Tungsten Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 Well I have had a new timing belt since the summer of 2009 and along with that new cam seals and a new rear main seal. The engine was always well on schedule with the oil changes but the oils have been different (they were all 5W-30 as far as I know). Last time I put in regular Mobil high mileage oil, the 5W-30 kind as recommended by the manual. I have no problem with buying synthetic I just want the engine running smoothly but have heard that there are drawbacks to using synthetic. I do get the occasional lifter tick on cold starts since the engine has so many miles on it already. So what is the best oil to use on this rig? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 Most people here recommend running Mobil 1 synthetic. 5w-30 works just fine, although some people do run 10w-30. The concern on older vehicles is that it will start leaks as it tends to clean up deposits in the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 For what its worth I put synthetic in my pathy at 125k miles and it had the original (as far as I know) cam/crank/rear main seals and it didn't leak and still isn't, knock on wood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 screw synthetic. to expensive. If your changing your oil every 3k miles, don't bother for 3 times the cost. 365k on mine and still run dino I run valvoline or napa or carquest oil. Its all made by valvoline. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 (edited) screw synthetic. to expensive. If your changing your oil every 3k miles, don't bother for 3 times the cost. 365k on mine and still run dino I run valvoline or napa or carquest oil. Its all made by valvoline. I find my truck starts up way easier with the synthetic...I buy the canadian tire brand anyways. It gets pretty cold here. Edited January 11, 2010 by adamzan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 If your engine isnt a sludge pit with old leaks that have been plugged by carbon and stuff then you fine.If you have seafoamed it before and never had any leaks then I find it really hard to believe that your engine will leak.I ran a sin blend(motor craft 5w-20) for about 1500 miles and I made my gilbert trip with it and it always started fine and I knocked down 23 mpg with it.But after just my gilbert trip(350 miles) the truck had already used a full quirt of oil(burning and leaking from rear main seal)But my engine was never maintain by its prevese owner(s).The leakage and burn off may have been from the 20 weight oil but I'm not sure. But you engine should be fine if its been seafoamed before and never leaked.You will see a little better mpg and less wear(although it will be minimal because of the milage on the engine) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94pathfinder Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 wow 5w-30 huh, i run 20w-50 in mine it runs like a champ, but hey to each his own Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted January 11, 2010 Author Share Posted January 11, 2010 well i'm running brand new seals here so i guess ill try mobil 1 synthetic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 well, if your going to try, make sure and stick with it. I'll try and dig up a photo from my email tomarrow that shows what can happen when you mix sythetic and dino. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 Nothing bad happens,you just need to seafoam the engine to clean it out.I ran Q in my camaro and all that I noticed was the sin oil smoked less.I have since gone back to good ol quker state and yeah it smokes(at start up,it needs valve guides but its a 305 with 250k on a bone stock engine that has never had any major work) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 Nothing bad happens,you just need to seafoam the engine to clean it out.I ran Q in my camaro and all that I noticed was the sin oil smoked less.I have since gone back to good ol quker state and yeah it smokes(at start up,it needs valve guides but its a 305 with 250k on a bone stock engine that has never had any major work) ya, well these guys thought they flushed the system good too.. Hate for this to get stuck in your oil pickup. This was hydrauic oil, but its all the same principle. A customer of ours went form synthetic back to dyno. this is what happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 Damn, that is nasty!! I didn't know that could happen. I have to ask though, how is it that they sell synthetic/dino blend oil?? I have been using it in my pathy for years. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 Damn, that is nasty!! I didn't know that could happen. I have to ask though, how is it that they sell synthetic/dino blend oil?? I have been using it in my pathy for years. B all oils are a coctail. the manufactuer of oils knows exactly what is in each type and can put them together without issue. but i have a real hard iime switchign back an forth. cause this is not the only time i've seen this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted January 12, 2010 Author Share Posted January 12, 2010 OH @!*%!!!!!!!!!!!! what about using AMSOIL?! http://www.synthetic-motor-oil-change-and-filters.com/amsoil_articles/amsoils-big-competitors/ and what to use for oil filter? wix? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 don't have any experience with amsoil. but most definately on the Wix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigsyke Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 (edited) Seafoam is too harsh for inside the crankcase. I always use Marvel Mystery Oil. I run about 1/2qt for 1,500 miles. Positive results from blackstone labs. I Also dont like Wix, they have leaky ADBV, that give you dry starts. I always use the best, PureONE. Everyone Ive used has passed the anti-drainback valve test. Also I use Penzoil Platinum. Synthetic is always better....www.Bobistheoilguy.com. Better add packs, base stocks, VII's, oxidation resistance, fuel dilution resistance, cold flow, flash point, etc. Synthetic - 6k miles or 6months x 2 times a year (3.5qts) $16 for an oil change - Penzoil Platinum $32 a year ($30 if your using Mobil1) Dino - 3k/3mo's x 4 times a year $8.40 for an oil change - PYB or Shell $32 a year Or go big and get the best of the best. Amsoil - 25k miles or 1yr $34 for an oil change $34 a year Oh and not having to remove and clean your PCV valve, thats why I would always run synthetic. I use nothing but amsoil in my racecars. If you want to get detailed, I stimulate the additive package by adding a tablespoon amount of Lubro-Moly MoS2 (not for use in amsoil) Edited January 14, 2010 by bigsyke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Amsoil - 25k miles or 1yr$34 for an oil change $34 a year Perhaps I am talking out of sheer ignorance (old school here) but no way in ()ell would I run an oil for 25k miles. I saw synthetic oil on the shelf, one being 'regular' for $6.5/qt and the other was 'extended mileage' (10k) for $7. WOW!! For an extra 50 cents I get an extra 5k miles per oil change!! What a deal!! Why the ()ell would anyone buy the cheaper stuff. Is this stuff formulated for American cars that aren't meant to run a long time, or is that why the American cars don't run as long. Like I said, this is not my area of expertise but this screams BS to me. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WiredWrong Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 hey 87pathy is the last picture poop ? any rate on all the paths I use 10w 30 but i change both the filter / oil every 2k or less oils oil man only 3 manufacturers all with dif names etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 I can't bite into the synthetic hype, 15/40 and Lucas, keeps my stuff alive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted January 17, 2010 Author Share Posted January 17, 2010 well all oil is synthetic its just that the regular oil is waxy and has bigger molecules than synthetic does right now i'm running that 5000 mile oil from mobil1 which is pretty good (2000 miles and still clean and translucent) i'm thinking about just switching to mobil1 synthetic in my next oil change, i think it would be safe to do it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 Keep in mind the truth behind the 3k oil change. It's really about oil cleanliness. dirty oil will make hydraulic lifters wear faster. This was especially important in maintaining the life of long OHC timing chains(not the vg) example; pathy with frequent negelcted oil changes my develop a lifter tap in 120k or less but a pathy that is changed every 3k or when the oil starts to darken may not devlop a lifter tap until after 220k or more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 well all oil is synthetic its just that the regular oil is waxy and has bigger molecules than synthetic does right now i'm running that 5000 mile oil from mobil1 which is pretty good (2000 miles and still clean and translucent) i'm thinking about just switching to mobil1 synthetic in my next oil change, i think it would be safe to do it I ran mobile 5000 in my pathy from the second oil change on becasue it was the cheapest name brand I found at the time(2.20 a quirt plus a 10percent discount) Its usally black around 3k... Amsoil is worth trying to explane to people that you can believe it,but most people dont. And hydrlic oil is usally non detergent oil,going from a sin oil back to a none detergent oil will cause that snot build up... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 does hydraulic oil have the same polymer consturction that allows for multiple viscocities based on temperature? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 no you ever seen a multigrade hyd oil? but hydraulic oil will generally take temperature better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now