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Everything posted by JackStraw1

  1. Hope everyone had a Happy and safe Thanksgiving ! I used the time to try and wrangle with my 94 Pathy. After replacing the intake manifold gasket and water pump for what appeared to be coolant leaking into the valley under the manifold I thought I had solved my coolant leak issues. Unfortunately no. Noticed a small but significant leak coming from the two forward most exhaust manifold studs on the passenger side. Both had been buggered by the shop that "fixed" my broken exhaust manifold studs. I guess they over drilled and hit the water jacket. I patched one up with sealant, the other is broken off and is only leaking very minimally even when rad is pressurized. While doing the intake gasket, I replaced the knock sensor and fuel injectors ( at least two were bad when I ohmd them out and the rest were filthy ) with a set of matched (supposedly) aftermarket ones. I did a quick test with a 9V battery prior to installing and all clicked open and shut audibly. I also replaced the fuel injector connector at cyl #1. She started right up today and idled pretty smoothly. Smell of gas was strong. Went to the exhaust and saw white smoke and dripping what appeared to be raw fuel. The smoke did not go away after she warmed up although the dripping eased off. Spent a good bit of time looking around and saw no leaking anywhere on the block or head but did notice the flange between the passenger side exhaust manifold and downpipe was damp. Shut her down and pulled spark plugs 1,3,&5. #3 and 5 plugs were a bit carbon fouled but still firing, #1 was wet, not fouled and also still firing. Dried off #1 plug, let ithe cylinder air out for a bit, put em back in and fired up. Very little smoke initially but then it got worse like before and dripping continued. Truth be told, I was getting the gas smell before without the smoking when warmed up. This plus the ohm testing of the injectors is what prompted me to replace the injectors while I was taking care of the intake manifold gasket leak. No CEL codes popping up So I'm thinking 1) I FUBARd the intake gasket on installation and its leaking coolant into #1 cylinder 2) #1 injector stuck open ( either faulty injector or ECM problem ) 3) really bad rings on #1 cylinder ( I havent compression checked yet) - seems doubtful since smoke doesnt look like burnt oil 4) blown head gasket 5) cracked head on passenger side 6) folks overdrilled exhaust stud holes went way too deep and ?? 7) contaminated gas ( its been sitting for about a year) or bad fuel pressure regulator ? As always, appreciate any thoughts from those more experienced than I, especially what I might be missing and how you would approach this. Thanks
  2. Hey all, I am looking for matched set of fuel injectors for my 1994 WD21, Tried some aftermarket ones on Ebay and first attempt was a fail. I'd send mine to a injector resring place but they are in rough shape and while 5 have the black dot, one has a red dot (?) Used ok if they re good enough to send out for cleaning
  3. Yknot, What you are describing sounds like it could be broken exhaust manifold stud. Loudest on cold start then when engine warms and the joint expands , it stops. Very common on these engines. There are several threads on here about replacing them if this turns out to be your situation
  4. Glad you got it workin brother. If any problems further arise with intermittent starting, give this modification a try Yes ! thats the one I have in my truck, I musta replaced three starters before I found that mod. Everything tested good for me except there was a voltage drop. Popped in that relay and reliable starting ever since. ( I still have a direct wire to the solenoid with the free end wrapped around my coolant reservoir from when I had to turn the key and then get out under the hood and touch it to the battery to get a start, lol Havent used it since the relay mod though.) You gotta write that up and get it stickied. If you are busy and dont mind, PM me the sketch here on NPORA and I'll see if I can get it done for you.
  5. The starting issues are among the most common on these older vehicles and are rarely the starter. The problem seems to be with older wiring and not being able to carry enough current to complete the circuit. There is a mod that bypasses some of the long circuit and allows power to be delivered to the starter directly by tripping a relay that requires only minimal voltage input. It used to be posted in the How to's section I believe about 10 years ago. Yeah, some of us have been around that long :{ I think it mightve been posted up by 88pathoffroad since he did the headlight mod. ( same issue with old wiring making headlights dimmer over time) By using relays can transferr power to lights directly from alty or battery giving brighter lights) An easy test for your starter is to jump it directly from the battery. If it cranks it aint the starter and likelly you will benefit from the relay mod. Search on here for it. If you cant find it let me know and I will take pictures of how it looks in my truck. I couldn't find it when I just searched ( there are 250+ pages of starter issues) Perhaps one of the long time members or mods has it archived and can resurrect it and pin it to the How Tos where it rightly belongs. Mr. Reverse has it right as far as testing. The relay mod involves dividing those wires and installing the relay which will trip with much less voltage. Actually, now that i think about it, I think the mod was posted by Mr. Reverse !
  6. Thanks. I gotta think its coming from one of those hoses. Looks like i get to pull the intake on my next day off :{ Sheisen
  7. Oops, this should have been posted in the 90-95 forum. Moderator please move it there
  8. Well.........I changed out my water pump and all that went well. It looks like I am still having a coolant leak at the rear ofthe engine closer to the passenger side. I don see any leaks on the heater core hoses as far down as i can trace them. To the pipes. The system seems to do well when pressurized but then losses pressure and leaks. Does anyone know if there's a heater core bypass hose or something similar back there ? And if so, can it be replaced without taking off the intake plenum ?
  9. Thanks Slarti, the extension did help ! Quick question if anyone's got their ears on today. I am installing a new waterpump on my WD21. I was going to use Blue Permatex but it came with a gasket. Looks kinda flimsy. I am trying to decide whether to go with the gasket and use a little Permatex as an adhesive to stick it down to the new pump or just pitch it and go with all Blue Permatex. FSM says liquid gasket. Also those little grooves at each end that help to index the pump in place... I'm thinking a little Permatex there as well ? Thoughts? Experience ? Happy Thanksgiving to everyone !!
  10. This was a great write up with great photos that really helped me with my timing belt change. I need to get back in to replace water pump and looked up this thread for reference, Unfortunately the pictures are no longer opening for me. Is there any way to get them back up ?
  11. I can't get the cylinder out of the cylinder case (maybe someone can instruct me)so I'll throw this out there again. Does anyone have a lock with key for aut0 lock 94 path ?
  12. Here's what I've got. The pic on the bottom shows how it is supposed to look. on the top is the broken unit I've got. I guess if I pull the circlip on the end of the cylinder, the inner workings will slide out, so maybe I only need the cylinder.
  13. I am looking for the whole cylinder. But....I did not realize that the casing could be removed. I'll take another look at it today and see if mine can be taken apart
  14. Hey all, Long time. Looking for driver's side door lock cylinder for 94 Pathfinder SE with power door locks. Has 2 flat spots on it where the C - shaped switch assembly slides on. Can't find in the aftermarket parts world. I'll take the whole door if someone is parting out and close enough for me to pick up. I'm in Northwest Pennsylvania
  15. Nuts. I need a left parking brake cable for my 94 SE with rear discs. They don't show up anywhere online or at any of the major autoparts stores. Dealer here wants $108.40.
  16. Anyone know if Rob is still able to source dealer parts? Looks like he hasn't been active on here for a good while Sent him a PM for a part today before I noticed he hadn't posted in over 9 months. Appreciate if anyone has any other contact info for him Thanks.
  17. 20 years I've owned my 94 SE. 222k miles. Bought it with 40k. Finally starting to succumb to the rust belt blues The body mainly. Frame still holding strong.
  18. Maybe.... He used a light to check for voltage at the starter solenoid. So hard to say if threshold voltage to activate it really is there. Not sure what was meant by booster but I thinking maybe he tried to jump the solenoid directly from the battery ? If that didn't work then its either the starter, starter solenoid or bad power wire or bad connection from the power wire to the starter. I had the typical starter issues that these trucks are prone to and used a jumper directly from the battery to the solenoid. (After replacing the starter at least twice and still getting the same intermittent no crank situation) This worked well and always turned the starter over. Course you have to open the hood and touch the wire to the battery everytime you need to start the vehicle. Works well with one person if you have an automatic. Probably need someone to depress the clutch in a manual trans. Then I came across a starter relay mod somewhere in this forum that solved the problem (which seems to be caused primarily by old wiring) If memory serves the basic premise is this: the ignition signal is used to activate a relay (which requires much less voltage to activate) the relay then allows direct battery voltage to the starter solenoid. I've had no more intermittent starting issues since doing this. But I still keep the jumper wire attached just in case
  19. Follow up. No more intermittent CEL and ECU Code 51 since changing the #1 fuel injector. For anyone else experiencing this, if the diagnostics check out and the injector ohms out within spec, check the plugs. It was the only place I could get a sign that there was something wrong with the dry carbon fouled plug. Thanks for suggestions on getting it out. I really was torquing the crap out of it with my hand to the point where I thought I was going to break off the plastic if I twisted any harder. I ended up getting a long right angle needle nose from HF to fit pretty well. That plus a couple squirts with acetone/ATF mix and it started rotating immediately. That tool has become indispensable to me for working on this truck. Works great for breaking coolant hoses loose on the hose nipples in back of the plenum too when you get around to taking that off. Which you will......LOL
  20. I have tried to pull them off of junkyard vehicles and they always break. I think you would have to get a new one and the best person to ask for that is Rob (Alkorahil on NPORA). Other option maybe to seal the gap with some clear silicone calk. Been thinking of doing this myself but haven't got around to it. I have Dynamat all over the drivers side door and floor along with some Reflectix to keep the floorboard heat down. It's still loud. I mostly keep off the highway and turn up the stereo. lol,
  21. Did it do the high idle from the minute you first drove it? or is this something new ?
  22. nvm. I found a pair of big right angle needle nose that fit pretty well without crushing the plastic and that got it moving . After that was just a matter of time BTW, there's a vendor on Ebay that has Beck Arnley injectors for late model WD21's for $ 20 a piece if anyone is needing to replace an injector.
  23. Finally we have better weather here and I got around to doing some truck repairs and cleaning today. I'm still getting that intermittent Code 51 despite the diagnostic check testing ok . A plug check showed dry fouling of the number one plug. Plug is getting spark so I decided to change out the fuel injector. I had to nudge one of the screws with a hammer and chisel but got the retaining cap off. Problem is I can't get that frickin thing to budge. I'm twisting pretty hard on it and nothing (maybe half a mm) but really, nothing. Cleaned all around it with a brush to scrape of any rust/debris. I'm thinking about disconnecting all spark and putting the fuel pump fuse in and cranking it a few times to see if the fuel pressure will push it out. Anybody done this or got a better idea how to get the injector loose ?
  24. Might want to clean MAF sensor if that hasn't been done. Also, fuel injectors will sometimes fail intermittently when engine hot but run perfectly fine when cold.

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