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Fuel related miss?


RF600
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I have searched and really not seen topics that are similar to mine. I will do my best to explain.

 

I have a '95 with a M/T. I will be driving and it acts like a fuel cut or sputter. It only happens when the rpm's are around 2500 to 3000. When the tach wants to work. If you let off the throttle or give it more throttle it will go away. It doesn't matter what gear you are in. It will idle fine, no miss. No check engine light.

 

I have pulled the maf and cleaned it. I have looked at the cap and rotor and cleaned them up. Fuel filter replacement has not changed anything.

 

Clogged injectors? Bad coil? Any ideas?

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No check engine light. I had a iacv go bad a while ago. I replaced the regulator along with the iacv. If there were any vac lines that were bad when I took the upper plenum off were replaced. I don't recall having any issues after that. You know after something is replaced you pay attention a little more than normal to noises and things.

 

I really don't know where to start looking for the stutter i'm having.

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I have searched and really not seen topics that are similar to mine. I will do my best to explain.

 

I have a '95 with a M/T. I will be driving and it acts like a fuel cut or sputter. It only happens when the rpm's are around 2500 to 3000. When the tach wants to work. If you let off the throttle or give it more throttle it will go away. It doesn't matter what gear you are in. It will idle fine, no miss. No check engine light.

 

I have pulled the maf and cleaned it. I have looked at the cap and rotor and cleaned them up. Fuel filter replacement has not changed anything.

 

Clogged injectors? Bad coil? Any ideas?

 

Normally when i see that issue come into the shop it will sputter around that rpm range but then has no power after 3000 where yours is fine.

 

The 2 things i would check are your Fuel pressure and the catalytic convertor. But normally with those things you will have reduced power after 3k which is having me at a loss.

 

But after checking the service manual i think you should take a look at your ignition timing with a timing light, if the timing is retarded a few degrees it can causing stumbling at mid range rpm..

Edited by wd21overland
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  • 1 month later...

I will be borrowing a timing light tomorrow. In the mean time I have been looking around the net and saw that one guy ended up replacing his distributor. Granted this was a 99 Pathfinder. Many people have basically replaced a lot of things and it did not fix the issue. So is it possible that I could be looking at a distributor? Is there a way to check it while i'm looking at the timing?

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  • 4 weeks later...

Finally got a timing light and was hoping to check the timing. The manual shows 6 marks. My pulley has 7 marks. My underhood sticker says it should be 15* btdc. The manual says 10* btdc. The manual says there should be a red mark which should be tdc. I don't have a red mark. I am in California so maybe that is why the timing is supposed to be set at 15? If the manual is correct and the second mark is tdc, I can only get the timing to read 5 btdc. I can't turn the distributor any more. So I need to know which mark is the tdc on the pulley.

Edited by RF600
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I know the timing is supposed to be at 15. I'm having the same problem, my pulley is a 7 marks and I assumed the first was TDC but I am starting to think this is not the case!

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I will check the coolant temp sensor.

 

I checked the marks on the pulley vs where the piston comes up. I don't know if the first or second mark is tdc. I didn't have any movement between the two marks. if there was I couldn't tell from where I marked my screw driver. I have to smog this thing before the end of the month and obviously running out of time.

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Well I think I found out what was wrong. I got lucky and saw it. A bad vac hose from the back of the intake to the fpr. The ends were hard and cracking. I drove it around the block real quick to see if it was still bucking at 2500-3000 rpm. It didn't do it. Blame it on dumb luck.

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A bit of an update. While the main bucking was fixed with the vac line back on I do still have some bucking at 3k rpm's. I did a full tune up and it flew through the smog check. The slight bucking now is not a really big deal at this point. I am gathering parts for the timing belt and clutch. After that is done I will attempt to figure out what is causing the bucking. I have a feeling im looking at the distributor. Considering I have put very little money into it I can't really complain.

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I pulled the intake to do the iac a while back and don't recall any hoses that were bad. It's possible though. I would have to look again at the hoses.

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I am going to do the timing belt in the next couple of weeks. I'm going to pull the intake and look at the hoses also. Hopefully I find a bad hose. It would make it easier to fix the hose and not have to do more looking for my studdering.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I replaced the timing belt, valve cover gaskets and intake. Could the engineers have made it any more difficult to get to the left side valve cover off? While I had the intake off I looked at the hoses and connectors. The hoses were ok, but I did find a connector with some corrosion on it. I Think it was the coolant temp sensor. I cleaned it up the best I could and put some dielectric grease on the connector. After I got the coolant back in it I took it for a drive around the block to see if my stumble was still present. I didn't notice the stumble. So I will drive it more in the next few days to make sure. Next on the list is a new clutch.

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Damn. your basically going through all the stuff I have the past month. Although I did my timing belt 2 years ago. Fighting California enhanced smog right now.

 

Just did my clutch this weekend and would have much rather did the timing belt twice. It sucks.

 

Well have fun, :)

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Damn. your basically going through all the stuff I have the past month. Although I did my timing belt 2 years ago. Fighting California enhanced smog right now.

 

Just did my clutch this weekend and would have much rather did the timing belt twice. It sucks.

 

Well have fun, :)

 

 

The clutch is next on my list. Not looking forward to it. I will have a friend help with that. He is a human transmission jack.

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Even with two people and a transmission jack. it took me over 45 mins of finagling the transmission into the splines. You have to get the transmission perfectly level with the engine to get the splines to slide right in. Both times I was not lucky in getting it to slide right it. I wish you guys all the luck.

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Transmissions are not very much fun on a 4x4.

 

Well I still have a little hesitation. I will attempt to clean the connector again. Does anyone know if Nissan sells the connectors? Or maybe the whole pig tail?

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  • 3 weeks later...

I had some free time and pulled the connectors out of the housing for the coolant temp sensor. One of the connectors was still corroded from my feeble attempt to clean them up the first time. I cleaned them up and put some dielectric grease on them and put it back together. I have tried to make it stumble and it has not acted up. It is weird that is what was causing the problem. At least it is fixed now.

 

Thanks for the input from everyone.

Edited by RF600
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  • 2 months later...

I thought it was fixed. Still having the same problem. I'm just dealing with it for the time being. One of these months when other things stop using my extra money I will attempt to deal with it. I'm leaning toward the distributor.

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  • 7 months later...

Hopefully I can explain this properly.

 

The timing belt was replaced last spring and was driving fine. I have a stutter around 2500-3000. I thought I would get a used dist and see if that helped. The dist that was in my PF I was only able to get the timing set to 10*. The used one I could get it to 15*. The used dist at 15* would give me a hesitation on accel. I attempted to pull the used on out and put the original one back in to verify the stutter. Now it won't start. Have spark and fuel. The plugs aren't soaked but I can smell fuel on them. I checked the cam sensor and I am not getting the 5-0 volts like the manual says on either dist. I have incredibly bad luck for both dist to be bad or I am not doing something right. I get a solid 12v when turning the dist shaft. I can hear the injectors spraying and turning off.

 

I am connecting between #3 and #4 like the manual says. I even tried the other 2 wires in case I had the connector backwards. No dice. The fuses are good in the panel inside.

 

So am I missing something? Or bad luck having 2 dist that don't function properly?

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Has anyone ever checked their cam sensor? I get a small fluxuation but not what I thought I was supposed to get. Can someone confirm about how much it might fluxuate?

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