ac92pathfinder Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 i bought a used tire and when i was tightening it i broke one of the wheel stud. how hard is it to replace them in the front? i didnt bother takeing the wheel back off i got discusted. anyway with one wheel stud i know this is a stupid question but is it ok to drive for now? im hopeing it will be fixed by saturday cause i need it sunday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 I've seen people drive with less. 1 busted off a 6 lug truck ain't "that" bad. I've seen people drive 4 lug cars around with a total of 7 on them... Yea 7... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavefromOZ Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 I have a buddy who is driving around with 4 studs on 1 wheel, I keep shaking my head in horror, but he hasnt had any problem, and he wheels it pretty damn hard. Should certainly be 'safe' to drive, but dont ignore the fact that its missing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 You gotta take the wheel hub off of the knuckle and take the rotor off of the hub so you can pound out the studs. Basically like doing a front brake job but one step further. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ac92pathfinder Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 (edited) i park on the side of the street and its on the passenger side. anyone know how long it would take to do and what tools i need? i basicly have just normal tools. i guess i didnt know my own strength with the cross bar. hell if i can twist off the little socket on the cross bar... but i minus well do all the studs then. thanks for all your replies Edited March 23, 2010 by ac92pathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 You will need snap ring pliers, a philips screw driver for the bearing lock nut plate, socket set. 6mm allen key to remove the auto hub as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ac92pathfinder Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 doesnt sound too bad then. all i really need is the snap ring tool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94pathfinder Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 honestly dude, i can rip each side of my truck down to the hubs and rotors off in less that 30 minutes, it's not hard at all. press the old stud out, and well if you're doing one, then do them all at least on that wheel. re pack the bearings, and put it back together. shouldn't take more then i'd say 3 hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbdevega Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 IF your gona replace one stud you should replace them all. usually when one stud breaks off another is not far behind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 I bought my old Pathfinder with a missing stud on the passenger front, never had a problem with it and it was airborne quite a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ac92pathfinder Posted March 24, 2010 Author Share Posted March 24, 2010 ya i pretty much wanna replace all 6 im gonna be moveing either this year or next yr hopefully. i hate to drive 1k miles with out that one stud lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbdevega Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 Also note that if you lose 2 studs its no biggy on a 6 lug...but if you lose 2 studs that are next to each other, then chances of the other lugs failing is greatly increased. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chymos Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 (edited) I don't know about the 4wd hubs, but on my 2wd it wasn't that hard (had to replace 3 on the front and 1 on the back). You have to separate the rotor from the hub in order to do it. First take the caliper and bracket off. Then you have to remove the 6 14mm bolts holding the hub and rotor together. Use some penetrating oil such as PB Blaster where the rotor and hub meet and let that sit for a few minutes to an hour so it'll separate slightly easier. Then you just have to tap on the rotor with a rubber mallet. (If you don't have a mallet, place a block of wood against the rotor and hit the wood. The wood will protect the rotor from being damaged by the hammer.) Once the rotor's separated, tap the broken stud out with a hammer and slip the new one into place. The best way to seat the new stud is to slip several washers over it and use a lug nut to pull it through until it's fully seated. Once that's done all you have to do is reattach the rotor and put the caliper and bracket back on. (Unless of course, you're servicing the wheel bearings or replacing the rotors (which I did) at the same time.) There you have it. edit: I forgot about the dust shield behind the front rotors. Post corrected accordingly Edited April 13, 2010 by Chymos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 I'm pretty much in the same boat here - lost a front stud getting the wheel off. I plan to replace all mine once I have the chance... though I don't have a press... or snap-ring pliars... or anything really... lol... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chymos Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 (edited) I'm pretty much in the same boat here - lost a front stud getting the wheel off. I plan to replace all mine once I have the chance... though I don't have a press... or snap-ring pliars... or anything really... lol... You shouldn't need a press. Just a small section of a 2x4 board and a hammer. As for snap-ring pliers, they're not too expensive (even if you get Craftsman ones). If it's 2wd, you'll need a special socket (a 'wheel bearing locknut socket'. I'm not sure if you need it for 4wd Pathys). The cheapest place to find it is on ebay. I paid about $20 for mine. Parts stores around here don't carry the right one. They have 4-prong ones, but what you'd need is a 2-prong one. One that fits Honda will work fine. Here's a link to the socket: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Front-Wheel-Bearing-LockNut-Socket-NISSAN-HONDA-JEEP_W0QQitemZ320493756683QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Automotive_Tools?hash=item4a9eeaa10b edit: Keep in mind that if you ford anything deep enough for the water to reach the hubs, you need to repack your wheel bearings ASAP afterwards just in case water gets into the hub/spindle assembly. Edited April 13, 2010 by Chymos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 Or for 13 bucks here: http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_4170.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 Mine doesn't have the locking Lugnuts thank god... just normal ones Or are you talking about for the studs themselves? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daver123 Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 I got one lug missing on both sides in the rear, been that way for a year and no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now