JackStraw1

Just came across this...http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Santech-A-C-System-O-Ring-Gasket-Kit/1994-Nissan-Datsun-Pathfinder-4WD/_/N-j0puhZ91tam?itemIdentifier=703892_912831_0_ Seems like it would work but I only need to replace the two. I guess I could look at replacing more now that the system is open.........

Yeah, I looked at the ones at Home Depot. Way too big. The original ones are 20 years old, dried out and a little deformed. Not sure if measureing would be that accurate. Also don't have calipers for measuring. I guess i'll take it in to auto parts store and see what is closest.

Hi guys, Replacing the O-rings on the high pressure line of my A/C. (94 Path SE) FSM says both are 12. I am not used to looking at O-rings this way. Advance Auto rep has no clue what this means. I googled it and found DANCO size 12 o-rings at Home Depot. 5/8 in. I.D. x 13/16 in. O.D. x 3/32 in. wall according to their specs. Anyone know if this is the right O-ring for this application ? Thanks

Ah, ok. Thanks.

Crap! that's what I was afraid of. Well I guess I have my July 4th weekend project now ! Can you please tell me or show me a pic of what a guinea pig bolt is ? That's a completely new one on me.

Yep. Right behind the grill. It holds the high pressure fitting to the condensor. I'm pretty sure it's that O-ring that's leaking. Looks like I'd have to take the grill off to drill it out. Did you have to re-tap it ? Were you able to do it on the vehicle or did you have to take it all out and do it on a bench ?

My A/C crapped out and so I took it to my mechanic and he leak tested it. Looks to be leaking where the highpressure line attaches to the condensor. Problem is that the single bolt that attaches it is frozen royally. i have PB Blastered it and let it sit, tapped on it, etc and still no luck. I'm pretty sure if I put more torque to it, the head will twist off. I see a couple other small bolts on the flange of the connection and loosened them and get a little separation between the flange and the condensor. I was thinkin this might be a good workaround but now I'm thinking that the flange is more likely to be welded to the condensor tubing internally and that prying apart would damage that connection. Although I'm not sure why the bolts are there other than to maybe stabilize and reinforce the connection. Anyone know about this? Appreciate any advice. (Finally getting hot here in NW PA, lol)

Agree. It's really ridiculous. So many cars with all metric parts and no one had these where I live. Makes you really wonder about who decides what goes on the shelves. I did find a assorted set on Amazon for $7.00 and change. I think I'll just go ahead and get it. I'm always losing these things.

Thanks !

Ok. Got the new VSS in and changed Transfer case fluid while I was there. Speedo and odo both working nicely again ! In comparing the old VSS to the new VSS there was definitely a difference in the way the shaft spun. The old one had a "catch" when spinning suggestive of bad bearings. I replaced the little snap ring that holds the pinion gear on the shaft with a 3/8" one. It was super tight and I'm a little concerned about metal fatigue and breakage. I tried the 7/16" snap ring and it was a little too loose IMO. So I'm guessing the snap ring is metric. Does anyone know the exact size? Went to AZ and Advance - neither one carried assorted snap rings in metric. Guess there's not too many of those new-fangled Japanese imports on the road as yet!

Yep. I scored a new , more sensitive Multimeter at good ol' Harbor freight. 20% off for father's Day too ! Zero volts register when spinning VSS or when in truck with rear jacked and in drive. Ordered a new VSS. I guess I'll see if that's really the problem.

I thought I would have a look and see why my speedo stopped working. I pulled codes 34 and 14. Knock sensor and VSS. I pulled the VSS and it looks OK to visual inspection. I am trying test for the 0.5 volt A/C by spinning the gear and checking with multimeter. I get nothing. I'm not sure if this is because my multimeter's lowest setting for A/C voltage is 200 and it just doesn't have the sensitivity to pick up the low voltage or I'm not spinning it fast enough (actually my wife has gracuously given of her time to do this,lol) I guess I could put it back in and try wth the rear end on stands and the truck in gear like Charles did. Wondering if anyone else has done this and gotten a good reading while spinning by hand? The pinion gear is in good shape and spins freely although there is a little "catch" as you spin it. Thanks

Very nice work around. I don't think the speaker wire will cause you a problem. I've got the dead speedo /odo too. I love to see a organized step-by-step how-to. Seems like most replace the cluster and/or the VSS but obviously from your description these are not the only issues that can be causing the problem. I struggle with wiring diagrams that you need a magnifier to read. Or maybe I'm officially old , lol Good pics too btw.

I had a problem that sounds somewhat like yours many many moons ago. The truck was purchased with General tires and when it was time to replace them, I put Generals on again. Everytime, I got above about 40mph there was a vibration to the front end that felt like I was driving over whoop-de-dos or on a Flintstone stone wheel,lol Long story short....one of the tires was out of round. Changed to a new tire.....same problem. Changed to a different brand and problem solved. Never came back Another thing that will sometimes feel like that is a broken steel belt in the tire. (I saw that your tires were new but you never know) No disrespect to General fans or any other tire but my guess is that they all can come with manufacturing defects. If the truck ran fine with old tires and doesn't with new tires, I would look at tires as being the source of problem. Either mounting balancing or out of round.

Are you sure that the water pump is bad and that you don't perhaps have a shot radiator as well ? Is the engine cranking and won't start ? or not cranking at all ? Check oil for antifreeze. That is often the case if head gasket is blown. Timing belt "jump" is kinda unusual. BTW, your post would be a lot easier to read if you could proof-read it first and correct typos where words run together

Thanks ! Room lamp fuse did the trick. Just don't want to drain the battery again tonight. I'll check out the hatch switch when the weather gets a little better. I'll pull the driver's rear switch tomorrow in the daylight and see if that's the culprit. it seemed to make the light flicker when i was pushing on the door but nothing when i push the switch directly. Kinda weird. But also the door isn't as tightly shut as it should be even though I've moved the "U" shaped bracket it latches to as far inboard as I can without drilling new holes. Stuff just gets old and tired I guess, and winter and telephone pole smacks to the door don't help matters much,

Hey all, Before I go out and pull them one by one I thought I'd throw this out in case someone knows off the top of their head. I had a little winter time door whack but even before that the footwell lights would flicker going around turns, Seems to be a problem with the driver's side rear switch or wiring but i really don't have time to mess with it right now. I just want the whole thing disabled . Preferably without also disabling the "headlights on" chime when the engine is off and door open. Discovered the problem yesterday after work when battery was dead. Had to disconnect battery today. Appreciate any help. Thanks.

Oh, ok. I saw that Rob listed a core charge of $60 so I assumed he would refund that if you sent the core. I check with him

Ok , thanks adamzan. It's really grinding loud when I turn the key and I've replaced it a couple times over the years so I'm starting to wonder if a damaged flywheel is chewing up the starter gear or if its just crappy starters + all the oil from the filter running down at each oil change. Gotta get this done before winter !

Ok - this thread caught my eye since my starter is grinding horribly with increasing frequency..... and has almost not turned over a few times lately. My concern is that there may be damage to the flywheel and a few teeth may have been mangled. I don't remember from the last time I changed it out but does anyone know if there is a flywheel inspection window where one can have a look. Or is the access through the starter - gear hole the only way to see in ? For Rob -do we pay shipping both ways ? ( Starter and core ) Is there any way to do this where I pay you and pick it up at local dealer ?

I checked the Energy Suspension kit. It is for a 24mm sway bar which is close to the 25 mm I thought. Thanks !

I'm looking to do sway bar bushings next. Anyone know the diameter of the sway bar. It looks to be ~ 25mm but I don't have calipers and can't seem to find it in the FSM

Got them pressed out and new ones pressed in. He didn't get them all the way in but they seemed to draw in when the spindle nuts were tightened. Looks ok. Hope it is. I'm gonna have to get a small press to do these things myself.

I don't think I can drill them out until I get that spindle out. Going to see a friend with a press tomorrow

Doing shocks and noticed that my UCA bushings appear worn. Took off the UCA and it looks like the bushings press out or screw out maybe ? The rod that passes through the UCA that then bolts the UCA to the truck does not spin freely (which I'm guessing it's supposed to) Appreciate any advice and/or pics. Thanks