JackStraw1 Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 So....... last winter I had the strange door lock behaviour described in many threads on here. I replaced the door lock timer or whatever its called and the problem went away. Well its winter again so it must be door lock problem time. I have power locks but I do not use a remote. I stick the key in and turn once for driver's side and twice for all locks to open. As it has gotten colder, when I turn the key, the lock just pulsates but doesn't "catch". The passenger side tends to work properly so I often use that if the driver's side is not catching. Sometimes I can open the door in between pulsations on either side. I've also noted that the rear windows operate verrrry slowly now. Everything works fine in warmer weather. Tonight, I could not get the drive's side to open at all - not even in between pulsations like usually. I went to the passenger side, turned the lock and it too was pulsing and not catching. I pulled up on the handle in between pulses and the handle came off in my hand. Nice. Anyhow, i got into the car and now have it in the garage with door locks open ! I know I can remove door lock timer to go completely manual. But since I gotta replace my exterior door handle at some point, I might as well see if i can fix this whole thing. My guess is old wiring similar to the dim headlight issue in these older vehicles. Is there a similar type of fix using a relay that anyone has used. I guess i could jumper a wire directly from the battery and see if this improves performance. If not I guess it would most likely be the actuator? I'd love to hear some thoughts from anyone who has had similar problem and gotten it fixed. Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackStraw1 Posted December 29, 2011 Author Share Posted December 29, 2011 Sorry, it's a '94 SE power windows, locks, mirrors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 When you take the panels off you'll probably be able to see if anything is broken or out of place. If nothing looks broken or loose I would clean and lube all the moving parts. My rear door used to do that and after several generous dousing of PB blaster, wd40 or whatever, it was free again. I used fluid film to help keep it that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 ya man i would suggest some graphite lock lube (or just graphite lube). it will actually stick to the surfaces you spray it on and it isn't affected by the cold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 If you do pull the panel make sure this part is still attached to the lock cylinder, the black part on the right side of the lock cylinder: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaredfrompcola Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 You can go to ebay and get a handle for $7, I just bought one for driver side and it looks and feel like the same as old one. [/img] Also the part that has 34 on it make sure the small white plastic piece did not fall out of the hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 (edited) Don't use graphite in a power lock. My driver's lock was dirty, I blew some flake graphite into it, and it went from sometimes locking the doors when you'd shut one to running the solenoid against the key (so I have to hold the key and pull the handle or it'll turn the key back). I usually have to hold the unlock button down to let a passenger out. I checked and resoldered the connections in the lock timer and it's fine. Clearly not the same as your problem, but I'd say unless you want to feel my pain, stay away from graphite! (And no, it's not the timer, I resoldered most of its connections twice with no improvement.) The windows are a common problem, silicone spray lube in the window tracks apparently fixes it. Edited December 29, 2011 by Slartibartfast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackStraw1 Posted December 29, 2011 Author Share Posted December 29, 2011 Thanks for input thus far. I'm gonna pull of the door panel and have look. I'll clean everything and see if that helps. @Slartiblastfast "running the solenoid against the key (so I have to hold the key and pull the handle or it'll turn the key back)." This is exactly what's happening. That's what I meant by "pulsing". Did you find a fix? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 I haven't yet. I've considered going through (or at least unplugging) the keyfob receiver that's under the driver's seat, but I haven't tried it yet. I'll let you know if it helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
918pathy Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 I have the same problem, my locks will randomly lock and unlock multiple times when i am driving sometimes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackStraw1 Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 I have the same problem, my locks will randomly lock and unlock multiple times when i am driving sometimes The random lock/unlock is a slightly different situation and is usually solved by replacing the door lock timer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackStraw1 Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 I haven't yet. I've considered going through (or at least unplugging) the keyfob receiver that's under the driver's seat, but I haven't tried it yet. I'll let you know if it helps. Yeah the locks work fine when using the switch inside the driver's side door panel. It's only when trying to use the key from outside. I'm considering springing for a new keyfob to see if that works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Mine didn't come with a keyfob, the PO lost it (I've sometimes wondered if it's jammed somewhere with a bolt up against the lock button). The unlock button on the door panel unlocks them alright, but half the time they lock again on their own, or as soon as someone shuts the door. I've done the lock timer twice. Pathy be trippin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 One of your locks isn't unlocking all the way, and the motor senses that and re locks all the doors. It has to be one of the front ones, as the backs don't have"master"control over all locks. As Adam said, clean and lube the moving assemblies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 ... that would explain it. I'll pull the panels and clean up the mechanisms, and see if that helps. I pulled the alarm module before I saw this. I'll give it a look over just to rule it out. The truck seems to operate fine without it (backed it out and parked it in a different spot), and the locks still work, but I can't say whether it did anything to improve them (gotta love intermittent issues). It's got a little switch on it (labelled SW2) which sticks out through the side of the case. It's in the middle now, but the silkscreening on the board shows it on the far left. Something to do with setting up keyfobs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackStraw1 Posted January 3, 2012 Author Share Posted January 3, 2012 So .. I pulled off the passenger side door panel and looked at the locking mechanism. I had forgotten that when I installed the door speakers many moons ago, I had sound/vibration proofed the door with Dynamat. I had to slowly peel it off of the door to get a look through the hole to the lock mechanism. What a royal PITA ! Anyhoo.. the mechanism appeared to have a lot of crud on it so I WD-40'd the living daylights out of it. It seems to be working more smoothly. I wish it was easier to take apart so that I could clean it properly but its a nightmare getting my hands in that little space to do much of anything. I'm waiting for the door handle to arrive so's I can get this side put back together before taking apart and cleaning the driver's side. Is it as difficult to take out, clean and replace the lock as it appears to be or am I seeing things wrong here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 I recently replaced a lock and it was a bit of a pain but not really too bad... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 It looks like a mess of little rods inside the door, but once you understand how everything works and connects together its pretty easy to take out and clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 (edited) I'm in the process of doing mine tonight. I'm taking a lot of pics so I should be able to do a write-up. I WD'd the hell out of the lock mechanism and the connecting rods, figuring they needed it, but found the actual problem in the little box that actuates the locks. It had a set of contacts in there that were pretty scummy and worn. I cleaned them and haven't had it fight the key or shoot the locks up and down since. I can unlock all the doors with the key but it won't lock them, so I'm taking it apart again to fix that. Anyway, it's LOADS better now... pics to come. EDIT: Scratch that. I cleaned out the actuator, the contacts of which were a little gummy. It no longer actively fights the key, or at least it hasn't yet. However, it's still flipping the locks up and down (more than usual, actually), and it's stopped locking the doors when I lock the driver's side with the key. I can unplug the actuator and the other locks are still tripping out. This tells me that the problem's in this bit behind the lock cylinder. I was cold and had no idea how to get this bit out, so I left it alone for now. It's been doing stranger things than usual since I drenched it in WD40. I figure it's just dirty, and the WD's made the bits of crud move around. The little baffle on the outside of the lock broke long before I got the truck, so I'm sure all manner of crap has gotten in there. You guys are making me feel stupid... how do you get the lock cylinder out of there? Edited January 4, 2012 by Slartibartfast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Once you disconnect all the linkages to the lock cylinder, there is a retaining clip right up next to the outer door panel on the inside. Take that off and it will come out (to the outside). I have to admit not remembering having one of those large white-ish plastic bits though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackStraw1 Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 I finally got around to replacing the door handles when we had a break in the weather last week. WD-40'd the snot out of both sides. The driver's side still pulses but usually only a couple times before engaging. Passenger side operates flawlessly. Looks like maybe a complete tear-down and cleaning come summer. Thanks for all the help and advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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