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leaking oil after oil change 95 3L v6


Eviltwin
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I'm not new to changing oil. Or mechanicals of anysort, but this has me stumped.

 

Changed oil on my 95 pathy, replaced with mobil 1 synthetic 10w30,with quaker state oil filter. New oil pan plug aswell.

It seems to be dripping ever so slightly when parked.

I even went to the effort of draining oil, and tossing on a new oil filter as maybe I damaged the gasket on the first.

 

Same thing. I'm stumped! She's never leaked anything before...help!

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Mine seems to be leaking from my brand new sensor unfortunately. Not sure what to do other that tighten it more. I have the correct 1/8" BSPT fitting...

 

The other thing though, is that whenever I change my oil, despite all my attempts, it seems that some fairly large amount of oil comes out of the filter and drips down essentially through my starter and onto the ground. Even wiping off as much as I can it takes a while for it to all "settle down" and stop dripping off the bottom...

Edited by sewebster
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I'm not new to changing oil. Or mechanicals of anysort, but this has me stumped.

 

Changed oil on my 95 pathy, replaced with mobil 1 synthetic 10w30,with quaker state oil filter. New oil pan plug aswell.

It seems to be dripping ever so slightly when parked.

I even went to the effort of draining oil, and tossing on a new oil filter as maybe I damaged the gasket on the first.

 

Same thing. I'm stumped! She's never leaked anything before...help!

You sure its not just residual drips after the mess the oil filter makes? Mine does that sometimes but it stops shortly after I change the oil.

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Mine seems to be leaking from my brand new sensor unfortunately. Not sure what to do other that tighten it more. I have the correct 1/8" BSPT fitting...

 

The other thing though, is that whenever I change my oil, despite all my attempts, it seems that some fairly large amount of oil comes out of the filter and drips down essentially through my starter and onto the ground. Even wiping off as much as I can it takes a while for it to all "settle down" and stop dripping off the bottom...

 

you could put teflon tape on the plug threads... right?

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Oil PS sensor just aft of the filter. Sometimes they get loose and other times they just wear out and leak thru the plug.

x6 or so. Check that first...

 

Thing about doing that is that the sensor needs to be grounded and the tape would insulate the sensor from the block right?

No, the teflon tape just seals the gaps in the threads. As long as it is applied and torqued correctly, there is plenty of metal to metal contact for conductivity.

 

B

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The other thing though, is that whenever I change my oil, despite all my attempts, it seems that some fairly large amount of oil comes out of the filter and drips down essentially through my starter and onto the ground. Even wiping off as much as I can it takes a while for it to all "settle down" and stop dripping off the bottom...

 

This is the biggest reason why I installed a remote Oil filter. And also why I will be doing it again on my wifes 94.

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This is the biggest reason why I installed a remote Oil filter. And also why I will be doing it again on my wifes 94.

 

What kit did you use? I'll have to do this too at some point, because it just seems ridiculous the way it is right now. I wonder what the dealership does, if anything, to avoid oil going everywhere...

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What kit did you use? I'll have to do this too at some point, because it just seems ridiculous the way it is right now. I wonder what the dealership does, if anything, to avoid oil going everywhere...

Rags, lots and lots of rags, lol.

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What kit did you use? I'll have to do this too at some point, because it just seems ridiculous the way it is right now. I wonder what the dealership does, if anything, to avoid oil going everywhere...

I used a pos cast aluminum kit from the former shucks auto.

I've had a few freinds use various cast kits and it seems 50/50 shot of having some issue. Nothing major just annoyances...

 

Go with one of the Billet aluminum kits from summit, you can run barb fittings or have threaded hoses made to fit. Best of all the billet material has fewer imperfections and won't crack or break when your trying to wrench it in a tight spot.

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I have to say, I have two of the POS cast aluminum adapters on my truck and other than being fairly cheaply made, the threads and sealing surface are machined and perfectly suitable. I have no problem with sealing or cracks, etc. If you are on a budget, the cast units should work for you too. :shrug:

 

B

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I've had a few freinds use various cast kits and it seems 50/50 shot of having some issue. Nothing major just annoyances...

I have to say, I have two of the POS cast aluminum adapters on my truck and other than being fairly cheaply made, the threads and sealing surface are machined and perfectly suitable. I have no problem with sealing or cracks, etc. If you are on a budget, the cast units should work for you too. shrug.gif

Oh certainly, the cast units will work. I just don't recomend the one I got because my case was worse than any others I seen and I prefer the Billet ones.

 

The one I had didn't have any areas machined out or enginered into the casting for tooling so when it was as tight as I could get it by hand and still dripped(Oring was oiled and had not torn) I grabbed one of the webbs with a wrench to put another 1/4 turn on it and the web snapped right off and a hairline crack appeared following one of the casting seams That was a no go for me and more webbs broke trying to remove it to replace it...

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  • 1 month later...

Sometimes switching to s full synthetic on a higher mile engine can cause leaks that weren't there with conventional oil.

 

This is what's happened here with my '94SE. Motor's @ 170,00 + and I just tried running synthetic 5W-30 after moving to the Great White North after having run 20W- 50 pretty much the whole life of the vehicle in the Deep Hot South. I'm also getting continuous valve "ticking". Under the vehicle it looks like I'm leaking from both the FMS and RMS. Although not much.

 

So I'm wondering what the best course of action would be here.

 

Guess I'll go back to 20W-50 and see what happens because I'm not too thrilled about the prospect of pulling engine to replace seals, inspect valve train,etc.

 

As for the future it seems like buying a used low mileage motor might be a better deal than rebuilding this one.

 

Whadda y'all think ?

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Front main seal is easy, you can do that one while you do the timing belt job. The rear you gotta pull the tranny. I would try some lucas oil additive and see if that quiets it down a bit and slows/stops the leak.

 

At 170,000 miles the engine is just broken in!

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