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Mud Sick


devonianwalk
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Okie-dokie. I had fun (too much fun) in the mud Saturday. While I pride myself in the fact that hundreds of rednecks were cheering on the "little white Pathfinder" not getting stuck in the knee deep mud, I feel the hang-over of the mess and clean up that was sure to ensue.

 

Here's the delimea ..

 

She was running hot due the caked up mud in the rad. I managed to limp her home a couple of miles at a time when the CEL started flashing. I finally threw in the towel and called a buddy of mine that got her home via car trailer. After I pressure washed all of the mud out from under the hood today, I can not get it to crank. I have checked the MAF, Distributor, and various wires and hoses. I am going to pull the passenger side plugs tomorrow (after the water dries) and check them for fouling. Can any of you suggest anything else to check while I'm pouting about the fact that that was the last time I go mudding?

 

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Flashing SES light means a misfire is detected. You said it wouldn't crank, you mean the motor won't turn over at all? Does the starter even click. If it won't turn over I would look at the starter and the wires running to it.

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Flashing SES light means a misfire is detected. You said it wouldn't crank, you mean the motor won't turn over at all? Does the starter even click. If it won't turn over I would look at the starter and the wires running to it.

 

 

My mistake, it will "turn over". It just won't start. There seems to be no fire at all. I can sometimes get it to start by giving it full throttle. When it does, it has lots of knock with the heavy smell of gas. That is what leads me to think that it has something to do with the plugs since the distributor visually checks out and, as you mentioned, the flashing CEL.

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check you air filter.... hopefully it is not wet and full of mud...if so it means the engine might eaten a few dose of it.... If I were you, I would check this before trying to start it again... you might make more damage.... check the air filter first

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Ok, you got rid of the mud but soaked everything in the process. Let everything dry out, then check/WD40 all ignition components.

Obviously check your air filter as fleurys said.

 

B

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Make sure there is no @!*% in the plug holes before you take the plugs out so nothing gets in there. Then take the plugs out and let it air out for a while. Like fleurys said check your air filter if you got water in there that could bend valves but that is worse case.

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The air filter was wet and filthy. The back side of it, however, was clean and dry. I checked the MAF and it appeared to be clean. I re-rinsed the tops of the plugs yesterday afternoon and left the hood up today to allow them to dry. I'll pull the passenger side plugs this afternoon.

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Make sure there is no @!*% in the plug holes before you take the plugs out so nothing gets in there. Then take the plugs out and let it air out for a while. Like fleurys said check your air filter if you got water in there that could bend valves but that is worse case.

 

if water got in there, he could bend piston rods, then you're basically looking at a tear down and rebuild!

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Try disconnecting the MAF meter and see if it starts. It could of just gave up. Unpluggin it will put it in limp mode(it will set a code), and you should be able to start it. You could also crank it over with all the plugs out(ignition disabled of course). This will help dry all the cylinders out.

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Try disconnecting the MAF meter and see if it starts. It could of just gave up. Unpluggin it will put it in limp mode(it will set a code), and you should be able to start it. You could also crank it over with all the plugs out(ignition disabled of course). This will help dry all the cylinders out.

 

I did this on my truck, just messin around. and good lord... it looked like a diesel, just blowing black smoke like crazy!

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I did this on my truck, just messin around. and good lord... it looked like a diesel, just blowing black smoke like crazy!

 

I'll try that first. She was putting out black smoke and had a very heavy odor of gasoline.

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Jebus! This is the first time I've tried to change the plugs myself on the 3.3L. Looks like I'm going to pick up an extra long rachet extension and figure out just how in the hell I'm going to get that infamous #6 plug. :headwall:

 

I'm also going to use the air compressor to blow out the remaining water/silt that is currently sitting on top of my plugs.

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The wife's 99 R50 had acorn husks and mouse sheit filling the plug wells. I had to vacuum, dig, pry and wipe. Point is, it's the last step that matters so go get some long cotton swabs (medical supply store) and wipe around the plug before and after removal. You don't want crap dropping into the cylinder and you want to make sure the sealing surface is clean too...

 

Oh, you should have the right tool in your under-seat tool bag, but if not, a 6" extension with a universal joint and the right spark plug socket should get you there. My advice is to use a mirror to see the plug and well, put the socket/extension on it and mark the free floating point with a marker n the fire wall.

You will use this same alignment mark as reference when you hand thread in the new plug...

 

B

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... My advice is to use a mirror to see the plug and well, put the socket/extension on it and mark the free floating point with a marker n the fire wall.

You will use this same alignment mark as reference when you hand thread in the new plug...

 

B

 

 

Thank you. Thank you. THANK YOU! Great advice. I will pick up a mirror when I get the u-joint extension. I work in a lab and have access to the cotton tip applicators. I'm a gonna' steal from work today!

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Thank you. Thank you. THANK YOU! Great advice. I will pick up a mirror when I get the u-joint extension. I work in a lab and have access to the cotton tip applicators. I'm a gonna' steal from work today!

Worked for me... :shrug:

:D

Just be a little bit patient. It is a pain and can take a few tries, but the right approach and staying calm gets the job done. :aok:

 

Funny, my work has those too... :whistle:

 

Good lord man!

:rofl:

 

B

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Okay, 1,2,3,4,and 5 are done. I'll tackle #6 tomorrow morning.

 

I used an air compressor to blow out the plug locations before I completely removed the old plugs. Man, these things look shot! I'm glad that I had a foot of fuel line left over from replacing the fuel system on my "hot rod" (you know the one? Only drive it on the weekends. Never drive it in the rain. Has a 42" cut) to use for threading the new plugs. I used some anti-seize so that I won't be so bummed next time around.

 

I took Precise's recommendation and grabed a mechanic's mirror and an 8" socket extension along with the universal joint attachment. Hopefully I can find the patience!

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The number six plug, I don't find it that hard at all. There is an indentation in the firewall. I used 2 6" extensions with the universal joint in the middle, and have it out and changed in less than 10 minutes!

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The number six plug, I don't find it that hard at all. There is an indentation in the firewall. I used 2 6" extensions with the universal joint in the middle, and have it out and changed in less than 10 minutes!

 

 

10 minutes? Where's that middle finger emoticon? ... :angry:

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