JackStraw1

Not that I have seen. Might make a cool hamster wheel though, lol

Filthy Luker's picture links are all broken and doesn't look like he has been active for a while. Does anybody have pictures of transmission pan drop and flush ?

^^That is what I have always used on my '94.

^^^^^^^^^^^Agree, the HIDs don't do well in WD21s with stock light/reflector and are prob not a great upgrade for these in terms of the other motorists on the road, lol I did see a tremendous improvement however with just the standard headlight mod adding relays. (should still be in how to section I believe) I have mine powered directly off battery instead of alternator so lights can be turned on briefly without vehicle running. Easier to wire that way too.

Yeah, I already vacuumed it out but the problem is the condensation drain on the other side of the case in the back at the firewall drain. I have taken the front clips off and cracked the case a little. I can get just a little bit of a peek in there by pulling down on the front. It looks pretty clean but obviously something is blocking the drain. I'm gonna try to snake a coat hanger in there today and maybe flush it from the top side with some mild detergent. If that doesn't work, I'm gonna but a real compressor and blow the sucker out seriously. That's what I get for parking under live oaks for years in Florida to try and get a little bit of shade from the frickin' miserable heat down there, lol Wished I'd had room in my garage.

Hello again all, I'm having recurring clogging of evaporator box outflow and water in my 94 SE. I've cleaned it out as best I can through the resistor opening and blown out the drain tube. Works for a while and then comes back. I'd like to remove the bottom half of the case and clean out the 21 years of accumulated crud but it doesn't look possible without removing the case from the vehicle. I can't tell if there are clips behind but I'm guessing there are. I was thinking to loosen the mounting screws to get a little wiggle room and see if I could get it apart :O I imagine getting it back together would be a $##@. Anyone ever do this? Anyone have a decent picture of the back of the evaporator box ?

+1. Thinking about doing this myself. I've seen fairly decent results with just rattle can jobs but some of the Realtree wraps are just outstanding, esp Winter camo !

Glad to hear you got er back going. I still would strongly urge you to do the trans cooler, esp if that radiator is original. They have really come down in price and its an easy and quick bit of transmission protection.

It sounds like you may have issues related to transmission overheating. Overheating of the transmission is a well known issue in the WD21's and the cause of many dead transmissions Transmission cooler is one of the "must do" mods on the WD21 imo. I have the same year truck as you do. Had similar transmission problems. Ended up getting the transmission rebuilt many many years ago ($$) and installed transmission cooler. Haven't had a problem since.

Well, I feel a little better knowing I was not the only one, lol I hope the pics will help someone who may run into the same prob. Mods please feel free to move any of this to the TB section or change the thread heading to "Timing marks off" or something similar if you feel it would be of benefit to others. BTW, my initial timing came in at 10 degrees BTDC. I corrected it to 15 degrees BTDC per the FSM. I'm pretty sure the timing was accurate all along and that it just recently changed due to my monkeying around with the distributor while trying to get to the bottom of this. Still with a bit of a high idle though and still smells to be running rich. Didn't take out all the plugs because I didn't have air to blow out all the crud around them but the #1 plug looked pretty clean and not fouled like I would have expected with a chronic rich condition. So I'm thinking the smell is an exhaust leak issue.

Ok, I bet folks are just dying to know what happened with this, lol I was about to take off the crank pulley and had a chain strap around the pulley and was seeing if i could break the bolt loose before having to resort to heavier duty methods. The bolt start turning really easily ( or so I thought) . Turns out the pulley came right off of the rubber harmonic balancer. Looks like it is a three piece pulley to me. The rubber damper, the water pump/alternator pulley, the PS pump pulley which are together on one piece of metal and then the A/C pulley. They all bolt together and yes it can be put back together incorrectly and cause the timing marks to be off center. I don't see anything to indicate that the rubber part was ever bonded to the metal pulley. Someone please correct me if this is not true. Here's a few pics. The rubber damper bolted to the crank Three pulleys, 2 pieces 2 pieces apart Inner surface Interface between pulley and rubber damper. Inner pulley rotated so timing marks are at 12 o'clock The third pulley on. Timing marks at top. This looks much better to me. Time to but it all back together. I remember taking off the outermost pulley when I did the timing belt but I don't remember the inner part coming off the rubber damper. I guess it definitely rotated somewhere's along the way. Live and learn. Now if I could find some rubber washers for the ones that have dry rotted on my TB cover bolts

So..... still trying to get to the bottom of the crank pulley timing marks being off 45-90 degrees CCW. I pulled the upper timing belt cover and cranked the engine around by hand until I got the timing marks on the cam sprockets to line up with the marks on the belt and both of those to line up with the dimples on the rear TB cover. The #1 cylinder was TDC on compression stroke and the distributor rotor is pointing at the #1 cylinder. Here's what I'm seeing r So, since the crank pulley is keyed and can only go on one way.... I guess there are only two possibilites 1. the crank was not correctly positioned when I put the new belt on 3 years ago. (truck has been running well since then and although this seems to be the most likely possibility to me, I'm having a hard time believing that there would not have been a noticeable decrease in power or some kind of mechanical problem related to the valves in all that time of driving the vehicle) 2. The crank pulley has slipped on the rubber damper ( this seems very unlikely but I came across it when reading a few threads on other forums on timing to see if I had missed anything. It happened with some other vehicles, can't find any posts on whether it happened with a Pathfinder. Has anyone ever seen or heard of this? Is it even possible ? (I don't have a spare crank pulley to get a better look) Appreciate any thought before I have to go and take off the crank pulley and coolant and AT lines to get the lower timing cover off.

I don't know why you can't go back and edit a post beyond the first few minutes any longer but... that being said, there are pulleys with gears on the cams for timing. So timing gears. Don't know what I was thinking there in the previous post. Still.. you don't need to "open the engine" to access them and check.

So ... you put synthetic oil in and you think it all burned through the engine? and now you have regular oil and no leaking.? How long and ~ how many miles did you drive between putting in the synthetic oil and noticing that there was no oil in the engine? Did the exhaust smoke all the time ? (BTW, agree about not putting synthetic oil in older vehicles. The seals will usually leak like a sieve. Don't know about engine glazing. I think that is more likely if you did not notice that the oil was dry and you ran it for a while. The heat produced by driving like this would definitely tend to produce glazing) There is no "timing gear" per se and you don't need to "open up the engine" to check the timing belt, water pump, cam and front main seals. There are a a couple of very good DIY timing belt change threads on here with pictures. Have a look at those for a better idea of what is involved.

Do you know if that's the case on a 94 SE? I'm pretty sure it came off in one piece when I did the TB a few years back but I'm gettin old and can't be sure,lol ( been raining here all day and just got home from work. Haven't been able to crawl under and have a look ) Did it. Burped the system with front end jacked up too. Seemed to help a bit. Didn't open the air bleeder on the intake by the IAVC air regulator though. Figured I'd try to get the timing marks where they should be first.

Actually, that doesn't really make much sense. (I don't see a post edit feature so sorry for the multiple posts) The crank pulley is keyed and can only go on one way. Stumped.

I was looking through one of the older posts on timing belt change and from what I can see, it does look like the crank pulley can be mounted 90 off. I think that may be what you and I have going on here.

Well after looking through one of the older threads on timing belt replacement, it does appear that the crank pulley can be re-installed in different positions and this appears to be the case here. I think it was reinstalled 90 off CCW. No other reasonable explanation I can think of. If anyone else thinks it might be something else before I go to change the crank pulley position by all means post it up.

I think I would first try to figure out why there was no oil in your truck. That might lead you to the solution. Did you check around for obvious signs of leaking? Front and rear main seals? Pan gasket? Did you run over something?

Looks like I have the same problem. Just tried to time the ignition after doing valve cover gaskets and the marks are all counter clokwise to the pointer. TDC mark is about 9:00. Mine starts and runs just fine with the exception of high idle. I can't adjust the dist enough by rotating without killing the motor. I guess I musta re installed something off when I did the timing belt a few years ago, lol I'm debating whether to leave it or try to fix. Did you ever figure it out?

@Slartibartfast. I re-checked all vacuum lnes. All were in place and are where they are supposed to go. The only one I didn't replace was #7 from the EVAP purge to the back of the throttle body. That is on pretty tight and looks good too. Here's a really strange new finding. I put a timing light on it and the marks aren't even close. They are all counter clockwise to the pointer by about almost 70 degrees. I had the A/T in neutral, no load. Had the inductive lead on the #1 plug wire and yes it was pointed the right way. Truck is running pretty good despite this. Pointer looks a little bent too. Is it supposed to come straight out or does the tip point a little bit to the drivers side ? (mine does) Correct me if I am wrong but the crank pulley or HB can only go on one way because it is keyed right ? So I musta put the distributor in improperly when reassembling ? Can't believe the truck is running like this..........<smh> I don't think I can adjust the distributor enough by rotating it but I haven't tried yet. Seems like i would have to pull it, line up #1 at TDC and start from scratch. Thoughts?

The IACV connector looks to be on pretty good. The CEL did finally come on and threw out the codes for coolant sensor and knock sensor. Coolant sensor connector checks out OK, sensor itself also appears good ( I only checked with cold engine but ohms read where they are supposed to according to FSM. I guess I'll check with engine hot tomorrow). Knock sensor - idk, I'm thinking this will clear when idle issue is resolved. Cleared codes after checking out coolant sensor. It idled down to about 900 on its own tonight after retightening all hose clamps and jimmying the connectors but then crept back up after the test drive. During test drive the CEL kept winking in and out. I'm gonna borrow or buy a timing light and check that out tomorrow or Friday.

I don't think there is an re-learn procedure for WD-21's other than driving it for a while ? I had the battery disconnected during the work so that should have cleared the ECM - but i had no codes to begin with. Just doing routine maintenance.

Hey all, Happy Spring !!! Well, I finally got around to changing the valve cover gaskets after a looooong winter and 200k + miles Gaskets were leaking like a sieve and were so brittle they just snapped like pretzels, lol Intake plenum really didn't look too bad for the high miles but I cleaned it with carb cleaner anyway. Replaced the upper intake gasket with a new metal one. While I was there replaced a bunch of petrified breather hoses, the PCV valve and all the vacuum lines. So now, I have a high idle of around 1500 rpm at start up and it settles to maybe 1100 after warm up. I checked for coolant bubbles with the front jacked -- nada Visually checked the plenum gasket. Looks to be seated and symmetric. Bolts are tight. Checked for vacuum leaks - none that I can telll or hear. Interestingly, when I pull the hoses, I don't hear or feel vacuum. Haven't tried this with someone on the gas pedal but I would think there should be some vacuum at idle? Checked throttle plate - moves freely and it closes all the way ( the accelerator cable doesn't hold it open when pedal is up) EGR valve moves freely (its a little squeaky) - this does bring the idle down. Ran through the FSM testing for high idle - no change with clamping the air regulator hose or diconnecting the O2 sensor Checked the TPS for the hell of it. I get about 1. 4 kOhms closed, 4.5 kOhms at half open and nothing at WOT (supposed to read 9 kOhms). So this look like it is bad but I am not sure it is really related to what is happening with idle. Didn't really touch anything else so i'm thinking it has to be related to what I did (of course) but you never know with these older high mileage girls. Haven't checked the coolant sensor yet, but gauge is reading normally. Only other thing I can think of before gettin into the whole FSM testing ritual is that the ignition timing may be off a little because the distributor had to come out to take of the plenum. I did mark it and put it back the way it was but I'm thinking it could be off a bit and I don't have a timing light. Truck runs great otherwise with no hesitation, stalling, surge, or hunting idle. Exhaust is a little sweet smelling and has been for a while. (I think this may be related to leak) Check engine light is not on. Does the ECM store codes even if CEL doesn't come on ? Anyone experience this after pulling the upper intake ? Appreciate any advice. Thanks.

Well, that seemed like a good idea to me too until I took the compression fitting nut off that attaches the condensor to the drier/liquid tank and the thing just disintegrated on the inside where the threads are. No way to fix this that I am aware of. Need new condensor. Note to self: don't fix things that aint broke on a 20 year old truck