jaredfrompcola

Alk how long does that take. I been driving several days and light still on. If it does not go off I am going back so they can do more work on vac. lines. I hate seeing the engine light on even though it is not hurting the truck.

They checked the codes and it told them vacuum was the problem. They changed the lines.The mechanic told me that you have to drive at a certain speed for some much time to reset the computer.

I hope I explain this right. I got my valve covers done. First I got the passenger side done and week later got the driver side done. After I got the driver side done my check engine light came on. Nothing seemed to happen to the pathy, everything seems ok. Well I took it back and found that the vacuum lines had a crack so they replaced several lines. Light went off but after two miles light came back on and I took truck back and they told me that the computer has to reset and it takes some time driving for the light to go out. Just wonder if this sounds right or does this seem fishy.

You can go to ebay and get a handle for $7, I just bought one for driver side and it looks and feel like the same as old one. [/img] Also the part that has 34 on it make sure the small white plastic piece did not fall out of the hole.

Would you recommend cleaning engine like this guy. Basicly he covers alt and dist cap. Then sprays degreaser all over engine and wash it all down with hose. I don't want to try this if its going to cause problems later.

maybe pulling the fuse

can someone tell me where in the FSM to find valve cover replacement. All I see is stuff about the valves. It looks like you just take stuff of the valve cover and then unscrew philip screws. Do I need to take off the spark plug wires.

I think I will, since I been reading these forums I have done alot of work on my pathy. I always get worried since this is my main vehicle. Next project is find leak,change valve cover gasket, and I just watched a video on how to change PCV valve. So I am doing that next to.

When I changed my oil the first time I got really pissed trying to get filter off. So I let someone else deal with all the pain and aggravation. I did a search on here but forgot about the FSM.

Took my pathy in to Walmart for quick oil change and I was told I had major oil leak. So I checked under my truck and did notice small drop but no major like they said. Well I did notice that my passenger valve cover has some oil around it so I wanted to change the gasket. I read on here how easy that one is so I will try it. My question is: (1) are the bolts known to break easy. I get nervous about bolts breaking on other pathy's I read about. (2) is there anything I need to know before I start. And what would you recommend on how to find oil leaks. I am going to clean all oil off as much as I can with rags but did not know if anyone has any tricks I can use. And I am going to pray its not the Rear Main Seal. I just got the tranny done and I would hope they would tell me if that seal was leaking.

Anyone know a cheap code reader that will work for our pathfinder. My abs light and brake light our on. Its been on for 1 year so it not really doing anything to hurt pathfinder. I just want to fix it.

Man I am tired finally found out what the whining noise was after weeks of searching and buying two fan clutch's, panicking over the water pump and the cost to repair it and at the end of it, it was a $23 part.......the Dam Idler Pully. Also finally got time to put my driver side door handle on. Dam that little thing is a bitch but finally got it done. nap time......

I have the same whining noise. I got my waterpump and ect. changed about year ago. I hope its not going out. I am going to take fan off sunday when I am off and see if its that. if not I will try and see if it maybe my alt. I hope it is the alt that is easy and cheaper to change.

I replaced my fan clutch twice from autozone. i thought first was bad so i installed another new one. same noise just not as loud. But when outside temp is warm i do not hear anything at all. now that is strange to me.

I asked Scotty to beam the plug out but he had to find more power.

got a question about the dist./rotor... i know the dist is easy just match with old. but i was reading that you have to mark your rotor so you do not get it wrong with putting new one on. not sure if i am asking this right. i had a Toyota and it did not seemed that hard. is this correct or am i reading it wrong.

I forgot to do a new rotor. ill have to get one soon.

I read on here how its not that hard to change your plugs. But dam did Nissan really have to put #6 so far and so low on the motor. I found it and started to pull the boot off and of course the boot broke right in the middle of it (MotherF#$ker). I had to climb on the motor ( I am only 5'5) so I can find where the boot was located. Next had to get a ride to Advance they don't have the wire,they called two others auto places and they did not have the wires either (really started to get nervous,Dealer is 1 hr away from me). Luckily Auto Zone had the wires ($53). After all this finally got home and worked on getting the old boot and metal part off. Then used a swivel and socket and got the old plug out. Used a rubber hose to put new plug in. After #6 was done the rest where very easy. If you do plugs it will save you alot of money. Guy quoted me $250 because he had to take off alot of parts and his time. If you try this I recommend you have the following: New Plugs (Your Choice) I bought NGK ($2.50 piece) New Wires ($53) Ratchet with 10 inch extension Swivel extension Small flash night Rubber hose to help guide spark plug in

i will take it to another mechanic just to make sure. hope it is, that is alot cheaper...

Well I took my pathy in to get the front end looked at. He did what others told me to look for he shook the tires and said it was a bearing going out and that is what ruining my tires. Small movement on driver side and more on passenger side. Well he told me it cost $100 on parts and $200 on labor. On his computer it said it takes 1.3 hrs to remove one bearing so it will take almost 3 hrs for both. Does that sound right is it really that hard to remove. He told me he has to press the bearings out and press the new one in. Just want to make sure this sounds right.

Well I replaced the fan clutch, it was not that hard. Only problem was I forgot to get a socket set, so once I took it out I had to wait for my brother to bring a socket set to me. Now I have to wait for a cold day and see if that was the noise I was hearing. Thanks all for helping me with this.

thanks everyone, i will get on it sunday when i am off

Ok, see if this is what I think it is. I am having loud noise in my engine area but nothing seems wrong with it, it accelerates good, and gauges are good. I mostly hear the noise when air temp is cold. I just got the tranny rebuilt and I thought it was that. But the noise is in the engine area. So I did a search on here for noise in engine and came away with Fan Clutch noise. That sounds more like what I am experiencing. Problem is not sure how to repair it, so I went to youtube and watch a guy change his. Please let me know if it is similar to what this guy is doing and that easy. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtJ6BboZYgg Also why does he drain his anti-freeze? Do I need any special tools?