sure. Mind telling me what I'm doing wrong? I'm sure it's something. This is before going at it with the hammer, but nothing changed after the hammer. I've even started it up twice hoping the force on the belt would help. Nothing. Is it severely rusted or what? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXLsHaUz7A8 Edited January 23, 2012 by 1994SEV6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 I just checked the FSM ST section (http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/st.pdf, page 17), and while there does appear to be one more bolt, it shouldn't be holding the pump to the engine. Maybe somebody over-torqued one and bent a bracket? I'd say more BFH is required, though not to the pulley. You might even want to put a chunk of wood on the pump and hit that to help spread the impact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 (edited) to be able to move the power steering pump, you just need to remove the long bolt that goes through the pump and the mount, which is accessed through one of two holes in the pulley. that's the bolt the pump pivots on, and must be loosened before you can change the tension with the lower adjustment bolt thingy. Here's the "through" bolt, which I'm sure you already have out. you can't see it in this pic, but I left marks in the pump trying to get it to move when I was adjusting its tension, they can be very stubborn if they haven't moved in 10+ years. and the lower adjustment bolt, which it also appears that you have out, mine looks like it's missing something! both pictures are sideways, but I don't care, tilt your head! Also, you do NOT want to hit the pulley directly. you could mess up the pumps internals and have to replace the whole dang thing! or if you knick the pulley, you'll go through belts like you never ever wanted to! Edited January 24, 2012 by silverton 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagabond Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 (edited) A couple more pics http://img.geocaching.com/cache/large/ecb592ee-a952-407f-9861-fed1a74107e5.jpg[/img] hope they help, just changed my pump a couple of weeks ago Edited January 24, 2012 by vagabond Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 It's pretty well stuck on if all of the bolts are out. Try spraying some PB Blaster on all of the contact points to break some of the gunk up, let it sit for a day or so and keep smacking on it. The pump on my '88 that was original was stuck on real good and took a lot of BFH to get it loose. After it was out I sanded all of the rust and dirt off the bracket, pump goes it and out like a dream. I haven't had a pump tensioner on my truck for at least a year now. I just yard it up until the belt is tight and tighten the through-bolt. It doesn't budge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Thanks for all the input, guys! I really appreciate it. Thanks Silverton and thanks Vagabond (quite the lovely name you have) for the pictures. They really helped a lot. I've actually driven it about 5 miles without the long bolt in. I must have spent 20 minutes trying to put it back in, and I just couldn't get it to line up or something else was blocking it. IDK. I was already late so I said F it and left. Nothing seems to be different except a thumping. It kind of sounds like a tire slap when your tire has uneven wear, but it has developed too fast and it sounds a little more solid. The sound matches the speed of the tire. Definitely coming from the front, and if I didn't know better, I would say the front pass. side. After about 20mph, I can't detect it anymore because it's going too fast. Around ~7mph/parking lot speed, it gets really ominous. Sorry I haven't been replying. I really hate it when people are helping me and we're on a roll, but I don't reply. I've been doing driver school and that takes up most of my day after regular school. I'll have to check a few things and spray some PB on it tomorrow (thanks Kingman). I was already thinking of doing that, but I wanted to make sure it was safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Water pump means timing belt as well...unless u r doing a VG in a 4x4 hard body or 2wd car with the wd21 but at that tone u may as well do the belt as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Water pump means timing belt as well...unless u r doing a VG in a 4x4 hard body or 2wd car with the wd21 but at that tone u may as well do the belt as well wait what? I'm a little confused by this. "unless I'm doing a VG in a 4x4 hardbody or 2wd car with the wd21"? Well, I do have a 4x4 hardbody with a VG in it. Anyway guys. Real quick. I just got home. I figured out what that thumping. I knew it wasn't uneven tear wear because it developed too fast and it was too solid of a sound. On top of that, I can only hear tire slap above ~15mph. So I got an idea that maybe it was loose lug nuts. It was. all 12 of my front lug nuts were finger tight. I'm pretty scared for my life now. I don't leave loose lug nuts and even with vibrations, I can't imagine how all 12 of them could get that loose. So all 12 were loose, and now one of them is stripped. Threads of the lug nut were in threads of the wheel stud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 So you pissed someone off and they played a little trick on you? Some of the pumps are different in design. On Z31s you can remove the pump without taking off the lower timing belt cover and what not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Wd21 shoulda been vg30....kingman cleared it up...I was drunk and tired but 95% of my posts r in that mindset so i reckon its not an excuse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 94, do you tighten in a star pattern? My understanding is that the bolts don't seat right otherwise. Glad you caught it before it got ugly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 If one is loose...chances are the others will loosen with time or fail...the bolt circle becomes less effective when uneven torques or missing nuts are present Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted January 27, 2012 Author Share Posted January 27, 2012 Wd21 shoulda been vg30....kingman cleared it up...I was drunk and tired but 95% of my posts r in that mindset so i reckon its not an excuse it's alright. I thought it was kinda funny anyway 94, do you tighten in a star pattern? My understanding is that the bolts don't seat right otherwise. Glad you caught it before it got ugly! Actually, I did tighten it properly. Usually I don't even remember the pattern. Since the patterns are posted everywhere (owners manuals, jacks, stickers and tags everywhere) I actually did remember the proper 6 lug pattern. Even though it's a bit tedious to tighten one bolt a bit, then do the next, etc then come back and do it twice for final tightening, then do it again to double check, I did do it properly. If one is loose...chances are the others will loosen with time or fail...the bolt circle becomes less effective when uneven torques or missing nuts are present That's a really good point actually. I was in front of my girlfriend's house about to drive away and all of the sudden I thought "that HAS to be my rim". I got out and checked. Just to get me home, I tightened all the lug nuts and stood on the lug wrench to get extra torque. Then I let the truck roll about 3 feet and did it again. I know I have to jack it up to do it properly. I guess that's what I'll be doing this weekend and I'll have to borrow my dad's torque wrench to make sure they aren't torqued unevenly like you said. Actually, I think we might have an impact gun somewhere. I'll also be replacing a wheel stud and lug nut too. woot..yay. As far as this thread goes, I didn't want to bother everyone during the week when I can't even work on my truck. I actually only have about an hour a day between my two events. It's just not enough time to change into dirty work clothes and snoop around my engine then get cleaned up and changed back. Besides, I use that time to eat large amounts of ham. Honey glazed spiral ham is 60% off at Shoppers. Sooooo good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 No wonder 'mericans are so fat. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted January 27, 2012 Author Share Posted January 27, 2012 (edited) No wonder 'mericans are so fat. LOL.....Adamzan. That's funny, and ironic. Edited January 27, 2012 by 1994SEV6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Don't use an impact gun. Here's my procedure, which, I probably just made up, but I think is good (?): 1. With truck jacked up, put wheel on, then put on the nuts finger tight, while continually wobbling the wheel around until there is no more play and you can't tighten them any more. I don't use a pattern for this step. 2. Still with the truck jacked, use your ratchet to tighten the lugs more, until the wheel starts spinning. I don't use a pattern for this either usually. Wheel should actually be on there pretty solid at this point (of course not good enough to drive!) 3. Lower truck onto ground. Torque in a star pattern to the spec. I think I usually use 100 ft-lbs because it's easy to remember, and I believe it is in the specified range. 4. Re-torque after driving about 100 km (about 50 miles). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted February 4, 2012 Author Share Posted February 4, 2012 so...I finally got my P/S belt off. I took off the tensioner bolt thingy and my pump started to move a little bit. "oh @!*%! My p/s pump is moving! I think I broke something. oh no. I think I broke it.. oh wait, that's what's supposed to happen" Took off the belt, and no change in the tapping. We all knew that though. I guess the next step is to take off the water pump/alternator belt. I must admit, I'm a little scared to do that one. What's the longest I should have the engine on with the water pump not running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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