Ozzker Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 So, I took my 1988 Pathy in today for an E-Test as Im trying to get it on the road, and it failed pretty horribly. The readings were: Does anybody have any insight as to where I should start in diagnosing and fixing this?! Engine doesn't burn oil, has 340000KMs and has just had new plugs, wires, and distributer put in. Thanks in advance!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 Your cat is probably bad dude. That's what my numbers looked like when it was bad. A shop that does emissions work can do this test on the cat where they drill holes on either side in the exhaust and measure it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzker Posted March 8, 2011 Author Share Posted March 8, 2011 I assumed Cat as well. Taking it to my shop Friday for a Cat, driving it all weekend, and getting it re-tested Monday, see where I'm at!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 Looks like a sad converter to me too... specially that co reading difference between idle and tached up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzker Posted March 8, 2011 Author Share Posted March 8, 2011 (edited) Thanks!! Converter is getting done Monday, And I will also run a bottle of seafoam through the truck prior to that, to empty out all the nastys from the engine!! Edited March 8, 2011 by Ozzker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 a high HC count is unburnt fuel. do a tune up, replace the o2 sensor along with it, and get a new cat. I see they are a bit more strict there, than here in Washington state! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzker Posted March 9, 2011 Author Share Posted March 9, 2011 They are strict up here, and for a 23yr old vehicle, it sucks. Update: Seafoamed. After 8 minutes of Revs between idle and 4K it was STILL pouring thick white smoke, so I took it for a drive to get her to stop smoking! New Cat going in Friday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 with seafoam you're just supposed to maintain an above idle rpm, I usually stick it around 2000 or 2500. But a drive does the trick too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 you sea foamed your engine. well, you either fixed it, or finished it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzker Posted March 9, 2011 Author Share Posted March 9, 2011 you sea foamed your engine. well, you either fixed it, or finished it. It runs allot nicer now, the place I notice improvement most is my acceleration. I find it easier to accelerate, like the truck has more pep to it, and its nice and smooth!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 It runs allot nicer now, the place I notice improvement most is my acceleration. I find it easier to accelerate, like the truck has more pep to it, and its nice and smooth!! thats good to hear. from what i have heard and seen, using sea foam is a 50/50.. fix it or ruin it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehuntersam Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 thats good to hear. from what i have heard and seen, using sea foam is a 50/50.. fix it or ruin it. Is that only on the old vg30I's? or are you saying any motor in general... I've used it once on my old vg30, Didn't blow that much white smoke but it still ran great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 I seafoamed mine once, all it did was make him smoke worse for a couple weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 all engines. there is no difference between the vg30i and the vg30e, except induction, flow rating in the heads and timing belt. they are the same engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 (edited) I have also heard some pretty nasty things about sea foam. I had issues passing smog on my 88' before i registered it in HI and don't have to do it anymore. What i did to pass is this: -get a bottle of guarantee to pass stuff -fill up to 3/4 with 92 octane and mix in Emmisions pass stuff, drive till on E -put 1/4 tank 92 Octane -Drive on HWY so Cat is super hot as it does nothing unless at operating temperature -Go take test this worked for me in Seattle Good luck Edited March 17, 2011 by Mauitrailguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porsche4786 Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 I've heard a couple different things people have done to pass. First one was to put some moth balls in the gas tank and go thru DEQ. The other was to take a wet towel, and stuff it around the outside (if I remember correctly) of your air filter, and go thru (do this right before you go thru). But I haven't had any experience with these methods. Luckily, the only car I've had to take thru is my rx-7, and it's passed without problems, except for being too loud once. It's actually registered to my parents (don't want to pay the $200+ to switch it over to my name), and now their residence is away from DEQ, so I just mail in a check and they mail me my tags. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 with the HC and NO so far out of spec you have a dead cat. When the vehicle is good and warmed up I would bet there is no water coming out of the tailpipe either, another sign of a dead cat. When doing your emissions test have only 87 octane gas in the fuel tank, no injector cleaner or other stuff. Run the vehicle at sustained highways speed to get it up to normal operating temp before taking in ot be checked. Make sure your ignition timing is correct. If it is off you will have too much NO or HC depending on how far off you are. If you have an automatic make sure to check in withthe vehicle in neutral not park. Make sure also you O2 sensor and engine temperature sensor are in good working order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauitrailguy Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 87 octance is dirty, can cause knock in you engine and leaves behind alot more carbon. I always use 89 for daily use. I use 92 when I go wheeling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzker Posted April 9, 2011 Author Share Posted April 9, 2011 Drive clean is a stupid bitch. New Scores: I have a brand new cat, brand new O2, used exhaust with no leaks, new air filter, and a seafoam job done since the last test, and I did much better this time, but idle CO% is still wayy too high. Any ideas, anyone?! What it may be, what may fix it, any tips or ticks to get it to pass, fake e-test, ANYTHING?! Im sooo frustrated with this truck and its E-TEST!! Why couldn't it be an 87?!?! Anyone have a full set of vin plates for an 87?! Thanks in advance for any help guys, everything is appreciated!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 Well, your emissions results aren't great in general. You almost failed HC on the driving part too. CO I think, is caused by too much fuel. Some ideas: PCV valve stuck? maybe really badly worn piston rings? injection leak? saturated evap canister? And of course, anything causing your fuel/air mixture to be rich. Often this could be the O2 sensor but you fixed that. Do you have an ECU diagnostic mode that checks the mixture? My 91 does... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted April 16, 2011 Share Posted April 16, 2011 (edited) The high CO2 at idle is from a vacuum leak or EGR valve stuck open from carbon clogging or internal rust on the shaft inside the valve. I would check/replace all the vacuum hoses in the engine bay. Bulk hose at any auto parts store is cheap. The high CO2 means the fuel and air ratio is off at idle and you are having incomplete combustion or burning of the air/fuel mixture. Edited April 16, 2011 by Alkorahil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trogdor Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 I had the same problem make sure that all of your vacuum lines are connected <--Redundant sorrybut super important. I replaced a A/B (Is this the same as the PCV?) valve that sits on the front of your air box its a got a couple of hoses connected to it and then to the air box. I did all that you did in the post and that stupid valve worked for me. Hope this helps. if not sorry. Best of luck getting to pass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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