513mugsy914 Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 Alright, you guys seem to know what your talking about in here. So I have a 96 pathfinder, 4wd, auto, 3.3L V6, 171K on the odo. The problem that I am having is that the thing spudders out and dies in Rev and Drive. But will idle just fine in Neutral and Park. I have read the codes from the ECU and they are the O2 sensors and "P1401". So I called the dealer...one thing led to another...they told me after hooking up to it that the distributor was bad, and the O2 sensors needed to be replaced. Well I towed it home and did all the work myself (I did not know I was double jointed until the drivers side O2 before the cat!) along with plugs (NGK Platinum gapped to 0.044") and wires. Started just fine, idled just fine, shifted into drive and 8-10 seconds later it died. Does not matter if it is hot or cold, or it the motor is hot or cold. Please advise on what you may think the problem is. Autozone told me that the P1401 code is for a faulity EGR valve tempature sensor. But the Haynes manual says that the ECU would not throw out a code for that sensor since it does not talk to it. I hate just throwing money at a problem until it is fixed...esepcially in this day and age! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeV Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 P1401 EGR Temp Sensor I wouldn't trust the Haynes manual for the issue. Best to replace the temp sensor and reset your codes. If that doesn't work jump back into this thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
513mugsy914 Posted October 28, 2009 Author Share Posted October 28, 2009 Thanks for your thoughts....anybody else want to say something before I go and give autozone $175 for a new sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoPathyGo Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 Keep the receipt ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 Thanks for your thoughts....anybody else want to say something before I go and give autozone $175 for a new sensor? Yes, talk to Alkorahil (Rob Lacy) who runs an on line factory nissan/dealership parts store. Great guy with great prices!! Look in the Classifieds/Services section for his contact info. Lookie here, $96+ shipping... http://www.factorynissanparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214081&chapter=§ionids=2,2496&groupid=20050&subgroupid=61847&make=25&model=Pathfinder&year=1996&catalogid=1&displayCatalogid=0 (looks like you'll have to look it up yourself) Feel free to send the difference to me... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 The sensor may not be your problem, as it would not cause the engine to sputter as you stated. What would cause the code to come up and creat the sputtering, is the EGR valve itself. See if its stuck open by pushing up on the diaphram with you fingers(not too hard now). If it doesnt move much, remove the vacuum hose to it and blow air into the valve to push it back down. If that works, try and start it and see if it idles better. You may just have a EGR valve that is weak. It would of also thrown the O2 sensor codes as it would of thrown off the air/fuel mixture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
513mugsy914 Posted November 9, 2009 Author Share Posted November 9, 2009 So I finally got the ERG Temp sensor, modified a deep socket at work, and cleared the codes! Put the sensor in and still have the same problem. The engine does not smell like extra fuel when it stops...so it is not flooding out. I checked the ERG valve, ERG backpressure transducer, ERG soleniod, and all vacume lines to and fro. Checked all the vacume lines around on the intake manifold. I ran it for twenty minutes be for trying to move it around in Rev/Dr and still have the same issue. Runs like a champ in Park/Nuetral. I am at a lost here... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 Almost sounds like it might be a torque converter issue, since it dies in a drive gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 uhh i know chevy trucks do that and the cause for that are broken timing gears Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
513mugsy914 Posted November 30, 2009 Author Share Posted November 30, 2009 Ok...so here is the list of parts that I have thrown at this thing and still have the same problem. Fuel filter, MAP sensor, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, new dizzy with new cap and rotor, EGR temp sensor. Still have no codes, so I have removed the intake system and throughly cleaned and hottanked it at work. In the process of gathering up all of the gaskets and 6 NEW INJECTORS!! COUGH COUGH! Hopefully this will get this thing running again!? Also going to put on new valve cover gaskets, PVC valve, and thermostat while I am there. I am not going to tear this thing down again. This will be the last thing that I do to it. If this does not fix it is going up for sale. I will post when I get it all back together later this week. Any ideas would be great... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4X4pathy94 Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 mb try the maf sensor try cleaning it first there is thread on here when they show how to clean it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 What happens if you put it in gear and then give it gas will it still die? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
513mugsy914 Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 What happens if you put it in gear and then give it gas will it still die? Yes it still dies with no / part / full throttle. This is turning into a restoration project instead of a repair job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sencaw Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Yes it still dies with no / part / full throttle. This is turning into a restoration project instead of a repair job! when you put it in gear, does it grab hard / normal as it dies ...? or... does it die as you drop into gear? when in park or neutral - can you rev it up, does it run normal? i would quit throwing parts at it, pretty obvious that aint fixing it. probably other stuff you wanted to spend your money on - pita that's for sure I had a truck a while back.. not a pathy.. it had a bad safety switch thing on the trans that made it do that same thing - (the thing that keeps you from cranking up in gear). I did that same thing as you trying to fix it and I wasn't even close to the problem.. literally probly not the help your looking for, just my Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
513mugsy914 Posted December 2, 2009 Author Share Posted December 2, 2009 Well I will update later when I have installed all of the new and newly refurbished parts. I am also putting new injectors. The old ones looked all rusty colored and did not look like they should go back in. Lets hope this works.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeV Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 My 95 did that when the o2 sensor went bad (I know you don't have the code) but I could idle it all day but it would move maybe a foot sputtering when I would put it in drive. (I know yours has like 3 or 40(4) of them) I'm not sure how to check them as I replace them (but replacing 1 is cheap) 4 not so cheap. Hopefully someone will chime in with a how to check them. Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Maybe this helps with checking the O2 sensor?? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24592 B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
513mugsy914 Posted December 8, 2009 Author Share Posted December 8, 2009 Alrighty, so I took off the intake manifold and fuel rail...replaced the injectors, FPR, and all of the vacum lines. Also while I was there also did the thermostat, lower hoses and the bypass hose. Started it up, smoked out the neighbors and bled out the coolant system. Ran fine for about 15 minutes while letting it idle in the drive way. Got in it to take it down the street and it did the same thing as before. Idles like a race motor now with the new and improved tune up, but it still dies in drive or reverse. This thing is killing me...any ideas other than what I have replaced so far. Here is the list: -plugs, wires, cap, rotor, dizzy, -fuel filter, 6 injectors, FPR, blew out the fuel lines from and returning to the tank -MAF sensor, EGR temp sensor, 4 new O2 sensors -replaced all vacum lines, and all coolant hoses, -hot tanked the intake system, throttle body, and cleared all vacum ports, If you can't come up with anything else, would anyone like to buy this thing just for the parts? If so LMK I am located on the Northside of Cincinnati, OH. HELP!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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