JUDGE

I hope you remembered to add a bottle of LSD lubricant to the rear diff before filling it with gear oil.

Until you install the other warn keep the one you have on locked and all should be fine. When installing mine I double stacked the nuts to tighten the studs. I didn't measure the force just went with feel. I used lock-tite as well. Maybe some are not the same lenght because they're not tight enough. HTH!

I assumed that was the reason, between me and the fuel tank being on that side it would make sense. I just wanted to know if anybody else had the same issue. Thanks!

I notice my passenger side top out more than the driver. Does anyone else have the same scenario?

Nice

I changed my filter when changing the fluid. For me, it's peace of mind knowing it's been replaced.

I used a screw driver and a hammer. I hit the flange in different spots to shock it and then tapped it out with the screw driver to separate it from the hub. HTH!

Welcome to the club! Regarding your hard starts: I would also recommend changing your fuel filter. Before changing mine my truck took (in my opinion) too many turns to fire, after the new filter it fires right up. I think a full tune up would be a good idea aswell, your truck will run better and you'll have the peace of mind knowing when it was last done. Best of luck!

Looks good! I can't wait to put my lift in, just waitin' on warm weather.

There's an info plate inside the engine bay, on the passanger side I believe, that has your gear ratio etc.

That's the route I'd like to go.

X3 For me if there's snow on the roads it's in 4WD, especially when I'm driving on the highway. Glad you made out ok.

The wood trim around the vents pops off first, then you remove two screws at the top of the centre console wood trim and pull the rest of it off. I found out how here, http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/, under idx.pdf. HTH!

That's exactly what they do. When your done in 4x4 you need to drive in reverse for about ten feet to release them.

You should measure how much the axles stick out from the hubs (with the auto-hub and drive flange off) on both trucks. If both stick out the same amount I would imagine the auto-hubs would work fine.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=829 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19755

Nice FJ, Pathy looks good to!

Why replace the hatch? The only thing that brings the hatch into play is the license plate, it will have to be relocated as the carrier will cover it. Your mods will be to the corner and the bumper cladding, none to the hatch.

I agree with BowTied, it's perfect time to re-grease your bearings. It's also a good time to check your CV boots for cracks and wear, getting the axles off isn't much more work from that point.

Those are some nice! What's the gap between them and the doors when they're opening? Looks pretty tight.

I picked one up from a '96 for my '97 LE and the carrier itself lines up no problem. The issue is the bumper cladding, it needs to be changed to one that had a carrier or it needs to be cut up to allow access for the latch and stricker plate.

Glad to hear, been following waiting for some resolve. P.S. Speaking of stealership, local dealer wanted $40 + tax for 4 trailing arm bolts. Got grade8 hardware elsewhere for $3.