JackStraw1

So .. I pulled off the passenger side door panel and looked at the locking mechanism. I had forgotten that when I installed the door speakers many moons ago, I had sound/vibration proofed the door with Dynamat. I had to slowly peel it off of the door to get a look through the hole to the lock mechanism. What a royal PITA ! Anyhoo.. the mechanism appeared to have a lot of crud on it so I WD-40'd the living daylights out of it. It seems to be working more smoothly. I wish it was easier to take apart so that I could clean it properly but its a nightmare getting my hands in that little space to do much of anything. I'm waiting for the door handle to arrive so's I can get this side put back together before taking apart and cleaning the driver's side. Is it as difficult to take out, clean and replace the lock as it appears to be or am I seeing things wrong here?

Looks like grey to me - just faded with time.

Yeah the locks work fine when using the switch inside the driver's side door panel. It's only when trying to use the key from outside. I'm considering springing for a new keyfob to see if that works.

The random lock/unlock is a slightly different situation and is usually solved by replacing the door lock timer.

Thanks for input thus far. I'm gonna pull of the door panel and have look. I'll clean everything and see if that helps. @Slartiblastfast "running the solenoid against the key (so I have to hold the key and pull the handle or it'll turn the key back)." This is exactly what's happening. That's what I meant by "pulsing". Did you find a fix?

Sorry, it's a '94 SE power windows, locks, mirrors.

So....... last winter I had the strange door lock behaviour described in many threads on here. I replaced the door lock timer or whatever its called and the problem went away. Well its winter again so it must be door lock problem time. I have power locks but I do not use a remote. I stick the key in and turn once for driver's side and twice for all locks to open. As it has gotten colder, when I turn the key, the lock just pulsates but doesn't "catch". The passenger side tends to work properly so I often use that if the driver's side is not catching. Sometimes I can open the door in between pulsations on either side. I've also noted that the rear windows operate verrrry slowly now. Everything works fine in warmer weather. Tonight, I could not get the drive's side to open at all - not even in between pulsations like usually. I went to the passenger side, turned the lock and it too was pulsing and not catching. I pulled up on the handle in between pulses and the handle came off in my hand. Nice. Anyhow, i got into the car and now have it in the garage with door locks open ! I know I can remove door lock timer to go completely manual. But since I gotta replace my exterior door handle at some point, I might as well see if i can fix this whole thing. My guess is old wiring similar to the dim headlight issue in these older vehicles. Is there a similar type of fix using a relay that anyone has used. I guess i could jumper a wire directly from the battery and see if this improves performance. If not I guess it would most likely be the actuator? I'd love to hear some thoughts from anyone who has had similar problem and gotten it fixed. Jack

Sorry, I don't know how to post an image here but I am referring to the algorithm and diagrams in EF & EC -97 in the FSM. Maybe someone else can post that up. Thanks.

Ok so My CEL which had been intermittently coming on for the past 4 months finally came on and stayed on this past week. Checked the codes and got 33 and 34. O2 sensor and knock sensor. Then the O2 sensor code went away and just the knock sensor code kept popping. Not quite knowing what to make of this, I ran the Mode 1 and Mode 2 diagnostics. Absolutely no LED's at all. Not good. So.... I began to run thru the testing algorithm for O2 sensor. First I checked the voltage at terminal "c" with the ignition on ( I tested the female plug coming from the ECS ) - nothing - 0 volts Then I checked the 15A fuses under the dash - all OK Now it says to check continuity between the O2 sensor harness and the ignition switch - and I am confused as to how to do this. I know how to check continuity. I just can't figure out where. If I am reading the diagram right (and that's a big if folks) then the B/W wire is from the ignition and is the "a" terminal. Where is the continuity supposed to exist ? between "a" and "b" or "a" and "c" ? Sure would appreciate any help here. Thanks

Agree with above. I just had this happen in my '94. Turned out I was still in diagnostic mode 3. Everytime the red LED flickers as part of the 55 code your CEL will flicker too. In my truck I clear the codes by going from mode 3 to mode 4 while the ignition is on as per the FSM then turn off ignition. Cured it for me.

Makes sense. I'll try 10W-40 at next oil change. If that doesn't help I'll try the Lucas additive. Maybe a little OT but, I was sitting in the bank parking lot today (payday !!!) talking to my Dad on the phone and I noticed that I could rev the engine up to around 2500 rpm without any of what I had thought was valve or lifter "ticking". When the vehicle is in gear and I'm on the gas it makes the noise continuously. Foot off gas - no noise. Didn't make sense to me because I figure if it was valve-train noise it should be there all the time. I took a look around and it looks like I have a missing nut on one of the exhaust manifold studs on the right side(doesn't look like the stud is broken cuz I can see enough threads to place a nut)so now I'm thinking this is the infamous exhaust "ticking" made worse by the cold weather. I'm kinda reluctant to put a nut on the exhaust manifold stud and tighten it in case it breaks (looks pretty dang rusted). I figure a good time to do this would be if/when I pull the motor to do the RMS. (Otherwise known as Summer ) The other problem is that I smell gas in the exhaust all the time and this made more sense to me with a stuck valve. BTW, I recently had a fuel injector replaced and replaced some nasty looking plugs at the same time. The engine runs great. Starts every time, idles nicely right around 1000-1200, no blue smoke out the exhaust. No significant oil loss other than the seals I mentioned. The only other possibility that makes sense to me is that there is pre-detonation or "pinging" but it sounds way too low pitched to me to be pinging but that might explain the sweet gas smell from the exhaust. Gas mileage on the highway is not too bad though. But city mileage sucks right now. IDK, I had a few instances of CEL right after the injector replacement which I thought was just the system clearing itself. But I think I need to check codes here. Sorry for the rambling post, don't mean to jack the thread. It just sort of all ties together for me now. Please move it if you'd rather have it elsewhere. Appreciate any thoughts.

This is what's happened here with my '94SE. Motor's @ 170,00 + and I just tried running synthetic 5W-30 after moving to the Great White North after having run 20W- 50 pretty much the whole life of the vehicle in the Deep Hot South. I'm also getting continuous valve "ticking". Under the vehicle it looks like I'm leaking from both the FMS and RMS. Although not much. So I'm wondering what the best course of action would be here. Guess I'll go back to 20W-50 and see what happens because I'm not too thrilled about the prospect of pulling engine to replace seals, inspect valve train,etc. As for the future it seems like buying a used low mileage motor might be a better deal than rebuilding this one. Whadda y'all think ?

I agree. Looks pretty good. Problem is I already ordered the dual make relays from Summit. Oh well. I'll get to make a heavier duty one with 12 g wire. Your ebay search skills are vastly superior to mine. I actually searched for something like this. Thanks.

That's it exactly ! Wish it was available locally. I'm gonna put them in when the weather warms up and the wires aren't as stiff as welding rods ! What size fuses are recommended for this application ? I have 35A inline Buss in place now but I think that's a bit too high an amperage rating. Might fry some of the older wiring if there's a short in the system before these big fuses blow.

I don't see a link above. Can you re-post ? Drove at night last night for the first time since the mod. It's a wonder I didn't have an accident with the old lighting. So much better now. My low beams are like my Hi beams on the old setup ! Seriously. I just drove through the entire state of WV at night averaging 75-80 behind some big rigs. I wouldn'ta seen a deer until it was in the seat beside me. Just lucky that time. Now if i just get those new eyeglasses so I can see in all that glorious light ................

Well.......... It took a while thanks to some crappy Chinese -made electrical connectors from harbor-freight, but she's all back together. I used the side where the Hi and Low beams were both working and wired that to the relays. Then new sockets and wires. Running it from the battery right now cuz it looks like I'd have to pull the alty to access the output terminal. I'll save that for a day when I have a ride to the store and can do the upgrqde to a maxima alty. Having done it and being only able to access one side and "jumping" to the other side with only 2 relays - I would have preferred to use the "double make" relays with 2 x 87 terminal outputs so I could run one wire from terminal all the way to socket without splicing. Anyone know a good source for those ? Threw in a couple of Xtravisions from Wally-world. Light output is better for sure. Thanks for this nice mod. Merry Christmas to all.

So... it sounds like you're voting for splicing in right at the bulb connector which is where I'm guessing the pre-built harness would attach. Ok. BTW, I have no problem lopping off old electrical connectors or bypassing with new wires. Most of the ones on my 170K + mile vehicle turn to dust when you manipulate them anyway. Any votes for bypassing all the way to the firewall ?

Ok - it looks as though leaving the lock timer unit out will still allow the locks to be used manually and stop the annoying BS. The rear hatch has a child safety kind of lever that you have to flip in order for it to lock and there's no way to re-open it without re-installing the lock timer. But you can access the rear cargo area through the window hatch.

Ok.. back to the main thread topic. I was planning to do this in the Spring but since I just failed inspection for no passenger side hi-beam, I guess I'll do it now. I understand what's going on with this mod for the most part but before I cut into the harness I'd like to know where to do so. My FSM wiring diagram shows the wires from the switch running through a bunch of other stuff before getting to the headlights so........ is it better to bypass everything and cut in as close to the firewall as possible? or is it just as good to cut in right before the socket ? (I'm thinking close to firewall) BTW, My FSM shows the wire colors to be R/Y and B coming off the switch and carrying through the firewall. Does that jive with what you all have found? Anyone got a pic of where they cut in ? (It's friggin' cold out man - don't want to waste anytime if i can get a clear answer here) Thanks.

Ok ... my '94 is having the wildly erratic locking/unlocking behavior. I pulled the door lock timer and took it apart. I don't see any cold welds or broken solder joints. I guess I'll replace it anyway if I can get it cheap. There are several on fee-bay that are pulled from Maximas but have the same product number. They should work., right ? Is there anything else that commonly causes this behavior? Also, if I leave the door lock timer out will manual locking and unlocking work (at least on the driver's side) ? I'm not worried about locking myself out. i just don't want my car opening itself to the world when I'm not around. Thanks

Spot on Kingman and Nige. Thanks guys. It was water in the plug-wire boot on # 5 cylinder. I woulda thought that this would give it trouble starting but like I said it fired right up every time. So I pulled all the boots and blew 'em dry and then yanked the plugs and they looked like crap too. So gots me some new plugs. The plug-wire also had a little rust inside so I guess this has happened before and the water sat for awhile. Put it back together and test drove just fine. It even seems to have cured the upshift delay that I was getting where the AT seemed to want to hang on to its lower gear and not upshift without me backing off the pedal a smidge. But i need to drive it some more before giving it a complete pass. I try to clean it when its hot and running to evaporate any water but I guess that didn't work so well. Thanks for the tips Precise1. I understand the flammable aerosol for vacuum lines principle (I'm thinking carb cleaner would work well) but I'm not really following on the WD-40 for electrical connectors although I do remember hearing something about that before too. What do you do and how does it work? BTW, I checked the MAF and TB connectors too - both dry. I also took the opportunity to pull the MAF sensor and clean the electrodes as posted elsewhere by 88pathoffroad I believe. Maybe I should replace the plug wires too?

Hi folks, I was doing some cleaning/degreasing in the engine bay of my '94 SE today. Little bit a brushing. Little rinse with water - nothing too heavy duty and all done with the motor running. Much later................................................... When I went to go get gas - truck fires up no problem. Idle seems OK. When I put 'er in Drive - engine immediately lugs and chugs. Sounds like it's running on 5 cylinders. So I'm thinkin' "you dumba$$, you prolly knocked off a vacuum hose or got some water where you shouldn't. Initial inspection of the hoses looks OK. I pulled apart several connectors - dry as a bone. Distributor - dry as a bone. I wait. Eat more turkey. Watch some really bad football. Go out to garage. Again, truck starts right up(starter relay mod works beautifully) So, I think that rules out electrical/water problems. Still drives like dogs**t as soon as its put under load (in gear). I gotta drive this truck 1000 miles tomorrow. I'm still thinkin' vacuum lines - so I may replace them tomorrow, but I would really like to know what others think. (Other than the obvious "ur a dumba$$") Really, really appreciate any help. Oh yeah, Happy Thanksgiving all.

Nice vid Jim ! Really well produced. Could you share where you sourced that relocation kit ? BTW, I have the same year and color but the SE. So your mods are pretty much the prototype for me. Thanks.

Yeah, I'm moving from an area where high outdoor temps are the concern to one where low ones are way more common. So.. I guess the thing to do is to get that tranny temp gauge so's I know what's what. Don't want to over-cool in winter. Thanks.

Sorry,found most of my answers in another thread. Gonna change fluid today and look at getting a larger cooler. The majority seem to favor bypassing the stock cooler.