devonianwalk Posted August 27, 2011 Author Share Posted August 27, 2011 Maybe the body lift helps But I did my dads plugs (2000 r50) and it wasn't that bad. Hey .. wait a minute! R50's don't have body lifts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 Just be a little bit patient. and staying calm gets the job done. B That's two things I can never seem to do when working on my pathfinder! I have to make sure I don't have any big hammers close by before I start. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 I think Adam was talking wd21 at first there... either way just be patient. Take a break if you start getting agrivated and work on a puzzle or something... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 The number six plug, I don't find it that hard at all. There is an indentation in the firewall. I used 2 6" extensions with the universal joint in the middle, and have it out and changed in less than 10 minutes! Well then, you are just a mechanic GOD!!! That's two things I can never seem to do when working on my pathfinder! I have to make sure I don't have any big hammers close by before I start. James I've learned to walk away when I start getting pissed, or I'm bound to do more harm than good. That said, we have a spare car so rarely am I forced to repair something to a immediate deadline. It is set up this way on purpose... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 Hey .. wait a minute! R50's don't have body lifts! What nunya said I think Adam was talking wd21 at first there... either way just be patient. Take a break if you start getting agrivated and work on a puzzle or something... Yep Well then, you are just a mechanic GOD!!! I've learned to walk away when I start getting pissed, or I'm bound to do more harm than good. That said, we have a spare car so rarely am I forced to repair something to a immediate deadline. It is set up this way on purpose... B I'm no god. I'm actually an idiot but I just went at it slowly (you can see it actually on my wd21) and it just hasn't been an issue for me. I am hoping to set up my other wd21 as my backup (aka no mods) car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 (edited) Adamzan had a point in that it only took me ten minutes to replace the #6 plug. After I figured out to loosen and pull the three brake lines away from the firewall, it was relativley easy to place the 3" socket extension, universal joint, and 5/8" spark plug socket directly to the plug before dropping the 8" extension into place. Now that all of my plugs have been replaced, the dadgum thing still won't start. I'm going to put my volt meter to various plugs on the distributor to determine if I've some how lost some sensors. Does any one know how to check the TPS? Edited August 29, 2011 by devonianwalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 All the info for testing the various sensors and the distributor is in the FSM. There is a download link in the garage if you don't have it. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 All the info for testing the various sensors and the distributor is in the FSM. There is a download link in the garage if you don't have it. James Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaMountianbiker Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Is that thing running yet ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 Is that thing running yet ???? Nope. I really haven't had a lot of time to play with it. I did replace my distributor cap and ignition rotor (neither of which remedied my problem). I can smell fuel which leads me to believe that I'm getting no spark. Gonna' pull some plugs with the help of a friend and check for little bolts of lightning. 'Till then, I'm chilling around town topless in the Miata! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted September 5, 2011 Author Share Posted September 5, 2011 Alrighty then. Today (with a friends help) I determined that some how my timing jumped. After checking for spark, we advanced the distributor and got her to "vroom". She sounds like she has an awful cold but, knowing that the timing is off we are going to remove the TB and re-adjust every thing. Now I'm wondering how in the hell the timing could jump like that? I'll take pics when we get around to it in a couple of weeks to see if mud/grit got in the timing belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 The number six plug, I don't find it that hard at all. There is an indentation in the firewall. I used 2 6" extensions with the universal joint in the middle, and have it out and changed in less than 10 minutes! Im with Adamzan on this one! I use a 6 and a 4 and its the perfect length. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 (edited) timing usually jumps from the belt being old/loose. I just cant see that being the problem. Tell me, how many degrees + or - did you have to adjust the timing to get it to run? I am sort of wondering if your VTC solenoids/motors got fried and its not adjusting the timing and/or they are stuck, thus you had to move the distributor to get it to run. Edited September 9, 2011 by Alkorahil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 Alrighty then. Today (with a friends help) I determined that some how my timing jumped. After checking for spark, we advanced the distributor and got her to "vroom". She sounds like she has an awful cold but, knowing that the timing is off we are going to remove the TB and re-adjust every thing. Now I'm wondering how in the hell the timing could jump like that? I'll take pics when we get around to it in a couple of weeks to see if mud/grit got in the timing belt. You were reving the hell out of it, right?? When was the last time the belt was changed? I'll bet there is mud in there too so if it got wet or packed with mud and revved hard I could see it jumping a tooth or two. Also, in retrospect, I imagine that the round tooth belts are more likely to jump than the square tooth... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 A tire will hydroplane on water... maybe a timing belt will, uh, mudroplane? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddog_75 Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 your crank angle sensor probably failed... if it has one? happens in mud racing on petrol cars... or spark pack (if it has one) is gone, aka check distributor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 (edited) timing usually jumps from the belt being old/loose. I just cant see that being the problem. Tell me, how many degrees + or - did you have to adjust the timing to get it to run? I am sort of wondering if your VTC solenoids/motors got fried and its not adjusting the timing and/or they are stuck, thus you had to move the distributor to get it to run. VTC solenoids huh? I'll have to look that one up before we open her up. *edit ... I forgot to mention that it is a new belt (less than 5k on it) Edited September 13, 2011 by devonianwalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Ok, probably not the belt then... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 Ok, probably not the belt then... B I still believe the timing jumped. I have read the "How to" thread on the TB change and have removed everything up to the crank pully. I recall hearing a slight noise when the TB was changed a few months ago (which got quieter as time went on). I have yet to remove the TB covers but, have already noticed that the bottom bolt that closes up the bottom cover is missing. There is an obvious gap which kind of has me freeked out. Also, there is a lot of dried up mud in that area as well. I'll post some pics in the next day or so as I find some time to open it up and inspect the belt itself. Is it possible for the belt to jump if it gets wet? I can see if enough grit got in between the teeth and the belt but, what about water? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Water is technically a lubricant, but that alone shouldn't cause a belt in proper adjustment and condition to jump as I understand it. Packed with mud on the other hand... I'd really just go by what you see when you pull the covers and inspect at this point. I hope it's as minor as possible... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Yeah, probably getting your belt wet isn't the best idea, but I really don't see how it would cause it to jump if everything else was adjusted properly etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBDIII Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 At the very least, now you have a great photo for your sig! In my personal experience in replacing timing belts(Various non-Nissan vehicles, mostly VW's) I've found the the most common failure is the teeth stripping right off the belt. Mostly at the crank pulley. Hopefully that's not your problem. You can tell very easily if the belt is blown or not by turning over the engine with one of the covers removed, or taking the valve cover off the passenger side of the engine. If the belt turns with the engine, or you can see the valve train rotate in the head then the belt isn't the problem. The fact that your truck ran most of the way home is a good thing, just put the pieces together. I took the liberty of formulating a few obvious deductions... A.)Truck runs great before mud -Cool B.)Truck runs stinky after mud -Mud is wet -Poor idle -Power loss -Running hot -Clogged air filter -CEL C.)Truck STOPS running/won't start after power wash -Water is very wet -Misplaced water can be creating an arc in the ignition path, grounding your spark before it gets to the plug D.)Truck runs when you play with the dizzy -You advanced the timing, that's why the engine raced when you got it to run. If you advance too much you'll get a spark advanced detonation when throttle is applied, this will sound like a knock in the engine. -Set the dizzy angle back where you found it, no adjustments are necessary. There a pieces of the puzzle missing though, and I have two questions that when answered may provide clues. 1.) Did you roll the truck off the trailer, or start the truck and drive off? 2.) Why haven't you scanned the trouble code yet to diagnose the CEL? Hope you find answers! -Mario Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 Thank you for the feedback Mario. We just rolled the truck off of the trailer. I've had a CEL for over a year now (O2 sensor) but, I guess that would make sense to read it again. I did have the flashing CEL Which indicated a misfire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 Forgot to ask ... Is it at all possible for the belt to jump just one of the cams? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 (edited) Forgot to ask ... Is it at all possible for the belt to jump just one of the cams? It should be hard for the belt to jump anywhere, but, assuming it happened, then yes, if one of the cam sprockets is where it jumps, then only that cam will be affected. If it jumps at the crank sprocket then both are affected... My friends minivan has an idler pulley in between the two cam sprockets and lower that the belt has to run around. Presumably this is to increase the contact area with the sprockets (more teeth engaged) to reduce jumping? Kinda disturbing. Edited September 15, 2011 by sewebster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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