snoob Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 I picked up all the parts to do front wheel bearings but as I read the how to it seems i should change the seals, That makes sense becuze bad seals could be the reson there so worn,I was just wondering if anyone has done this job and how long should it take me and is there any thing else that needs replaced while I have the wheels apart ,I know I need manual hubs Still, I did get break pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 The bearings, the races, and the seals. That's about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Moving this to the R50 section, where it will get more attention Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoob Posted June 14, 2010 Author Share Posted June 14, 2010 (edited) i got all teh parts and iam going to take some pics and do it as soon as i get a day off work Edited June 14, 2010 by snoob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maikan Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 Good idea for the write-up,I have to do this too but there is not a lot of info about it. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonb Posted July 29, 2010 Share Posted July 29, 2010 how many miles you got? i've never replaced my bearings (only greased when doing pads). i'm at 184k now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAXEDpath Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 post pics and full write up plz so I can see if I need to do it to mine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuffPath Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 Do the wheel bearings need to be pressed in our trucks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuffPath Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Daaaang! This forum sucks. No replies in two days. Hard to believe no one has done their own wheel bearings. Common guys... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilside180sx Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Yes, you'll need a press to be able to install the wheel bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzy Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 mmm... I disagree. I have done the wheel bearings without a press. I believe there is a how to thread... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuffPath Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Thanks for the reply. Are you sure? I thought I would just need to remove the grease seal and exchange it for a new one. Can someone who has Haynes manual scan and email me the procedure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzy Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=11266 Buffpath, what you are saying sounds right to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuffPath Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Thanks Pezzy! That's what I thought too. Hey, you are pretty close to me. Always wanted to visit Toronto. Is your truck forest green? Can't tell from the pics on my phone. Mine is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzy Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Yeah, dark green, sometimes mistaken for black, sometimes matte brown. We head down to Buffalo every now and then for the Olive Garden! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAXEDpath Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 (edited) Why do all ya guys/gals have to live so far away!! For reals I sware most of the people on here on from Canada...... and thanks for the link Pezzy Edited August 15, 2010 by MAXEDpath Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skulptr Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 well i have my bearings out right now, my bearings and races are fine, just need new seals. i'm going to pick those up (and some pancakes), i'll snap some pics and post em up, if you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panbacca Posted August 17, 2010 Share Posted August 17, 2010 well i have my bearings out right now, my bearings and races are fine, just need new seals. i'm going to pick those up (and some pancakes), i'll snap some pics and post em up, if you want. Please do post any pictures of the process. I've read the how-to and am ready to do mine soon for the first time, along with my rotors and pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAXEDpath Posted August 17, 2010 Share Posted August 17, 2010 yes plz post pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skulptr Posted August 18, 2010 Share Posted August 18, 2010 (edited) ok so i forgot to take pictures of putting everything back together, but i do have some pictures. don't know what good it will do. i'll just do a run up putting it back together i guess.. clean the hub, thread, and retainer groove with brake cleaner. check and clean your races, feel them for any grooves. if its still smooth, you're good to go. to remove the races, use a socket and dead blow hammer to drive them out their respective sides, and reverse to install new ones. clean the groove between the races, and repack with grease until its flush between the 2 races. recommend cleaning the abs sensor and grooves while you have it out. lug side brake side before greasing the bearings, place pressure in random places and roll the bearings, feeling for grooves, flat spots, and other wear. when packing with grease, place grease in your palm, and work it into the gap in each side of each bearing, turning the bearing as you go to work it into the spaces between the rollers. once they are packed, place the rear (larger) bearing inside the hub, packing some extra grease in behind it. rear, left. front, right. always get new grease/oil seals for the rear. cost $11 at napa. i drove it in using a rubber mallet. do not use metal, it will just chew it up. once the seal is placed, bolt the brake disc back to the hub, and put the hub back over the spindle until it stops. new grease seal clean up the retainer nut and ring, remove any burrs (mine had a few). place the outer bearing inside, pack some grease around it, and thread the nut on until it stops. there is a tool for tightening these down and checking their torque, but i cant seem to find a picture of one. i just used a 4 lug axle socket and snapped off 2 of the notches. i do not have the torque specs with me, but i will have them tomorrow when i get my write out from all-data. replace at least the inner o-ring on the drive flange (or manual hub), i found them at napa and paid $3 for a pair of them. the ring should snap over, and fit in the groove. i will also have the exact size and thickness tomorrow as well. pack the inner of the flange, where its smooth and shiny with grease, and place some (not much) on the rough section, and a light coat on the inner o-ring. place for flange nuts back on, torque them down, and put the rest back together. Edited August 18, 2010 by skulptr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted August 18, 2010 Share Posted August 18, 2010 Super write up...I just did this too! One thing to pay close attention to putting it back together is to make sure that your outter bearing is pushed far enough in. I like to use the 4wd bearing lock ring tool and a rubber mallet to push the outter bearing in before you try to sping that lock ring on...otherwise you may spin for days before those fine threads catch anything. In addition, if you haven't owned the vehicle since new, wathch out for cross threading on this...it could cost you a new spindle. The lock ring will not cross thread itself, just the spindle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skulptr Posted August 18, 2010 Share Posted August 18, 2010 (edited) i just pushed it in by hand until a quarter inch of threads were showing. you'll know its threaded if it runs in and out on the threads freely, with very very very little effort to turn it, being sure to push and pull on the hub to see where it was sitting before tightening it down, if it moves, the bearings aren't set yet Edited August 18, 2010 by skulptr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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