Tranny Drain And Fill

[Dasanii19]

I'm at 108,000 miles and my tranny fluid is pretty dirty. My question is, what are the pros and cons of a drain and fill? Today I noticed my pathfinder not shifting into over drive. What I notice is, while going 85mph up a slight grade I am at 4500 RPM and it wont shift into OD until I sorta let up off the gas petal. Im hoping a drain and fill will eliminate this issue. Other then this, it shifts like it suppose to.

 

 

Your thoughts please.

 

Thx!

 

P.S, Should I go with what the ATF that is suggested out of my Haynes manual or something else? Do I need to buy any special tool to get the ATF inside the tranny?

[vanuatoo]

It's bad that fluid is dirty.

 

There are 2 methods for changing tranny fluid.

 

1. drain and refill

 

From factory manual

 

1. Warm up A/T fluid.

2. Stop engine.

3. Drain A/T fluid from drain plug and refill with new A/T fluid.

Always refill same volume with drained fluid.

 

Fluid grade:

Nissan Matic “D” (Continental U.S. and Alaska) or

Canada NISSAN Automatic Transmission Fluid.

 

You can also use Dexron III but I would definitely go with Genuine Nissan Matic D.

 

4. Run engine at idle speed for five minutes.

5. Check fluid level and condition. Refer to MA-23, “Checking A/T

Fluid”. If fluid is still dirty, repeat steps 2 through 5.

 

2. Flush

 

This method requires a special machine that circulates new fluid through the transmission lines and ultimately pushes old fluid out of the transmission.

This video demonstrates how it works.

 

I've read somewhere that if the transmission is damaged (I don't know if your case qualifies) flush may finish off the transmission and this method is not recommended.

If your fluid is pretty dirty it means that the drain and refill method will require several steps to clean it, because this method only replaces third of the fluid at a time.

 

I would do the drain and refill and if I notice that tranny works better, repeat the steps to replace as much fluid as I can.

[Dasanii19]

It's bad that fluid is dirty.

 

There are 2 methods for changing tranny fluid.

 

1. drain and refill

 

From factory manual

 

1. Warm up A/T fluid.

2. Stop engine.

3. Drain A/T fluid from drain plug and refill with new A/T fluid.

Always refill same volume with drained fluid.

 

Fluid grade:

Nissan Matic “D” (Continental U.S. and Alaska) or

Canada NISSAN Automatic Transmission Fluid.

 

You can also use Dexron III but I would definitely go with Genuine Nissan Matic D.

 

4. Run engine at idle speed for five minutes.

5. Check fluid level and condition. Refer to MA-23, “Checking A/T

Fluid”. If fluid is still dirty, repeat steps 2 through 5.

 

2. Flush

 

This method requires a special machine that circulates new fluid through the transmission lines and ultimately pushes old fluid out of the transmission.

This video demonstrates how it works.

 

I've read somewhere that if the transmission is damaged (I don't know if your case qualifies) flush may finish off the transmission and this method is not recommended.

If your fluid is pretty dirty it means that the drain and refill method will require several steps to clean it, because this method only replaces third of the fluid at a time.

 

I would do the drain and refill and if I notice that tranny works better, repeat the steps to replace as much fluid as I can.

 

 

Thanks man, thats what I sorta planned on doing. My tranny fluid isnt black, I dont know why I said that. It still has a clear tone to it, so im thinking the previous owners possibly did do a flush sometime during the 7 years. I dont think it would hurt to do a drain and fill a few times. But the question still stands, how do I put ATF into the transmission?

[fleurys]

Thanks man, thats what I sorta planned on doing. My tranny fluid isnt black, I dont know why I said that. It still has a clear tone to it, so im thinking the previous owners possibly did do a flush sometime during the 7 years. I dont think it would hurt to do a drain and fill a few times. But the question still stands, how do I put ATF into the transmission?

 

 

you will put the atf oil back in the trans using a small funnel that fits in the place where the dipstick was. This is how you put back trans oil in the transmission.

 

S.

[Dasanii19]

you will put the atf oil back in the trans using a small funnel that fits in the place where the dipstick was. This is how you put back trans oil in the transmission.

 

S.

 

 

Thats how I always did it, but The Nissan guy was saying somthing about adding it from the side of the tranny.

[BowTied]

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID

TEMPERATURE CONDITIONS FOR CHECKING

The fluid level should be checked using the HOT range (L & H marks) on the dipstick at fluid temperatures between 122 and 176°F (50 and 80°C) after the vehicle has been driven approximately 5 minutes in urban areas after the engine is warmed up. The level can be checked at fluid temperatures between 86 and 122°F (30 and 50°C) using the COLD range on the dipstick for reference, after the engine is warmed up but before driving. However, the fluid level must be rechecked using the HOT range.

1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and set the parking brake.

2. Start the engine and then move the selector lever through each gear range, ending in P.

3. Check the fluid level with the engine idling.

4. Expand the spring stopper and remove the dipstick. Wipe it clean with lint-free paper.

5. Re-insert the dipstick into the charging pipe as far as it will go.

6. Remove the dipstick and note the reading. If the level is on the low side of either range, add fluid to the charging pipe.

7. When inserting the dipstick, set it so that the spring stopper presses the upper part of the dipstick rubber to lock the dipstick.

 

Charging pipe = dipstick tube

Edited February 17, 2010 by BowTied

[96path4x4]

Charging pipe = dipstick tube

I don't know if this helps, but I have about 134k on mine and I have changed it twice so far. Both times, I used Valvoline High Mileage Dexron III and not the Nissan D Matic. Truck is running great, no issues.

[XPLORx4]

Today I noticed my pathfinder not shifting into over drive. What I notice is, while going 85mph up a slight grade I am at 4500 RPM and it wont shift into OD until I sorta let up off the gas petal.

 

Well I guess you should consider yourself fortunate! My Pathy won't even go 85mph up a slight grade! LOL.

 

I'm not really surprised that at that speed your tranny won't shift into OD. The engine (even your VQ35 with more HP than my VG33) is working really hard to overcome drag at that speed, and it just does not have enough power at lower RPM to maintain that speed while also ascending a grade.

 

Nevertheless, a fluid change is a good idea. Just don't be disappointed when you find out that replacing the ATF does not achieve the expected results above.

[EmptyV]

Here's a "How To:" I put up on NICOClub.com for replacing your trans fluid, filter and gasket.

 

So here's a quick "How To:" for changing out the transmission fluid, filter and pan gasket for an 01 2WD auto.

 

Tools:

 

19mm Socket

10mm Socket

Ratchet

Torque Wrench

Rags

Pan for Catching Oil

Mechanic's Dolly

Pneumatic Ratchet(for quick disassembly but not necessary)

 

Parts:

7+ Quarts of Trans Oil, I used Royal Purple Max ATF

Filter

Pan Gasket

Self Sealing Pan Bolts

 

Step 1: Remove drain Plug and let the majority of the oil drain into pan.

Step 2: Remove the 2 10mm middle front bolts that are secured 2 lines to the pan.

Step 3: Remove all other bolts except for the one in the opposite corner of the drain plug. Loosen that last one so the pan will tilt towards the drain plug and the last of the oil will be flow out.

Step 4: Remove that last bolt and drop the Pan

Step 5: Clean the pan of all remaining oil and any traces of the old gasket, I used brake cleaner to cut the oil

Step 6: Reinstall the drain plus with 22-25ftlbs of torque

Step 7: Remove the magnet from the pan and clean off any metal shrapnel. Mine was shrapnel free :naughty

Step 8: Remove the 4 bolts holding up the old filter

Step 9: Install the new filter(not sure on torque specs) and make sure it's got the o-ring

Step 10: Install the newly cleaned pan with the new gasket with the new pan gasket self sealing bolts

Step 11: Add the same amount of oil that was drained, this is done through the tube that the dipstick slides into

Step 12: Start the vehicle, set the parking brake and rev it to a high idle(do not race) for a short time

Step 13: With the parking brake applied, shift through all of the gears and rev around 2000-2500RPM

Step 14: Set trans back into park and let it sit at a normal idle for a few minutes

Step 15: Check fluid level and add if needed.

Step 16: Check over the next few days for leaks around the pan and fluid level.

 

After doing this I noticed a massive improvement in the smoothness of shifting. I highly recommend using a set of ramps. I bought some used ones off of ebay and just sanded them down and painted them. These made life much easier. I also used TransTune by SeaFoam as a trans treatment before performing this. I'm not sure if it helped but it sure didn't hurt. If I've forgotten something please let me know and I'll adjust.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Filter and Pan Gasket

 

Edited March 25, 2010 by EmptyV

[EmptyV]

New Filter o-ring

 

 

Drain Plug

 

 

 

 

 

[EmptyV]

Magnet

 

 

Old Filter

 

 

4 Bolts that hold the filter in place

 

 

Without Filter

 

 

New Filter

 

 

Filler Tube located on the passenger side of the engine

 

[vanuatoo]

I'm going to just remove drain plug, drain the fluid and add the same amount through the dipstick hole.

 

Can anyone tell me what is the approximate amount that will be drained?

I know that most of the fluid will stay in torque converter.

I know that 8.5 liters is needed for flush.

Without removing torque converter will it be more than 4 quarts?

[sonyslave]

Thanks EmptyV, pics def. help. Trans filter is on my to-do list.

[01silvapathy]

I did this yesterday, only probelms I encountered was with a little pipe that runs in front of the pan, it makes it hard to get a ratchet in there, but its do able. Also do not over tighten the bolts, I managed to break one off while re installing. It does not leak now, but I will be repairing it when im back home.

[fritz007]

what was the cost on filter/fluid and how long did it take i am looking at doing this to mine before another summer of boat hauling

[01silvapathy]

what was the cost on filter/fluid and how long did it take i am looking at doing this to mine before another summer of boat hauling

 

 

I got the filter and gasket in a package at autozone for 20 bucks, and used 4 quarts of Valvoline High Mileage 75k plus atf fluid at 4.99 a quart. So it was around 40 to 50 bucks. It took me about an hour of solid work to get it done. Also dont forget a can of brake cleaner, once you take off the pan there will a layer of thicker gunk on the bottom and once you spray it with brake cleaner it just comes right off, and a can of the stuff is like 3 bucks at most. Good luck man. Dont over tighten the bolts tho, they break trust me

[maikan]

What are the benefit of changing the trans filter vs just changing the fluid?

[fleurys]

What are the benefit of changing the trans filter vs just changing the fluid?

 

well, like any filter..over time it gets filled with clutch plates material and will eventually not do it,s job as well as when it's new...

[maikan]

So at the oil change I just check if the fluid is dirty and if it is (having metal shaving in it )

 

I do a oil filter change too ??

[JUDGE]

So at the oil change I just check if the fluid is dirty and if it is (having metal shaving in it )

 

I do a oil filter change too ??

 

 

I changed my filter when changing the fluid. For me, it's peace of mind knowing it's been replaced.

[01silvapathy]

I changed my filter when changing the fluid. For me, it's peace of mind knowing it's been replaced.

 

Uhhhh Greeeed

[fleurys]

So at the oil change I just check if the fluid is dirty and if it is (having metal shaving in it )

 

I do a oil filter change too ??

 

If you have metal shavings in your trans oil, you have a bigger problem... personally i change my trans oil twice a year (beginning and end of trail season). some might say it is overkill, but for me it's cheap insurance for a critical mechanical part like this. For the filter, I go with every 50000km to 80000km... considering my oil is almost always new, It works for me.

[adamzan]

I changed my filter when changing the fluid. For me, it's peace of mind knowing it's been replaced.

X2 it is so cheap you may as well do it. Don't listen to those people who tell you clean it. Considering a brand spankin new one is 15-30 bucks depending where you are.

[maikan]

Yeah your right,

 

I spent over 600 for tires

maybe will spend a thousand for a lift

 

So i will not play it greedy and change the whole thing.

 

Don't want to be like the Quebec government, building a bridge with the cheapest material possible.

Edited March 31, 2010 by maikan