jasonb

If a QD32ETI could be sourced, that would be quite interesting. but it appears maybe not so easy... So i'm thinking of selling the pf and sourcing a toyota chassis with a broken motor on craigslist and putting a cummins isb 3.9 in it 170hp 420ft/lb ftw is that just wrong?

in for a project using the original nissan truck motor - rb26

any reason you can't just press the old bushing out? (i haz neighbors )

appologies for thread hogging, but i gots lots of questions for my own education, do you think the td27 would be suitable for towing? my only reference point is wife's vw jetti tdi with a 2liter. it makes more peak torque than the vg33, but almost none just off idle. i still occasionally stall the car when the aircon is on. seems just about useless for towing. for this reason (no power out of boost) i was shying away from the td27. this looks very interesting. i wonder if there anybody in north america which knows these motors?

in for details on the QD32ETI and isuzu. (in particular, i'm after something suitable for towing). i'm thinking the TD27 maybe too small. 400+ ft/lb ftw EDIT: Isuzu iirc makes a cummins 4bt equiv called a 4BD1T & the followon 4BD2T. is that the isuzu you saw swap kit for? that would be awesome.

i'm sorry guys, i think i'm spreading misinformation at least wrt to california laws. i don't think the 4bt was ever used in california in the same emissions class as what the pathfinder is in. looking at http://www.dieselnet.com/standards/us/ld.php it looks like pathfinder is LLDT (< 6000 gvwr) so legally speaking, i'm not sure what would be valid diesel donor. help

agreed, its tricky to navigate the rules here. in practice, (and i'm still learning), it looks like there is a big difference in the way pre-1998 and 1998+ diesels are handled. the rules you cited apply to pre-1998 vehicles, but i don't think dmv checks your swap (except to verify you actually did a swap perhaps), and there is no regular emissions test. for 1998+, dmv checks, you have a regular smog check, and from what i've gathered, you need to have working odb interface. it wouldn't surprise me at all if the pre-1998 gradually get more scrutiny in near future, so ymmv. my pf is a '96, so i'm still thinkin'

got this back from soshinusa.com:

'95 m3 '73 2002tii '00 323i '90 240sx '10 jetta tdi wagon '92 miata w/ sr20det power (giving total of 2.5 nissans) only one i have pic for is miata

i'm thinking exactly same thing as OP. i like the size and utility of my pf, but would like a diesel. i'm towing quite a bit and the gas mileage is killing me. little more torque for hills would be good too, there is one hill in particular which i just barely barely make in 2nd gear. i'm in california, so that 4bt idea is very interesting as i need to figure out if i can legally do a nissan diesel swap. i found an outfit here which has a nissan diesel listed though http://www.stcengines.com/products/details/?p=1 so i'm going to ask them. for emissions, the 4bt should be no problem though so i've gone and signed up at http://www.4btswaps.com to read through the transmission/tc options. subscribed and interested what y'all find out.

as i understand it the zerk is to grease the steel ball inside of the housing. i guess the poly bushing material on the outside keeps most of the grease from coming out but not 100% i'm sure there is somebody more knowledgable than myself who can explain...

$150 is cheap! includes labor and parts to run pipe down to the end? heres the one i was lookn at http://www.amazon.com/MagnaFlow-12568-Satin-Stainless-Muffler/dp/B000CCDNUK

sorry to hear about that as it sounds hard to fix right. let us know what happens. i'll be sure to take some care when removing the bolt. on another topic, i received my lower links. can't wait to get these installed. if i was death wobble i'd start runnin now i went hunting around and i think i figured out where they came from. military salvage for m1 abrams

i was planning on opening that puppy up when i got like 700lb of weight in the back

i took my '96 w/ rusted out exhaust to local shop for estimate. i want a nice stainless system. was quoted 1200ish. its high, but he does amazing work. so i changed mind and i'm gonna pie cut and tig one together. at least thats the plan. i wonder if veilside180 thinks it'll work out

That Titan idea is interesting. Let me know what you find out wrt titan fitment and maybe i'll switch to that instead of the wd21. i agree, a proportioning valve shouldn't be hard to put. just need to find a place where the hard lines are joined where you can fit one in.

I was pretty unhappy with the braking performance of my '96 until recently. it didn't seem like the rear brakes were doing much of anything and the front napa pads were doing kind of a poor job. So i got new but cheap front rotors and rear drums. I wanted a little more braking from the back so i found porterfield R4S shoes for R50 (horsepowerfreaks carries) for $78. I have this compound on my M3 and they are quite good street pad. I then called up Hawk for advice on the fronts and they said their high performance street compound or the light truck compound would be a good choice. They said the R4S compound is slightly more aggressive and would shift braking balance slightly towards rear. this is what i was after so i went with HPS front pads (LTS was sold out at the time). (I believe LTS is a little more aggressive than HPS). I installed the HPS fronts first and braking improved. Then i put the rears and it further improved by a noticeable amount. So it is worthwhile to watch which compound you put in back. now i am planning on going to rear disc in back and selling my drum setup. IMO put your money in the pads. the rotors are all the same unless you start warping them. if they warp, upgrade from chinese blanks to brembo blanks and your good. i have seen arguments for slotted rotors that they help with evacuating the gas from the pads. in my experience, if your pads are outgassing enough for that to make a difference, you are using them outside of their designed temp range and you should change pads.

my $.02 on the slot/drill thing: if they are not suitable for track then they are not a performance upgrade. they are an aesthetic upgrade only imo. from tirerack.com: IMPORTANT REMINDER: Slotted, drilled or dimpled rotors offered as OEM replacements should not be considered appropriate for high-speed track use. While grooved, drilled and slotted rotors offer an enhanced appearance and add some resistance to the boundary layer of gasses that can build up between the pad and rotor, they are not designed to withstand the extreme temperatures that are produced on the racetrack. If they are used on the track, it is very important that the rotors be carefully inspected and should not be driven on if even minor signs of deterioration are seen. Note, too, that if any products are used on the track they are not warrantable. EDIT: found a neat pic on cobalt friction web site (I just ordered XR3's for my miata). This is probably not a cross drilled rotor

my chiltons lists balljoint to lower control arm nut as 76-94ftlb when i did mine i torqued it to 76 and then drove around a bit. then torqued it again to middle of the range and then put the cotter pin in.

I'm gonna have quite a pile of parts to install pretty soon to freshen up the rear. I got lower ruggedrocks lower links and new springs and bushings. I also got backing plates, axles, and brake hardware from junk yard 94. incidentally, it was an auto with rear disc. (why should a 94 auto have disc, but it wasn't an option on my 96 5speed SE? go figure). my plan is to make some garage space and take everything apart. i'll check out the brake hard lines and ebrake cables first. if i was smart i would have taken pictures at the junk yard so i could post side-by-sides... oh well. i'm figuring worst case for brake lines is to get some straight line stock at local auto parts store and bend it to fit. ebrake maybe slightly more pita as i think the r50 ebrake is routed different.

hmm... i guess i could see where nissan doesn't want ppl pulling 4200+5000 lbs through the clutch. i can tell you that i've pulled between 4000 and 4500 lbs off and on since the truck was a puppy (3mo old) and haven't noticed any ill effects. the only chronic problems i've had are the rear axle seals and suspension bushings. i know what i'm going to do on the tow capacity. i'll take a measurement of braking distance/time of my truck by itself and pulling a loaded trailer w/ and w/o trailer brakes. then i'll swap to rear disc and measure that.

did you swap discs on r50? how did the ebrake workout? if you had a pic of the brake hardline routing i'd like to see that too. thanks!

i read someplace that towing capacity of r50 is different between auto trans and manual. is that true? whats the rational? as an aside, is there any interest in a writeup for 7plug trailer connector on r50? (or am i the only freak)

thanks everybody for the ideas. i have two pieces of info to fill out the puzzle: 1) the long pedal lasted several hundred miles over several days. pedal wasn't squishy, just longer and less linear braking response (like you get when the rear brake shoes need adjustment). 2) driving around town today i noticed the brake response was back to the original good feel at the start of the road trip. i haven't changed anything. weird. lucky for me i only changed the rears before the trip. the fronts were broken in, so it wasn't dangerous per se. oh, i just had an idea. i should pull the drums and make sure there isn't oil on the shoes again. (i just had the axle seal replaced few days before the trip because of this problem). i'm thinking that could possibly account for this if oil got on the shoes, then got burned off again.

appologies for thread jacking, but this is great info. how did you know you needed to replace upper links again? this is something i've been mulling. how important are the upper links to suspension geometry? is most of the work done by the lower links, or both? i think our experiences are quite similar. i did my bushings in spring 2002 after experiencing quite scary death sway during a road trip to navajo reservation. also did front ball joints, axles and put koni shocks in front struts and rancho shocks in rear. i have to say i much prefer the koni shocks to the rancho. this time i want to fix it and have it stay fixed.