OBDIII

I'm relatively new here so please correct me if I'm wrong, but I remember reading that the user "MichiganAve"(with the awesome QX4) bought their bumper(s) from KMA (now TAG). I would go as far as to assume that the transaction went smoothly, because it was a recommendation to another user. I can't find the thread or post where I saw it but I remember getting the name of the company from that post. I was hoping to use them as well for my bumpers come this summer. Was there multiple instances of negative feedback for the company? I don't mean to insult anybody but I know sometimes one unhappy customer can tarnish a reputation enough to ruin a Company for good. If you guys can let me in on the bad news I'll save my money for a more reputable fab shop. Thanks, Mario

Thanks for the kind greetings. I also added a video I made of some of my recent wheeling for your enjoyment! Thanks alot! The idea just occurred to me out of the clear blue sky. I hope it catches on, the best part is that you can usually find a pallet for free. I'm usually broke so it was an instant hit. -Mario

Hello members! Happy to join up and be part of what's so far been an incredibly friendly, informative forum. I live, work, and go to college in Connecticut, and if your local, I'm always up to taking the truck in the woods and testing my 4wheeling skills. As well as my recent obsession with wheeling I'm also an avid outdoorsman. Hiking, fishing, camping, and rock climbing strike a few of my favorite things. So drop a line if your an adventure enthusiast too, always into making friends as well. I've made a couple posts before this debut here but I just put together a couple pictures of the Path and I's adventures so far, and thought I'd post here first. Videos as soon as I figure out how to get them off my android and onto a movie editor. Hope you enjoy, Mario Video I made of some wheelin adventures: 1997 NISSAN PATHFINDER SE 4X4 5sp

I'd like to contribute my current setup, the Craigs-Junkyard-List Special! TRUCK: 1997 SE 4x4 5spd LIFT: NO LIFT TIRES:El-Dorado MTZ Sport 265/75/R16 RIMS: 1995 Honda Passport 12 slot Alloys 16x7.5 w/ 4"ish Backspacing VERDICT: No rub in the rear, flexed as far as stock can go(sway bar still connected) Front fender wells I hit with a heat gun and while still gooey I formed them away from the areas where they contacted the bigger tires. There is now at least 1" of clearance at any point all around the tires in the front wheel wells. Cleared the strut no problems. The only rubbing occurs while going in reverse with the steering wheel locked to the right. -Mario Edit: Pics added

I keep reading about strapping up F250 shocks, but haven't gathered the make/model of the F250 in question... Mind clearing it up for me? I don't really want to burn $80/shock for the Ranchos, when pickup truck shocks are usually $30 with the same travel. I appreciate any info. Thanks, Mario BTW: Beautiful SFD, beats paying $500+shipping on the prefabbed. If you ever feel like building another set minus the steering parts, I'd gladly buy it

Don't sweat it, always willing to speculate. I'll admit, I have bad O2's too, killing my fuel economy... The flashing CEL can be any number of detrimental engine codes though: Like knock sensor, cam sensor implausible signal, coolant temp, Low oil pressure, ect. I think in your case the engine realized it couldn't pull enough timing retard to correct a detonation, cause by an out of place valve from a timing slip. If it were me, I'd use some old fashioned elbow grease for the timing components. Maybe wash the mud off with a hose or something, the cam and crank seals only like to see up to about 60-80PSI max in oil pressure, so 300PSI of water pressure would probably blow past them. Good thing is the timing's easy to do on these trucks, find a good blow-by-blow (probably on this site, haven't searched myself) and take your time. Nothing a backyard mechanic can't get done in a day, doesn't take anything more specialized than a set of metric sockets/wrenches, a few hand tools, and a torque wrench. With that much muck the belt could have just slipped. That wouldn't warrant brand new parts as far as I'm concerned, given you reset the timing and clean everything nice. HOWEVER, the bad news is yours is an interference engine, meaning that if the timing belt breaks, or slips, there is a possibility of valve train and/or piston damage resultant from valve-piston contact. Your going to want to take off the intake manifold and stick your eyeball, or a boroscope in there to assess any possible damage(bent valves) Good luck d00d, any general mechanical questions post em up! I'm a pretty seasoned mechanic, and always willing to help where I can. -Mario PS. The best way to break the bolt on the Harmonic balancer(Crank pulley) is to pin a 1/2" drive ratchet in the OFF/Reverse position with correct size socket on the crank bolt against the underneath of the driverside framerail(I propped a 4x4 piece of wood between the ratchet handle and the ground). Then just zap the ignition for a half second to turn the starter, the little 1/4 turn you'll get should pop the big bolt for you. (DO NOT hold the ratchet, use something to prop it up and stay out from under the truck, in case the ratchet flies out) Okay, I'm done now

At the very least, now you have a great photo for your sig! In my personal experience in replacing timing belts(Various non-Nissan vehicles, mostly VW's) I've found the the most common failure is the teeth stripping right off the belt. Mostly at the crank pulley. Hopefully that's not your problem. You can tell very easily if the belt is blown or not by turning over the engine with one of the covers removed, or taking the valve cover off the passenger side of the engine. If the belt turns with the engine, or you can see the valve train rotate in the head then the belt isn't the problem. The fact that your truck ran most of the way home is a good thing, just put the pieces together. I took the liberty of formulating a few obvious deductions... A.)Truck runs great before mud -Cool B.)Truck runs stinky after mud -Mud is wet -Poor idle -Power loss -Running hot -Clogged air filter -CEL C.)Truck STOPS running/won't start after power wash -Water is very wet -Misplaced water can be creating an arc in the ignition path, grounding your spark before it gets to the plug D.)Truck runs when you play with the dizzy -You advanced the timing, that's why the engine raced when you got it to run. If you advance too much you'll get a spark advanced detonation when throttle is applied, this will sound like a knock in the engine. -Set the dizzy angle back where you found it, no adjustments are necessary. There a pieces of the puzzle missing though, and I have two questions that when answered may provide clues. 1.) Did you roll the truck off the trailer, or start the truck and drive off? 2.) Why haven't you scanned the trouble code yet to diagnose the CEL? Hope you find answers! -Mario

Yea those BFG's are pricy. My buddy just paid $1175 for five 33x10.5x15 for his jeep(CT prices) Great tire though from what I hear/read. Hey if you wouldn't mind can you explain to me how the tire carrier is mounted to the truck? It kind of looks like it's bolted up but I can't be sure. If that is the case though I'll have to keep my eyes peeled at the junkyard for a pathy that has one, so I can yank it. -Mario

Hello all, first post for me...(Next stop Newbie Forum) Question: Is 4" necessary.. Or just common? I'm just thinking that if your going to add custom strut spacers to a custom SFD anyway. Than in theory the ammount of lift can be any denomination, ex: 2.5" 3" 5" and so on... Or is 4" where everything tops out in the front end, like steering components and driveshaft angle. I'm going for knowledge on the drop too. I'm sitting on OME HD Coils for the front, and Jeep coils for the rear(4" XJ Lift) But I'm not doing anything until I fabricate blocks and spacers to compliment the lift coming from those. All info is appreciated. -Mario

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Great looking truck, they DO look great with fat tires and a mild lift. I have to say I'm extremely jealous of your spare tire carrier.. Mine mounts under the rear bumper area Good work!